VSR-10/BAR-10 1-piece upper mod - Airsoft Sniper Forum
       

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Old 02-15-2018, 04:45 PM   #1
Laoban   Laoban is offline
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VSR-10/BAR-10 1-piece upper mod

Heavily inspired by Reliku's project and of course the legendary VSR-X by Careful, I decided to give the 1-piece upper mod a try myself.

Reality, unfortunately, collided with my ideas head-on, as I am not in the possession of a lathe or mill. I work in the IT business so I also don't have either of them readily available to me. I am, however, fortunate enough to have a 3D printer, so this is the direction I followed for my 1-piece upper.

It al starts with selecting the right material. For the outer barrel I chose aluminum with a 30mm OD and 27mm ID. This size combines stiffness, a light weight and convenient dimensions to perform this mod. Luckily I have a supplier nearby to help me with this.

The next part was to design a substitute for the receiver. I'd like to call this the interface between the stock, outer barrel and the trigger unit.




Well, that seems to fit nicely so let's continue.

The outer barrel in its unspoiled state doesn't contain holes (well, other than at the start and end, smart asses ;-)) so some work is needed there. Since precision is key, I decided to make a "template" to help me with placing the holes in the right place. Also if I'd like to make more of these units (one to go with my longer barrel for example, or for people who'd like one) this'll save me a lot of time.



These holes don't really need to have a perfect finish, they just need to be in the right place (I did clean them up afterwards).

I also printed a matching sleeve for the cylinder to replace those small rings. It supports the cylinder quite well and makes bolt pull easy.


So, let's trial-fit all this stuff and see if it works as nicely as intended:


We're off to a good start! This means we can add some extra thingies, a rail and a TDC mod.

This isn't "Skeee's TDC mod", I found a TDC mod on Thingiverse and modified it to suit my needs (easy adjustment, possible with gloves on). It works really well and is one of my preffered upgrades. I glued everything with 2K epoxy glue, and plenty of it. The interface between barrel and stock was covered in glue on the inside, so it'll hold until forever.

I absolutely love the silver color of this outer barrel, but it does stick out like a sore thumb when trying to hide in the bushes. A can of paint can solve this problem for me. So, Paint It Black!


All dried:

(note the AA hop-up, AA teflon cylinder and a 3d-printed spare hop-up block in the back)

Spacers are also something worth having, so I designed and made some too. I went for a design which would fit well in the outer barrel, the "tentacles" can bend a little to assure there's no wobble anywhere (some people might use an O-ring for this).


So, time to put everything together and judge the result

(I also printed a scope protection/anti-reflection cover)


One thing I didn't photograph well enough is the slot for the bolt handle. I added a small slope there, so the further down the handle goes, the further it presses the nozzle in to the bucking, which could be quite beneficial for the air-seal.

This version would fit anything up to a G-spec inner barrel (I shortened an old barrel I had to 285mm), I'm currently making one to go with my 550mm inner barrel.

update
Probably not worthy of it's own topic, I'll just place it here: my side arm.

I won't bore you with the whole "how I made it", so here it is:


It's an M4 pistol, shoots at 360FPS and accepts nearly all M4 upgrades on the market. The inner barrel is about 15cm long, the "silencer" part contains the lipo. I sized it so that I can use the lipo's I use in my AUG. I also added a magwell grip. Holsters are a problem with these guns, so I designed my own holster and it works really well. The only thing I'd change is the containment ring at the bottom, I'd make it a bit bigger to simplify drawing the pistol. Other than that, it's a pretty neat gimmick to have in the field.
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Last edited by Laoban; 02-15-2018 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Side arm
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:52 PM   #2
Reliku   Reliku is offline
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Nice, nice, very nicely done! Looks really good! A bit more complicated than just milling it out of a chunk of metal but the important things are there: receiver (with scope) and barrel out of a solid piece :)

How well does the plastic (in which the trigger is screwed) hold up? Curious about that since PLA or ABS or whatever you printed in isn't as strong as aluminium, after all. But if it holds up then I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

Also, how did you attach the scope rail?

Looking great, really creative approach, I like it!
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:44 AM   #3
Laoban   Laoban is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reliku View Post
Nice, nice, very nicely done! Looks really good! A bit more complicated than just milling it out of a chunk of metal but the important things are there: receiver (with scope) and barrel out of a solid piece :)

How well does the plastic (in which the trigger is screwed) hold up? Curious about that since PLA or ABS or whatever you printed in isn't as strong as aluminium, after all. But if it holds up then I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

Also, how did you attach the scope rail?

Looking great, really creative approach, I like it!
Thanks! Well, the PLA is holding up nicely. I think I could get away with screwing directly into the PLA, but I chose to glue m3 and m5 nuts in place, I'm worried that otherwise frequent disassembly will eventually ruin the holes. Having those nuts in place eliminates that problem.

The rail and TDC mod are both also glued with 2k Epoxy. With a tensile strength of at least 100kg/cm2 that means that the rail can also withstand quite a bit of force.
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Old 02-16-2018, 08:14 AM   #4
Reliku   Reliku is offline
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I think nuts are mandatory. While my own VSR-R still works fine with the original threads tapped into aluminium, my customers tend to break them by overtightening quite a lot. That's the reason I use replaceable nuts as well now

Glue, alright. If you used the right epoxy it can be very strong. Personally I prefer threads and bolts there, but again, as long as it works I see no problem there :)

Really like it! Let us know how the field test goes
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Old 02-20-2018, 02:00 PM   #5
Laoban   Laoban is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reliku View Post
I think nuts are mandatory. While my own VSR-R still works fine with the original threads tapped into aluminium, my customers tend to break them by overtightening quite a lot. That's the reason I use replaceable nuts as well now

Glue, alright. If you used the right epoxy it can be very strong. Personally I prefer threads and bolts there, but again, as long as it works I see no problem there :)

Really like it! Let us know how the field test goes
Field tests have been planned! First will be on the 17th of March, if it performs well it'll get a 2-day test a week later. Pretty excited about it as I am combining it with a set of other tweaks (heavier piston, shortened inner barrel, softer ML bucking).

I do have a lot of confidence in the glue I've used, as it should be very strong. With the rail there wasn't really a sturdy alternative, the material would be too thin to firmly screw in the bolts, this is where your solution with thicker material has a clear advantage.
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Old 02-23-2018, 02:40 AM   #6
Laoban   Laoban is offline
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Yesterday (luckily) I discovered a flaw in the design while attempting to install a high power spring and different piston: there's too much material between the trigger unit and the piston, with my AA piston everything works well, but with a different piston (which seemingly is just a fraction of a millimeter smaller), the gun slam-fires.

So, I guess I was literally operating on the edge there. Whilst removing material to close the gap a little, it became apparent that the nuts to retain the trigger unit eventually didn't have enough material left beneath them to keep the trigger unit in place.

While this is a bit of a setback I am not that easily defeated. I'll go back to the drawing board (well, the 3d model) and change the design a little to decrease the amount of material. If the gap would be too small, it could always be fixed by using shims.

The downside of this all, is that unless I can find a way to cleanly get off the 3d printed parts, I'll need to order (and wait for) new aluminum tubes.
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Old 02-18-2019, 01:13 PM   #7
Young Gun
 
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Hi! do you have the 3D projects for the m4 pistol and the holster? many thanks!
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Old 11-06-2019, 08:39 AM   #8
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This is a great mod, I've sent a PM as i'd love to do the same.
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Old Today, 12:55 AM   #9
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Can you post the files?(on thingiverse maybe) I would love to try this out!
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