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Old 04-18-2020, 08:46 AM   #1
lycoris   lycoris is offline
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My Glock18c GBB build

So much free time on this pandemic. Airsoft field closing, no weekends skirmish . So I guess it might be better to share some of my sidearm builds.



Have been testing this glock18c build for 1 year with probably 20000+ shot fired.
So I think it's time to share + I need some help to identify some unknown parts I wish to restock.

This is my current glock18c GBB. (Pls ignore the TTI logo engraving attempted)



It is based on TM G18c plus some commercial custom parts below
- Maple Leaf GBB 150cm GBB barrel
- Maple Leaf Autobot hop rubber
- Salient arms style straight trigger (can't remember manufacturer)
- g18c gbb nozzle from Ace1arms (not sure)
- TM micro pro sight (which I choose because It won't break from being shot)

Compare to the stock one this one improve
  • add around 15Mps (40 Fps) when using HFC134a on 0.2g bb
  • improve accuracy over range
  • probably increase durability a little bit
  • extended barrel but can still fit easily in serpa holster
  • +5 lameness on outer appearance

Now for the crucial part.
I have various 3d printed parts on this gun which I make it myself
1. Non-moveable TDC style hopup adjustment outer barrel (Ordered print with Nylon)



2. Inner barrel locking compensator (Ordered print with Nylon)



3. Custom Slide (Ordered print with HP PA11, Nylon probably work too but with less durability)

All 3D models can be download below
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3lTPDFk1HMm
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bq12vjM4OWW
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aQ22cb4deSD


-- TDC outer barrel --

The TDC outer barrel tightly fit with the maple leaf barrel.
Depend on the 3d printer, you might have to file inside a bit.
The top hole is for the screw adjusting hopup, which rest directly on the center of hopup arm.
The other hole is used to lock the inner barrel to the outer barrel.
Both screw hole are for M3.
There is also a hole for placing M3 nut inside for both screws.

Note that there is no latch for moving the barrel down when the slide move back.
If you want to use this with the normal slide, be sure to cut off the slide top part that block the movement.


-- Mock Compensator --

The mock compensator is there for 2 purposes
1. to prevent the movement of the inner barrel.
2. to conceal the extended inner barrel.

The mock compensator use the 20mm M4 bolt drill through the lower frame metal part to lock itself in (with M4 nut screw hole).
There are also 2 m3 screw holes on the top to increase locking strength on the inner barrel.




Now for the hard part...
Since the compensator is 13mm long. The slideable distance of the top slide is decrease by 13mm.
In order to use shorter slide, I have to grind out 9mm from the metal chassis parts shown in the image below to increase slide movement distance.



-- grinded metal chassis --

for the leftover 4mm I grind out some of the metal plate which block the slide movement as marked in image below.
I also add 1mm rubber for better impact absorption.


-- grinded slide protector --

Grinding that part balanced out the impact to the whole plate and increase lifespan for the plastic slide,
which should be done even you are not doing some strange custom like me.



I have been testing this build for around 1 year and It still work wonder.
In the handgun only game where everyone use 65Mps stock TM pistol, this 80 Mps glock is a huge advantage.(in Japan)
The plastic slide also work better than other metal custom slides, especially in winter.


Now, the main reason I post this is because one of my friend want me to make the same custom for his glock too.
Problem is, the [Ace1Arms G18c GBB nozzle] does not being sale seperately anywhere. I remember that I got it from buying aluminium glock17/18c slide bundle. Maybe It's not ace1arms nozzle? or maybe it is a we style nozzle since the radius of the nozzle is bigger than marui by around 0.5mm.



-- the problem nozzle --

Please help!

PS. feel free to use and edit the 3D model. In case you make a cool one please inform me too!
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Old 04-18-2020, 04:22 PM   #2
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Ahhh.... Is that the carbon fiber reinforced nylon by chance?
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Old 04-19-2020, 05:28 AM   #3
wyz2285   wyz2285 is offline
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That's a very interesting way of attaching the fixed outer barrel to the lower, nice!
I have PA11 slide on my hicapa: https://www.facebook.com/wen.yz.9/vi...07468095959323
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Old 04-19-2020, 07:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lycoris View Post
Maybe It's not ace1arms nozzle? or maybe it is a we style nozzle since the radius of the nozzle is bigger than marui by around 0.5mm.
That nozzle is clearly a WE type, the flat nozzle input is a dead giveaway. And it should be paired with flat gas routes in your magazines.

TM nozzles have curved nozzle input and gas routes.
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Old 04-19-2020, 01:52 PM   #5
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One thing. If you are iterested in high quality 3d prints maybe look into resin printers as they do not leave lines and in my opinion are better for asthetics.


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Old 04-19-2020, 03:11 PM   #6
wyz2285   wyz2285 is offline
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Resin prints are brittle and weak, they might survive as sights and nubs but that's it.
BTW I see light weight BBU is not on the list, please get one before you crack your slide...
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Old 04-19-2020, 04:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyz2285 View Post
Resin prints are brittle and weak, they might survive as sights and nubs but that's it.
BTW I see light weight BBU is not on the list, please get one before you crack your slide...
As far as I know they are far from weak.
I saw a guy test them for strength and they could withstand the torque that audi lug nuts could.

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Old 04-19-2020, 09:28 PM   #8
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Different types of resins have different levels of durability. It's all in the blend/brand you end up using. Siraya Tech Blu is probably what I'd recommend for a durable resin, but that does assume you've got the right printer for it. Anything with a PDMS vat cannot use it, but for the most part, any LCD based resin printer is already using FEP...
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Old 04-20-2020, 04:25 AM   #9
lycoris   lycoris is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri MdP View Post
That nozzle is clearly a WE type, the flat nozzle input is a dead giveaway. And it should be paired with flat gas routes in your magazines.

TM nozzles have curved nozzle input and gas routes.

Thank you for the info. I'll put some order on WE nozzle!


As for the flat input thing, I too though that it will cause problem for TM style magazine, but the benefit is too good for me to avoid testing (+15~20 fps).
I have 3 magazines for this glock still working fine after 1 year of test, so it's ok I guess.
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