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Old 04-15-2019, 03:58 PM   #3451
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In the meantime, let's do a little gear grinding of our own...let's discuss false truth in advertising. So, a guy wants my EBR for a nifty ZB30, that's fine. Grills me with all kinds of questions...FPS, effective range, all that good stuff. I video the gun firing and show the results just like Redwolf, but further targets. He asks me the range of the EBR to which I proudly respond 225+, staying conservative but confident he'll fall on his donkey when he fires it for real (it's further than 225).

Then get this...'well that's not very far'. EXSQUEEZE ME? So, I ask him..what's the range on the ZB? 'Oh, at least 450 feet'...to which I respond, is it a .22LR? 'No', he answers (not knowing what 22LR is obviously), 'I run .2's in it.'

THAT'S IT! I lose my lid...I said rather pointedly, 450 actual feet?..and are you aware that a .2g BB can't do that? Ever? Unless you mail it to yourself? Hence, his story starts to fall apart miserably. Never actually chrono'd, there may be a problem with the barrel staying on, he's never actually gamed it, he plays CQB...and so on, and so on, and so on...finishing with, I'll have to drive the 100 miles (each way) to go pick it up because he doesn't have a car and can't meet me in the middle.

SERIOUSLY?!?!?! Stop...get out of the hobby...the Golden Arches are calling and you're just about the right IQ for making fries.

FFWD to today...another ad we've been watching for a hi capa. Not selling, so the price has been dropping and the fps is going up! Now it's up to 500 fps and in mint condition and could probably blow a hole in the rad of an oncoming Jeep. bawwwhaaahaa...kidding about the mint condition.

Anyhew, for the dude selling the ZB30, mysteriously his ad has disappeared. Perhaps it was the lengthy lecture on BS claims and if he's going to try and screw someone, HAVE THE DAMNED FACTS STRAIGHT. bawwwhaaahaaa...oh, and get a job and buy a car...before you dump a wad on an airsoft gun, P.S., get out of mom's basement too...
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:11 PM   #3452
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyz2285 View Post
If all these were for AEGs, I'd say check your air seal also nozzle slop. From my experience your nozzle is not placing the bb in place nor creating seal with the bucking before piston slams forward.
Or just bad R-hops. Me personally love it, mine perform as well as prommey flat blues if not better while being dirt cheap lol for the price of one bucking I can buy tubes for the patches enough for several life times.
Its in my p* at the moment. I have already fixed my nozzle alignment.

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Originally Posted by Zero Roaster View Post
This is exactly the problem with 'commercial' r hops I've been harping about FOREVER! They figure glue a patch into the hole, charge the big bucks and good to go! NO SIR. It is just not that simple.

In theory, the patch is simple. Glue the side edges, shape it to the barrel, and good to go, right? NOPE! The material matters, it really matters..or it'll end up stopping the BB instead of letting it pass. You can fool with the leading edge of the patch to introduce the BB into the patch with a little less agression. If the patch was trimmed incorrectly, it can act like a brake...in this case which it is. The nub also has to be custom configured in each individual case to get the patch to conform correctly once the pressure is on.

Over the last few years I've had umpteen offers to cut and install patches on a commercial level. No siree! Not a chance in hell. Only because I can't guarantee the rest of the gun will work with it and nobody is willing to spend the coin to have it setup as a complete system. It's just not a drop in part, IMO.

So, editorial aside, you say the BB's are jamming. With the hop assembled, but barrel group out of the gun, when you apply the nub and the patch starts to drop, what do you see when you look into the hop chamber? I bench test every barrel group with a single BB at a time and an air compressor before I ever mount it into a rifle...even pushing the bb through slowly with the hop applied will give you a sense of where the resistance is and how to correct it.
At this point I give absolutely zero fucks to continuing this rhop nonsense. Given the experiences I have had over the past year and a half with this, "nonsense" is me being quite nice about it. At this point, there is not a single person on this planet, alive, dead, or otherwise, that will be able to change my mind. For me, rhoppping is a absolute waste of time and resources, that does not guarantee a performance boost. Those rhops are going to be removed and a solution I know that will work be installed.
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:42 PM   #3453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plazmaburn View Post
Its in my p* at the moment. I have already fixed my nozzle alignment.







At this point I give absolutely zero fucks to continuing this rhop nonsense. Given the experiences I have had over the past year and a half with this, "nonsense" is me being quite nice about it. At this point, there is not a single person on this planet, alive, dead, or otherwise, that will be able to change my mind. For me, rhoppping is a absolute waste of time and resources, that does not guarantee a performance boost. Those rhops are going to be removed and a solution I know that will work be installed.


