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Old 11-19-2020, 11:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IceLion View Post
[
I believe its 500 fps/1.5 joules
That's weird, 500 FPS with a .20g BB is actually 2.32J exactly.

As for the G-spec VS standard, totally get the G-spec as it's quieter and exactly the same besides that.
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Old 11-19-2020, 02:35 PM   #17
IceLion   IceLion is offline
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Originally Posted by SiliconeSword View Post
That's weird, 500 FPS with a .20g BB is actually 2.32J exactly.

As for the G-spec VS standard, totally get the G-spec as it's quieter and exactly the same besides that.
Disregard - I was looking at the AEG numbers. I corrected my post - it is in fact 2.3J
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Old 11-20-2020, 12:10 PM   #18
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Q: I think I am looking at the JG Bar 10. I see it has two flavors, the normal and the "GSPEC" which seems to have a shorter barrel. Which is the preferred model to get? From what I am reading it's pretty much a wash performance wise but the bolt on the GSPEC is preferable?
Correct. The bolt handle is much more comfortable when using a scope with normal height scope rings.

2.3J will be too much for stock 45deg sears and piston of the VSR system. It may run for a bit but one of those two will fail pretty quickly. I have found I can get around 1-2k round running the stock 45 sears and pistons at 1.3-1.5 J. Miliage does vary a lot though. Long and short, you will need 90deg trigger setup for the vsr if you plan on running over 1.5J for very long.

I have not tried running the sr-2 at those levels (I need to try it sometime) but I would think it would last longer than a stock vsr.

Edit:
Another great budget option especially running at higher powers like 2.3+J is the A&K M24. I do not have any experience with them other than my research. They have stock steel 90 trigger and piston. Seems like you could get one of these to perform really well reliably and cheaply all stock parts. I do not know how importing would go (probably your main issues with most of these options) as I know Canada has some weird gun laws.

Edit2:
After really thinking about it a lot, I would say the A&K m24 is the best budget option for builds over 2J
https://www.evike.com/products/62969/

Last edited by Jbrinker1; 11-23-2020 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 11-23-2020, 11:37 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbrinker1 View Post
Correct. The bolt handle is much more comfortable when using a scope with normal height scope rings.

2.3J will be too much for stock 45deg sears and piston of the VSR system. It may run for a bit but one of those two will fail pretty quickly. I have found I can get around 1-2k round running the stock 45 sears and pistons at 1.3-1.5 J. Miliage does vary a lot though. Long and short, you will need 90deg trigger setup for the vsr if you plan on running over 1.5J for very long.

I have not tried running the sr-2 at those levels (I need to try it sometime) but I would think it would last longer than a stock vsr.

Edit:
Another great budget option especially running at higher powers like 2.3+J is the A&K M24. I do not have any experience with them other than my research. They have stock steel 90 trigger and piston. Seems like you could get one of these to perform really well reliably and cheaply all stock parts. I do not know how importing would go (probably your main issues with most of these options) as I know Canada has some weird gun laws.

Edit2:
After really thinking about it a lot, I would say the A&K m24 is the best budget option for builds over 2J
https://www.evike.com/products/62969/
Apologies in advance - this is all new to me - I know very little about internals stuff.

Dumb Q1: The "degree" stuff refers to the hardness of the part yes? I stumbled across this when I was looking into buckings. Is this the same idea?

Dumb Q2: Do I need to push the max joules my field allows? What would be the con of running the lower joules.

That gun shows as exportable to Canada, but for various reasons I think I am going to stick to Canadian vendors.
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Old 11-23-2020, 01:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
Dumb Q1: The "degree" stuff refers to the hardness of the part yes? I stumbled across this when I was looking into buckings. Is this the same idea?
The simple answer: yes basically. 40d softer than 80d. Most on here go for around 60d as the softness provides enough "tack" but still pretty durable.
Quote:
Dumb Q2: Do I need to push the max joules my field allows? What would be the con of running the lower joules.
You by no means need to push the limits to have a playable weapon. Cons are you may loose a little range. It will not be any more "acurate/precise". It really depends on how you play and the field you play in. If you can only take 60yd shots (due to field size or max line-of-sight), not much difference between a 1.5J build and 2.3J build except time-to-target and the "ouchie effect". In my experience (which there are many on here who have a lot more) there is not a "huge" range difference within .4 joule (say 450 to 500) and even less if you do not have the access to heavy ammo to support the power (say shooting .25g at 2.3J does not increase range much from 1.8J and is not even noticeable). Now if you have the heavy ammo to support the high power, you will see a small difference. If you are within .2J, you will probably not even notice. As a sniper with a bolt action, every little last bit helps to keep up with the AEGs especially if the aeg limit is close. So some questions for you, what is the AEG limits and is there a lot of shot opportunities over 60yds?

Also it really doesn't have to "make sense". It is airsoft, a game. I like playing with my bolt action just because I like playing with my bolt action even though it is not the most effective weapon choice in parts of the field I play in. I will even run a 1.1J bolt action sometimes because it is really accurate, quiet, and really close MED even though the AEG limit is 1.5J. Doesn't make sense but it sure is a ton of fun when you pop someone in the back pocket close range and they don't know where it came from.
Now if you are playing a role on serious team, then the story changes a little.

By all means, buying as local as you can is awesome. You may contact them directly and see what they can order in for you.

