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Old 06-06-2014, 11:18 PM   #1
jkwon21   jkwon21 is offline
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WE M14/EBR Comprehensive Review

Real-steel Counterpart


The real M14 is an American, selective-fire automatic rifle manufactured by Springfield Armory. It replaced the M1 Garand during the 1960s as the standard issue infantry rifle. From what I have been able to research, the M14 is now a prohibited firearm for civilians. This is because of the automatic capability of the M14. The M1A is a semi-automatic only version of the original M14 and is a very popular civilian firearm. It has a 22 inch barrel and is chambered for 7.62 X 51 millimeter ammunition. There are many variants of the original M14, most notably the modernized M14 Enhanced Battle Rifle (EBR), which accommodates a shorter 20-inch barrel.

The WE M14

First Impressions


The WE M14 came in a long and simple cardboard box with stickers saying ‘WE M14 Blowback Type” on the corners. The gun is quite heavy, weighing approximately 5 kilograms or 11 pounds. The stock is extremely sturdy and the metal finish on the upper receiver is very smooth. The bolt carrier, when sold in the US, contains no trademarks. I purchased the bolt carrier with trademarks directly from RA-tech; the engraving of the trademarks is quite exquisite. The magazine is a strange, dark green color and weighs a good amount.

Appearances & Functionality

The WE M14 runs on green gas/propane. The gun shoots around 400 FPS with 0.2 gram BB’s. The actual FPS will vary depending on the temperature. The warmer it is, the higher the FPS will probably be.

Upper (Bolt + Hop-up + Barrels)


The upper body mainly consists of the bolt carrier, the bolt carrier and nozzle, the hop-up unit, the charging handle/operating rod, the outer and inner barrels, and the flash hider.


The bolt carrier is made of steel and is very solid. It houses the nozzle as well as the dust cover. The charging handle slides alongside the bolt carrier. The bolt catch rod connects the bolt carrier and charging handle so that every shot causes the two to move simultaneously.


The bolt housing in the United States has no trademarks because it is illegal inside the country. However, you can purchase a trademarked version from RA-Tech’s online website.


The hop-up unit is housed inside a steel compartment that connects to the outer barrel via a tiny grub screw. The hop-up unit is held in place by a tension pin that can be hammered out. The actual hop unit is held together by a single screw.

The original hop-up rubber seems to be quite good, I cannot attest to the quality as I have never really been able to compare it with other rubbers from different brands.

I can say that it does feel nice and supple and seems to be doing the job of putting a good amount of spin on the BB’s. Adjusting the hop-up unit is, however, a pain. In order to adjust it, you have to strip the gun down. This will be shown in the disassembly section.


The outer barrel seems to be made out of steel while the inner barrel is made out of brass. The outer barrel has a 14 millimeter (-) thread. The length of the stock inner barrel is 540 millimeters. The length of the shorter EBR inner barrel is 440 millimeters.


I believe the original barrel has a diameter of 6.03 millimeters but I cannot be sure. So far I have not had a single jam when firing the M14 with the stock inner barrel. I am quite pleased with how it performs. The stock flash hider is attached and secured by a tiny grub screw and a castle nut. The castle nut can prove to be challenging to remove. I ordered a specific castle nut wrench and it did the job perfectly. The wrench is rather cheap and proved to be a very useful tool.

Lower (Stocks + Trigger + Magazine)


There are two types of stocks for the WE M14. The first is the standard wooden stock which comes in two variants: the original plastic stock and an actual wooden stock made by RA-tech. The original plastic stock is by no means cheap or flimsy. In fact, it is very solid, well-made, and quite heavy.


The original plastic stock is actually heavier than the authentic wooden stocks that RA-tech produces. I like the original plastic stock and do not currently see the need to buy an authentic wooden stock. However, I have read that the finish on the wooden stock is beautiful. It is a potential future purchase.


If you want to attach a scope to the M14 with a wooden stock, you have to purchase the WE M14 scope mount. Installation of the scope mount is simple. First remove part #81 (the little piece below the gun in the picture above), by hammering out the tension pin holding it in place. The tension pin is located in the small hole in the center of part #81.