Understood. It can be enormously frustrating and there are so many variables to it, I agree...if you can find a more viable option thatís cost effective, fill your boots. I admit it, Iím a wingnut. In my case, learning to do an r hop was more of a Mythbusters kind of thing. Plausible, or busted? The theory looks good on paper, but itís a far price from the sketch on the diner napkin to the finished product.

I have learned that it is plausible...and no, even now, it doesnít always work on the first try, or second, and the thing needs to really be tweaked to work (think Italian sports car) but when it does....WOW. Is it really worth the effort? Probably not when thereís easier and far more cost effective solutions. BUT, when itís on....oh my.

The difference between researching it top to bottom and buying it Ďprefabí is the difference between maple syrup made over generations with just the right woods for the boiler and buying it in a can at Walmart. Theyíre both syrup, but....

I donít have a magic pill or secret recipe for hops. I do them one at a time on a case by case basis...and start fresh on the next gun and barrel. From scratch...like itís the first time I ever tried it.

But yeah, for now, step away from the bench!! :)


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Old 04-16-2019, 06:19 AM   #3454
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that's why I alway advice "drop-in bucking" than do R-hop patch for mine customers :3. Less pain for me, hahahha.


Grinds today: realized the aftermarket aeg inner barrel don't have groove long enough to install stock hop-up chamber of S&T m40a3, now have to find the way to extend the groove. Arghh.
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JG BAR-10 G-spec:JJ trigger, PPS cylinder head,Ele m145, ML CJ inner 410mm. ML autobot 80*. ML hop-arm.

ASP SVU : m175 cutted, flat-hop, PDI raven 487mm.
S&T M40A3: m160 spring, steel spring guide, action bearing piston, rubber pad. few DIY.

WELL Mb-08: Stock for now.
SW M107A1: outer shortened.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:19 AM   #3455
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What grinds my gears? Zero always describing these amazing rhop systems & their stellar performance, but then refusing to revival his secrets!

Hahaha I understand where your coming from, not wanting to reveal anything until you are 100% confident with your design, but your killing me man! You have given me the rhop bug, but since I live in an apartment with no where I can safely test, I cant scratch the itch.


But what really grinds my gears is not having a backyard where I can easily test my setups out to +200 feet.


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Old 04-16-2019, 11:27 AM   #3456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmr3 View Post
What grinds my gears? Zero always describing these amazing rhop systems & their stellar performance, but then refusing to revival his secrets!

Hahaha I understand where your coming from, not wanting to reveal anything until you are 100% confident with your design, but your killing me man! You have given me the rhop bug, but since I live in an apartment with no where I can safely test, I cant scratch the itch.


But what really grinds my gears is not having a backyard where I can easily test my setups out to +200 feet.


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Sorry, man...I just want to make sure it’s a consistent lock. But hey, here’s a teaser!!! This is full auto fire from a standing position at the Redwolf distance of 30m on full auto. Any deviation is all me, man. The rifle is spot on... I think we’re getting close...when I can rattle of a 3-4 second burst into a half inch hole, we’re on the mission!!! To be fair, 30m for this gun is a joke. I might try it again this weekend from 70m is the space is free...it won't make much difference in the paper though.





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Old 04-23-2019, 10:54 AM   #3457
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my patient KSC G17 got very weak blow so make gun can cycle to load bb, even replaced piston cup, still not enough , arghhh, I hate KSC glock [email protected]%&*!^&*!%^#


tomorrow will re-up hammer stock spring.
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JG BAR-10 G-spec:JJ trigger, PPS cylinder head,Ele m145, ML CJ inner 410mm. ML autobot 80*. ML hop-arm.

ASP SVU : m175 cutted, flat-hop, PDI raven 487mm.
S&T M40A3: m160 spring, steel spring guide, action bearing piston, rubber pad. few DIY.

WELL Mb-08: Stock for now.
SW M107A1: outer shortened.
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Old 04-23-2019, 11:03 AM   #3458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazuchan View Post
my patient KSC G17 got very weak blow so make gun can cycle to load bb, even replaced piston cup, still not enough , arghhh, I hate KSC glock [email protected]%&*!^&*!%^#


tomorrow will re-up hammer stock spring.
Is it bypassing or is the magazine valve/knocker not working properly?
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Old 04-24-2019, 10:45 AM   #3459
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I think hammer spring will be main reason, since the gun was bought like new condition. But at first time I opened it, the piston cup is frozen and break like a butter.
knocker still in great shape, magazine valve work ok.
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JG BAR-10 G-spec:JJ trigger, PPS cylinder head,Ele m145, ML CJ inner 410mm. ML autobot 80*. ML hop-arm.