Last edited by Jbrinker1; 11-23-2020 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 11-23-2020, 03:09 PM   #21
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The degree stuff has 2 meanings.
In buckings it stands for durometer shore hardness, but in triggers it means the angle at which the piston catch is set.
A 90° trigger will have the piston catch going straight up while a 45° trigger will have it set back at a 45 degree angle.

For power, if your gun is upgraded to last, then I would say push the field limit, but if your gun is stock then I'd say leave it at that power until you replace the trigger and piston and maybe other parts.
Doesn't always apply to some guns, but for the most part it does.
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We all know the guy that says he can split an atom, at 420 feet, with 1J, in the dark, and handcuffs, with a Prometheus widebore, Prowin chamber, a 25mm ER-hop, and a VFC body……………

Where you can see my projects and other cool stuff
https://www.instagram.com/silicone_sword/
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Last edited by SiliconeSword; 11-23-2020 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 11-23-2020, 07:02 PM   #22
 
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If your new to airsoft, I wouldnt push your power to the max. I watched a new sniper with an SSG10 wreck a regular with a 3.6J/.43g at 15ft with a headshot this weekend. I almost shot some dipshit kid in the back of the head when he walked in front of me right before I pulled the trigger. He was less then 5ft. Good thing I have better situational awareness then most and better trigger control... (think my vsr has a .5lb trigger pull, its silly light.)

I did kinda loose my shit a little and said something to him as soon as he did.
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Old Yesterday, 12:55 PM   #23
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These are some good points. With power comes responsibility (Ice being a 52yo dad he know what that is way more than me LOL). Now there are a lot of dad's I run into that do not realize the power these things can have and just look at all airsoft guns as toys. The worst feeling in airsoft is accidentally hurting someone. I guess that is why I like running a low power build sometimes is I can play aggressive with out that responsibility. Kinda like those old back yard "clearsoft" games. Had a blast with that! So before you actually play, shoot some things close range and see the power these things got. Have some one shoot you at a reasonable range. Decide from there.
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Old Yesterday, 01:00 PM   #24
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I have this app that will tell you the joules of a BB at different ranges and I base my MED from where the BB is exactly 1J.
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We all know the guy that says he can split an atom, at 420 feet, with 1J, in the dark, and handcuffs, with a Prometheus widebore, Prowin chamber, a 25mm ER-hop, and a VFC body……………

Where you can see my projects and other cool stuff
https://www.instagram.com/silicone_sword/
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Old Today, 09:25 AM   #25
IceLion   IceLion is offline
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Originally Posted by Jbrinker1 View Post
The simple answer: yes basically. 40d softer than 80d. Most on here go for around 60d as the softness provides enough "tack" but still pretty durable.

You by no means need to push the limits to have a playable weapon. Cons are you may loose a little range. It will not be any more "acurate/precise". It really depends on how you play and the field you play in. If you can only take 60yd shots (due to field size or max line-of-sight), not much difference between a 1.5J build and 2.3J build except time-to-target and the "ouchie effect". In my experience (which there are many on here who have a lot more) there is not a "huge" range difference within .4 joule (say 450 to 500) and even less if you do not have the access to heavy ammo to support the power (say shooting .25g at 2.3J does not increase range much from 1.8J and is not even noticeable). Now if you have the heavy ammo to support the high power, you will see a small difference. If you are within .2J, you will probably not even notice. As a sniper with a bolt action, every little last bit helps to keep up with the AEGs especially if the aeg limit is close..
Thanks for the info !!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbrinker1 View Post
So some questions for you, what is the AEG limits and is there a lot of shot opportunities over 60yds?
Here is a copy paste from the rules doc:

AEG's & sidearms 1.5 Joules
DMR's 1.9 Joules w/ 50 ft. MED
Bolt action 2.3 Joules w/100ft. MED
DMR and Bolt must carry a sidearm for engagement under the Minimum Engagement Distance.
Rate of fire (ROF); maximum ROF for guns intending to utilise full auto will be 30RPS.

I wouldnt say there is likely a LOT of opportunities over 60m no. A lot of the play is in wooded areas with a few open areas (container lot, open field).
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Old Today, 09:26 AM   #26
IceLion   IceLion is offline
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Originally Posted by SiliconeSword View Post
I have this app that will tell you the joules of a BB at different ranges and I base my MED from where the BB is exactly 1J.
Nabbed that - pretty neat!
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Old Today, 12:50 PM   #27
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AEG's & sidearms 1.5 Joules
DMR's 1.9 Joules w/ 50 ft. MED
Bolt action 2.3 Joules w/100ft. MED
DMR and Bolt must carry a sidearm for engagement under the Minimum Engagement Distance.
Rate of fire (ROF); maximum ROF for guns intending to utilise full auto will be 30RPS.

I wouldnt say there is likely a LOT of opportunities over 60m no. A lot of the play is in wooded areas with a few open areas (container lot, open field).
With this info, to me what would make the most sense is to run a DMR. If you still would like to run a bolt action, I would make sure you are running at (might be nice for the shorter MED) or over 1.9J as you want at least some advantage over the DMRs. Doesn't sound completely necessary to hit the 2.3J cap. One positive thing for the BASR is that your field is wooded so I would assume good cover for concealment in which case the quietness of the BASR will come in handy if you are the sneaky/ambush type player.
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