The second picture shows where the tension pin is located. After you remove it, simply slide on the scope mount and secure it in place by hammering the tension pin back into the bolt housing and the screw that goes into the side of the rifle.


The second stock available for the WE M14 is the ‘Enhanced Battle Rifle (EBR)’ stock. This is a modernized version of the M14 that allows the accommodation of attachments such as flashlights, lasers and sights. The EBR stock is beautiful. I was admiring the finish for a few minutes before actually installing and inserting the upper into it.


It comes with an adjustable stock, a pistol grip, ‘Sage’ trademarks on the side, a polymer hand-guard and plenty of rails. It is said to be fully CNC machined, which explains the unerring craftsmanship of the stock. One thing I have noticed, however, is that the trigger is harder to insert into the EBR stock than it is in the wooden stock. While the trigger is inserted in the same manner for both stocks, it has to be placed a little further towards the muzzle in the EBR stock. ‘Further,’ in this case, refers to perhaps half a centimeter.


The EBR stock also allows for variable adjustments in the stock and cheek pad. Simply press the button or lift the lever to adjust the length of the stock or height of the cheek pad.

The Trigger


The trigger unit is quite different from that of my old Ares AW338. It is by no means complicated once you become familiar with the system and know how to disassemble and reassemble it. There are two variants: the stock trigger that comes with the original M14 and the upgraded RA-tech trigger unit. The original trigger unit is prone to many problems after a 1000 rounds. This number may vary as I have heard of it splitting after anywhere between 500-2000 rounds. The main point is that the stock trigger will indeed begin to malfunction sooner or later. This is because the stock trigger is composed of two main parts that over time begin to separate away from each other and make the entire contraption useless.

The upgraded RA-tech trigger unit is $199. This is an extremely expensive upgrade but is completely worth the money. This trigger unit works flawlessly and one never has to worry about the trigger unit malfunctioning like the stock trigger unit. Additionally, the trigger unit seems almost indestructible; the entire device is made out of steel. The trigger is inserted into the stock by pushing down on the trigger guard until an audible click can be heard.

Magazine


The magazine, like for any other gas blowback rifle, is essential to the functionality of the WE M14. BB’s are inserted one by one by hand and due to the fact that this is a gas magazine, it is relatively heavy. Before purchasing the gun, I read many reviews that the magazines came leaky and did not perform the way they were supposed to. I can firmly say that this is not true. While some magazines arrive slightly leaky, for whatever reason, there are a couple of things you can do to solve this problem.


If you remove the metal plate on the bottom of the magazine, there will be two large screws and one small screw at a slight angle. The small smaller screw keeps the magazine attached the magazine shell. The two larger screws keep the bottom and top half of the magazine together securely. The first thing you can do if you have a leaky magazine is to tighten the two large screws. Most leaks occur here and they usually stop when these two screws have been securely fastened. You can hold the magazine next to your ear to see if you can still hear a slight hissing sound. It’s possible the leaks are occurring because of either the fill or output valve. If this is the case, then you can also tighten these with a flat-head screw driver.

You can convert the 20-round magazine into a 30-round magazine by swapping out the screw. This process is simple and will be reviewed in the disassembly section. There is one large O-ring that is located on top of the bottom half of the magazine. It can be located by unscrewing the two main screws on the bottom of the magazine and separating the two halves.

Overall, I have found the magazine to be rock-solid and very reliable. I have had one leak and fixed it by simply tightening the two main screws as mentioned above. I have even dropped it a few times and it continued to perform admirably. I am very satisfied with WE M14 magazines.

Hop-up Unit


The hop-up unit encloses the hop-up rubber and the inner barrel and is made out of what seems to be pot metal. This is okay, however. It hasn’t shown any sign of wear so far. Additionally, there doesn’t seem to be too much stress that is placed on this section of the gun at any given time. There is a silver wheel that allows the adjustment of the hop-up. Simply turn the wheel either direction to add more or less hop.

Last edited by jkwon21; 06-06-2014 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:28 PM   #2
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Disassembly

This section of the review will go over the disassembly of the majority of the entire rifle, including the magazine and trigger unit.

The Magazine

1. Remove the metal plate on the bottom of the magazine by sliding it off. If it is difficult to initially remove, try using a screw driver to pry it off. Do not use too much force, however, as the plate may bend.