ASP SVU : m175 cutted, flat-hop, PDI raven 487mm.
S&T M40A3: m160 spring, steel spring guide, action bearing piston, rubber pad. few DIY.

WELL Mb-08: Stock for now.
SW M107A1: outer shortened.
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Old 04-24-2019, 11:42 AM   #3460
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Oh! It froze and dried out! A lack of oiling. That happens quite a bit in gas guns if you're not careful.
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:44 PM   #3461
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my snipers keep sitting in lockers, so sad. Too busy ...
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JG BAR-10 G-spec:JJ trigger, PPS cylinder head,Ele m145, ML CJ inner 410mm. ML autobot 80*. ML hop-arm.

ASP SVU : m175 cutted, flat-hop, PDI raven 487mm.
S&T M40A3: m160 spring, steel spring guide, action bearing piston, rubber pad. few DIY.

WELL Mb-08: Stock for now.
SW M107A1: outer shortened.
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:51 AM   #3462
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Yes sir....I agree. We moved last fall so now that the snow is gone, the outside house projects start....and my rifles sit. Quietly.


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Old 05-12-2019, 12:47 PM   #3463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plazmaburn View Post
Its in my p* at the moment. I have already fixed my nozzle alignment.



At this point I give absolutely zero fucks to continuing this rhop nonsense. Given the experiences I have had over the past year and a half with this, "nonsense" is me being quite nice about it. At this point, there is not a single person on this planet, alive, dead, or otherwise, that will be able to change my mind. For me, rhoppping is a absolute waste of time and resources, that does not guarantee a performance boost. Those rhops are going to be removed and a solution I know that will work be installed.

I 100% agree that they are overused.
However, they do have their merits.


A: They are easy to install fast for an experienced tech (Someone who has the jigs, tools and experience with rhop in particular). Silicone casting etc
B: They are mega durable if installed correctly.
C: If you are running an AEG (not hpa, not vsr) and shoot 36+, a full contact patch like rhop is deffo good.
D: There are other buckings out there now that will do it, but rhop allows you to use ANY bucking together with it.
eg. i used the truhop bucking a fair amount, which lifts better than even rhop (if you really need to lift .50+ in AEG...), but what could i do if it did not seal well or fit well with the other parts...? Not much really. With Rhop/patch i can use any bucking i want to finetune this.




But for 0.20-0.30 RHOP/wide contact patch is actually a bad thing.
I have done LOADS of testing with this and it's fairly linear response in AEG's.
If you have a 300fps gun it will be OK with 0.25 and rhop. If you increase it to 500fps, it will instantly become mega unstable until you put in a heavy BB so you can put on more hopup effect.


AEG's NEED that pressure lock at the start to shoot consistent!!
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:12 AM   #3464
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sorry off topic, but Jeppe, what fps will suitable for 0.3/0.32 use with R-hop?
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JG BAR-10 G-spec:JJ trigger, PPS cylinder head,Ele m145, ML CJ inner 410mm. ML autobot 80*. ML hop-arm.

ASP SVU : m175 cutted, flat-hop, PDI raven 487mm.
S&T M40A3: m160 spring, steel spring guide, action bearing piston, rubber pad. few DIY.

WELL Mb-08: Stock for now.
SW M107A1: outer shortened.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:35 AM   #3465
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sorry off topic, but Jeppe, what fps will suitable for 0.3/0.32 use with R-hop?
400 is the magic number here. With a .3 anywhere from 390-410 will work. It will depend on what you used for material and what the actual dimension of the patch is, nub profile, etc,etc. But I use .3's exclusively...they're cheap and plentiful in this part of the world, so, we build guns that can handle the 'local' ammo.

I've got it down that no matter which platform (Thompson, GK5C, MP5, M16, BAR, EBR,...whatever), that if I'm firing a .3g BB it will go 'x' distance at 'x' fps. In other words, maximum efficiency for that BB, and everything that happens to the gun is tweaked to go get that number.

For the r hops to work well in my particular setups I need around that 400 fps but a relatively slow rate of fire (10-13 rps) to get optimum results.
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