2. Unscrew the smaller, third screw that connects the magazine to the magazine shell. Once this is removed, simply slide the magazine out of the shell.

3. There are two more, larger screws on the bottom of the magazine. Unscrew these two screws but beware of the tiny O-rings that are on the two screws. They serve to keep any gas from flowing out of the magazine.

4. The magazine will come apart in two parts. The top half will have the BB feeder attached to it. This can be taken off by unscrewing the screw. The BB feeder will split in two. The bottom half will have a large O-ring sitting at the top. Be sure not to lose this.

5. The input valve, which is located on the bottom half of the magazine can be removed by using a flat head screw driver or even a blade.

6. The output valve is a little trickier to remove; you will need some type of tool, almost like a pair of sharp pliers, to remove it.

7. To remove the feeding lip, hammer out the two skinny tension pins that are located on the top-side of the magazine.

8. If you have any trouble with disassembling the magazine, please refer to the parts diagram attached to this review. You can also e-mail WE for assistance.

9. To reassemble the magazine, simply reverse steps 1-7.

Trigger (RA-tech)

1. Remove the metal trigger guard by hammering out the tension pin that holds it in place.

2. Hammer out the tension pin that holds the hammer plunger and trigger securely in the frame.

3. Unscrew the two tiny screws located near the top of trigger frame using an Allen key.

4. You will be presented by all the internal components.

5. Reassembly can be seen in the video.

Trigger (Stock)

1. Remove the metal trigger guard by hammering out the tension pin that holds it in place.

2. There are two central components that make up the stock trigger. The first one is the trigger housing while the second houses the hammer. Hammer out the tension pin that holds the two together. It is right above the tension pin that holds the magazine release.

3. Once you complete step 2, the entire hammer housing will pounce off because of the hammer plunger. Make sure nothing goes off flying around, do not lose anything!

4. If you want to remove the hammer spring, remove the tension pin (part 14) that is located near where the trigger guard locks into place.

5. The hammer housing contains the rest of the essential components of the trigger unit. It is held together by one screw and consists of parts 28 and 29. Unscrew it to reveal parts 30, 26, 32, 27, and 31.

6. To reassemble the trigger, place part 27 into part 29 and insert the tiny spring (part 31) into the tiny protrusion as pictured. This is side A of the hammer housing.

7. Place part 26 in the little indent located in part 28. While holding part 26 in place, place the spring (part 32) in the following position with the bent end hooking onto the ledge of part 28 and the straight end leading into the rectangular hole in part 26. This is side B of the hammer housing.

8. While holding part 26, 28, and 32 all together, insert the hammer (part 30) into the hole pictured from step 6.

9. Carefully try to match up side A to side B so that you ‘sandwich’ the hammer with all the individual parts on side A and B matching up and locking into place.

10. Screw in part 33 so that side A, B and the hammer all remain intact.

11. Realign the hammer housing with the trigger housing and use the tension pin (part 35) to make sure the two components stay secure.

12. Now it is time to reinsert the hammer spring/plunger. The hammer spring/plunger and trigger consist of parts 15, 36, 13, 22, 24 and 23. Align all of these components as pictured and carefully insert the pin to hold all of these components in place. Part 23 or the hammer plunger should be directed at the hammer.

13. Realign the trigger guard, reinsert the tension pin (part 21) and your trigger is reassembled.

Note: The RA-tech and the stock trigger groups are almost exactly the same. The only difference is that the RA-tech trigger group does not consist of two separate components and there is no tension spring that holds the two parts together. Disassembly and reassembly, otherwise, is exactly the same.

The Gun


1. Remove the trigger unit by gently pulling on the trigger guard. Once you hear that distinctive click, slowly pull out the trigger unit out of the stock.

2. If you are using the wooden stock, you can simply pull the upper receiver out. If you are using the EBR stock, you need to unscrew eight screws in total. Two of them are located on the sides of the chassis while the remaining six are smaller and secure the top rail. Once this is completed, you can remove the upper receiver.

3. Hammer out the tension pin that holds the bolt catch in place. Beware of the small spring that is hiding right behind the bolt catch. Do not lose this.

4. Remove the spring and the bolt catch. Unscrew the screw that was hiding behind the bolt catch as well as one that is directly on the opposite side of the receiver. Note that this screw is slightly longer than the one that was hiding behind the bolt catch.

5. Remove screws (part 123). They are long and have spacers so beware of them falling out.

6. Remove the contraption that keeps the operating rod spring in place. Simply lift it out.

7. Slide the operating rod/charging handle forward so that the dust cover can slide out.

8. Remove the plastic, brown top cover by wedging it out of the hop-up unit housing.

9. Disconnect the steel bolt catch rod from the bolt carrier and the charging handle. This will allow the removal of the bolt carrier. Simply lift it out of place.

10. Remove the operating rod by sliding it back and lifting it out of place. There is an ‘exit’ at the back for it. You may be required to slightly play around with it.

11. Separate the bolt housing from the hop-up unit and outer barrel by removing the screw or part 133.

12. To remove the hop-up unit from the hop-up unit housing, remove the tension pin (part 144). Simply slide the hop-up unit and the inner barrel out of the hop-up unit housing.

13. There is a single screw holding the pot metal hop-up housing together, remove it. This will reveal the hop-up wheel and part 62.

14. To remove the outer barrel from the hop-up unit housing, unscrew the tiny grub screw located on the top of the hop-up unit housing.

15. To remove the flash hider, unscrew the tiny grub screw that is diagonally positioned near the sight. Then twist the castle nut clockwise to remove the flash hider.

16. To reassemble the gun, reverse steps 1-14.

Changing Outer Barrels


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COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE THE GUN PRIOR TO AN OUTER BARREL CHANGE

Disassembly can be seen in the aforementioned video.

The first step to changing outer barrels is hammering out the tension pin in the first picture. It is extremely small. It is on a pin that is set on a spring.

The second step is to unscrew the dummy gas block. Internal components will shoot out if you are not careful, there is a spring located inside the dummy gas block. Once these two steps are completed, you can decide whether you want to install the longer or shorter outer barrel.

Simply reverse the steps when you are reassembling you outer barrel. However, there are a few things to be aware of when installing your outer barrels.


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The two little segments pictured above are installed depending on which length barrel you choose. If you install the longer outer barrel, you must use the segment on the left. The same applies to the right segment if you choose to install the shorter EBR length outer barrel.

Depending on which outer barrel you install, your outer barrels should look like this:


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There is also another thing to be aware of when it comes to changing your outer barrel.


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The piece above is only used when you want to use the wooden stock. When installed, it must be slid onto the outer barrel prior to the dummy gas block. When properly installed, the outer barrel should look like this:


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When you utilize the EBR stock, you do not need to include the aforementioned piece. Simply install the dummy gas block without the piece.

The final thing to take note of is that, depending on which stock you use, you have to use one of the two pieces:


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This piece ensures that the operating rod is aligned with the outer barrel with every shot. The larger, top hole slides over the outer barrel while the bottom, smaller hole is for the operating rod.

Here are the different stock/outer barrel combinations:


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pc screenshot

Note: If you would like me to go over how to disassemble another part of the gun please do not hesitate to ask.

Performance & Upgradability

The WE M14 can be upgraded mainly with RA-tech parts. There are other third parties that create upgrade parts for the WE M14 but using RA-tech parts would be the wisest choice. I have purchased the full RA-tech trigger group and it has paid dividends. Firing the weapon feels great and the trigger pull is very smooth. As of now, my upgrades include:

1. RA-Tech trigger unit
2. King Arms VSR-10 bucking
3. RA-Tech inner barrel
4. 500 FPS nozzle
5. RA-Tech real steel bolt catch


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I have also purchased a RA-tech tight bore barrel (6.01 millimeters) and a REAPS bucking designed for WE-Tech open bolt rifles. I experienced an unpleasant jam with the RA-tech barrel but I was not displeased with the actual product because tighter bores go hand in hand with more frequent jams. I just have to make sure that I keep the hop up rubber dry and the inner barrel clean.

Evike has a full list of RA-tech parts available for the WE M14. Simply go to ‘gas gun parts’ and choose ‘WE-tech,’ from there, finding the page is pretty self-explanatory. If there is one upgrade that I recommend the most, it has to be once again, the RA-tech trigger unit.

You can also buy a real steel style bolt catch as well as other accessories. RA-tech ensures that you have a variety of upgrade options and they do make very high quality parts.

Accessories & Parts, Gas Gun Parts, WE-Tech Parts, WE M14 Series Parts - Evike.com Airsoft Superstore

As far as aesthetics go, I bought a rail mount to bridge the gap between the two Picatinny rail segments right above the dust cover. I additionally bought another rail amount to accommodate the addition of a vertical grip and Harris bipod without removing the polymer hand guard. Finally, I got some custom machine work done so I could have a flash hider that would allow the direct attachment of suppressors.

Conclusion


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I love my WE M14, in both the wood and EBR stock. The recoil makes it extremely fun to shoot and the range on the gun has definitely left an impression on me. It is generally accepted that gas guns are prone to error because of the specific mechanisms involved. The WE M14 is no exception to this rule. However, this fact has not dissuaded me. I sincerely enjoy tinkering with my gun and have meticulously learned of its components inside and out. This gives me confidence that I can fix any problem that arises with my WE M14. Disassembling and reassembling the gun multiple times has, in a strange way, provided me with an almost personal connection with the gun. I know this sounds silly and rather bombastic, but my mind is at piece while I tinker with my WE M14. I sold Archie, my old Ares AW338, and replaced him with Maxi, my new WE M14. Although I do miss Archie in more than one way, I adore Maxi in just as many ways. She kicks hard and leaves me wanting for more.

Last edited by jkwon21; 06-06-2014 at 11:41 PM.
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Old 06-07-2014, 12:08 AM   #3
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The WE-Tech M14 Is a good rifle. What upgrades do you have in it or any for that matter?
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:24 AM   #4
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Great Review!!!
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:03 AM   #5
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GREAT REVIEW!!!! Very detailed. Why can't we have a trade mark version in country? I am now wanting to get the M14, what would you suggest the wood Vietnam look or the EBR?
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniperyuri View Post
The WE-Tech M14 Is a good rifle. What upgrades do you have in it or any for that matter?
There is a list of upgrades in the last section of the review.

I have the following installed:

1. RA-Tech trigger group
2. King Arms bucking
3. RA-Tech bolt catch
4. Trademarked bolt housing
5. 6.01 RA-Tech tightbore inner barrel
7. 500 FPS nozzle
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:47 PM   #7
 
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Well done nice review... Great gun indeed!!


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Old 06-12-2014, 11:49 AM   #8
jkwon21   jkwon21 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by /\/ewton View Post
If you want to mount a vertical grip under the EBR, there is one simple way to do this, and one more complex way. Now, you can completely remove the heat shield from the handguard and buy the extra rail piece, this leaves the internals more exposed, though.
Or, what you can do is cut the handguard down the middle on the bottom, and then mount the extra rail piece, and put the vertical grip there.
Just a suggestion, if you will.
Also, I may have missed this- but infront of the rear sight there is a friction lock that can be pushed out and replaced with a rail piece. The top heatshield can also be replaced with a RIS system, even with the plastic stock.
Great review.
You do not have to even cut down the handguard. Simply order a MOE rail piece and two 1 inch long 10-24 screws. These will screw right in.
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Old 06-13-2014, 02:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by /\/ewton View Post
I think you either misread or missed the point in the "cutting down the HEAT shield" on the handguard.
You know that big, black plastic piece on the Mk.14 EBR handguard? Okay, that's the heat shield- under it are screws for mounting rail segments, but in order to do that you have to REMOVE the heat shield.
Doing so, causes weapon maintenance issues, and that's why I said you could cut down the bottom of it and mount the rail segments. I don't even see why you bothered to comment on my statement.
Don't get all testy with me, I didn't misunderstand a thing. As I said, I didn't modify a single thing on the handguard/heatshield/whatever. The screws went in even with the plastic handguard on. You're the one that's misunderstood.

Last edited by jkwon21; 06-13-2014 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 06-13-2014, 06:42 AM   #10
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I retract all statements and am sorry.
Got confused. Great review none-the-less.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:12 PM   #11
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Nice review.

I'm a fan of the M14 too. I'd like to make couple comments.

Early I the '60s there were not any specific ammo belts. There were mag pouches that fit the standard pants belt I but we needed more and easier access. Some enterprising platoon leader came up with a WW 2 B.A.R. Belt. These were for the BAR rifle. They had at least room for 20 mags and they were nearly the same size as the M14 mags. Some guys carried 2 or even 3 of these plus our loos change that filled any usable space in the pack. We needed to carry plenty of ammo for various shoot outs. You can see why the M4 became so popular.

Now about the WE M14. I have a standard issue one.......or what was standard.

My trigger lasted about 7000 rounds. I repaired it twice before getting the RaTech steel trigger ass'Y. I need to say that this item is really the nicest "bolt on" item I've seen. The trigger itself is slightly different shape and much more comfortable. It is crisp and smooth. We'll worth the 200 bucks.

I too added the RaTech 6.01 barrel ignoring advice from the "experts".. I only shot it a few hundred rounds but the accuracy improvement was terrific. I'm currently installing the IR Hop system. I say installing as it is not a bolt on. It takes considerable tuning but it is truly amazing. Last night after testing I finished off the last mag at 20 yd standing (really a nothing distance) and you could cover 25 shots with a US silver dollar

I already had installed the 500 fps nozzel and aluminum guides. This really perks up the distance and accuracy. I use only .30 bb now and I'm planning on using .36 later.

Your rifle should have come with a tubular speed loader. It takes a little finessing to make this work but it sure beats loading mags one by one. Since I converted all 8 of my mags to 30 rounds I have 2 of these loaders (15 rounds each)per mag in a small plastic case that I carry for extra ammo. I haven't even come close to using all of this. These are available from Evike for about $3 each.

Since the 500 fps nozzle puts me in the sniper bracket I had to disable the full auto feature. This is easily done by just removing the link between the charge handle and the fire control selector. This does not hurt anything.
It has the additional benefit of allowing easy access to the hopup wheel. You will no longer have to field strip the rifle to do this.

Now another feature I added. My outer barrel kept coming loose. First I added a longer set screw so I could reef on it harder, this did not fix it. Then I carefully measured the ID and the OD of the mating parts. I came up with a combination of brass shim that is a very snug fit. Now the barrel can't wobble andI work loose.

Just to make sure I measured a distance out on the heat shield directly over the set screw and drilled a 3/16 Hole for an Allen wrench. Again, now it is not necessary to field strip to tighten this screw.
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Rifle.....WE M14 GBBR
RaTech steel trigger box, RaTech 6.01 SS barrel, LRB mod, 500 fps nozzel, NPAS, Grand leather sling, 30 rnd mag mod, 3x9x40 scope, R-Hop, full auto disabled, minor tweeks, .30-.43 bbs-black or green

Fully range tested

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Last edited by bentwings; 07-10-2014 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:35 AM   #12
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Great detailed review!
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Old 03-14-2015, 06:42 PM   #13
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Old 03-14-2015, 09:17 PM   #14
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Nice picture group. Excellent quality and comments.

I've shot well over 10k rounds through my M14. It's just fun to shoot. I've got just over 100 yd range out behind the shop. The bugs prevent much action for a couple months but otherwise I just wait for nice days.

Currently I'm working on converting to HPA. I have 2 mags drilled and tapped and a hose, couplings and regulator so I can use shop air for testing.

I have a good R hop on a RaTech barrel but I still need some tuning to get the most out of it.

One thing that I'm fighting is the alignment of the scope and the barrel. It's possible to sight in at any distance but not hit right on at other distances. There was an airsoft laser sight tool for a while but it is discontinued. There are RS ones that may work but I haven't explored them yet.

Once the HPA is set up I w will however. I have hight hopes for this setup.
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Fully range tested

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Old 03-15-2015, 02:27 AM   #15
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Since this thread has been dug up (for good reason), I might as well ask here. Does anyone who owns the we m14 think that it could be capable of 250-300ft shots? This would obviously be expensive / heavily upgraded, mostly ra tech parts, and probably hpa tapped running at about 500fps.

I've been wanting one forever, but I don't want to buy myself a money pit if the m14 gbb system isn't capable of "sniper ranges."
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