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Old 10-27-2015, 08:58 AM   #1
1IV   1IV is offline
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TSD SD702 v2 - review/take down/range report/upgrade

So I went ahead and got The TSD SD702 v2 - it comes with steel internals in a metal trigger box.

Fit and manufacturing QC are good. I've ordered some .40 ammo and will be posting a range report with that when it arrives. It functions with .25 ammo and will 0 hop. So yay. ( I've had issues with non zero hop bolt guns. )

First it's a bar 10 clone internally. So parts and upgraded goodies will be easy to put in. It has an external hop adjustment on the left side forend. It has a forward dorsal picatinney rail for mounting a cheap included airsoft bipod. The rail is secured by the sling swivel, and take down hex bolt.



Crazy man did a review of this gun on YouTube - I recommend everyone watch it. He voiced a
concern about this rifle not having a second screw
to hold it in the stock.

The longer bolt can be screwed in the rear most bolt hole too far it can stop the bolt from being cocked.



The rifles are supposed to ship with two screws. But will work with just the forward most secured.




Bolt pull is heavy- I'll chrono and tell ya - but my guess is 510ish with .25s

The forward most top picatinney rail mounting screw was just glued in for cosmetic effect. I noticed that when loc-tighting the top rail retention bolts. Three of four are threaded, an I repaired the non threaded hole easily. I also mfg a proper length second stock screw. You have to cut a metric .70 to length or it will lock up the gun.

QC also missed an absent bottom side barrel anti rotation screw. Easy fix from the RS parts bin.

I mounted a 3-9 x 40 TASCO world class "ranging" optic on high mounts. It a clear optic with a double horizontal crosshair. Should be GTG for predicting drop.

Trigger pull is excellent. 3lbs with creep and a final 4lb break. Has a audible click before final break.
Perfectly acceptable.

Accessories included are a small phillips head screw driver two Allen wrenches, a cheap luggage sling, and two small identical springs. The springs are replacement magazine release springs.

This gun comes with two magazines. Both work well, and feed with no issues. I recommend putting a piece of tape on the curved end of the mags to help them lock in.

I'll post a 100ft range report with the .25s

But when the .40s arrive I will do a real steel type target at 150,200,300 ETC
________________________

Range report - stock gun .25 ammo at 100.
100 ft test of stock SD702 v2.

Raining- .25 ammo.

9 out of 10. On a 1x1 target.

I will try again when the remnants of the Mex hurricane lets up on the rain.

6F2DC370-17DD-497E-A8F0-A702C3642DD2.mp4 Video by oneissuevoter | Photobucket

Skip to the end of this one to see the 8 inch 11rd group at 100ft with .25

https://youtu.be/IqdpueRJE5c

-------------

Long story short: continue reading if you want to take your consistency from-

This:


To

This:


The Teflon tape sealing and take down with pics.



I took pictures all the way in. It's a straight forward trigger box with the trigger guard riding on it. Remove the rear screw the trigger guard lifts off. Then pull the spring keeper out of its seat, and remove the two screws holding the trigger box on. You can now remove the bolt.






The bolt face with the chamber nozzle was slightly more than hand tight. It is robust and smooth with no burrs or casting occlusions.



The internals of the bolt are made of a yellow delrin. It's a fiber reinforced nylon piston with a rubber face pad, and O ring. Spring is a thick stainless, and all parts show no wear from the limited firing done so far. Parts are well greased.




I wrapped the bolt nozzle threading in teflon tape, and tightened it to better than hand tight.



The trigger and sear box is well greased and shows no wear yet.


To remove the barrel, the keeper screw is the forward two picatinney screw, and the small Phillips screw on the dorsal side. Then the barrel unscrews.



The hop up has a action stock seat mounted on it. Two screws keep it in place. They have small washers too. Tug the stock seat box off the hop unit. Take the hop adjustment arm off the hop unit. One screw.


Slide the inner barrel, and hop unit, out the back of the outer barrel.



There are no barrel shims in the outer barrel stabilizing the inner barrel. ( I fix this later.)

There are four screws that hold the clamp hop together. 2 on the adjustment arm two on the body.

Pull the arm all the way forward- give the brass barrel two reference marks. One for the front of the arm one for the trunk.


Remove the screws and lift the top off. Notice the bucking has a detent on its side. This keys into the hop assembly. The adjustment guide arm rides on a O ring. Use the rear reference mark as a place to start the teflon tape. Spin the barrel and overlap the tape to the shoulder of the bucking. Leave the key shoulder unwrapped. Reassemble the guide arm first on the O ring. Then support the bottom shell of the hop assy. Align the hop arm and be careful to align the chamber breaching arm, put the two keeper screws in snugly. Do not over torque.














The barrel has no guide shims. Make some out of cellular foam. Something that will compress, like gun case foam. I used thin ribbons of black duct tape and spun them in front of, and behind the shims to keep them evenly spaced. The holes in the middle of each shim was cut tight to the barrel so they won't slide over the tape keepers. Insert the barrel and shims slowly help the shims into the rear of the outer barrel by compressing them.










The muzzle is controlled by a pined threaded cap. The muzzle brake is also pined and threaded. I see no reason to remove or screw with these right now, so they work to align the muzzle. Leave them as is. Tighten the allen head on the bottom of the brake.






Reassemble the rifle.



----------------

Upgrade range report:

https://youtu.be/ha3ml0uwOtE

After upgrades. Pretty remarkable improvement. The barrel shims really helped.

-----------------
As soon as the .40 ammo arrives I will post a range report 150 to 300ft

I painted it - pics soon.

When I start replacing internals I will continue to update this thread.

Until then: happy hunting.
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Last edited by 1IV; 10-27-2015 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Added a screen shot
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:48 AM   #2
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Painted it: you know I'm happy with it if I painted it.



That's cubic green with a overspray of hammered metal copper. Looks like a old penny.
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:54 PM   #3
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Looks good. Looks like a clone of TM VSR10!

In your future as you learn the gun I forsee you shimming your hopup arm and maybe making it a flat hop mod.
Also I would really look into a AA hopup chamber when your hop up starts to fail.

Thanks for sharing!
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:18 PM   #4
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100ft with .40 ammo. Didn't cherry pick any of this: yes I can do better, no I didn't waste time trying to film it. Good enuf to show y'all.

https://youtu.be/wgsnXbe6Fv4

150ft- playin with editing software

https://youtu.be/zg6IZdlOKnU

225-ft

https://youtu.be/KdQDZcFB2W0
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:44 PM   #5
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At 225 I had 1/2 my available hop activated, my fliers seem to go high not low. At 150: I was using 0 hop, a nice 8 out of the last 10 shots on 13x13 tin- slightly low fliers.

A still, standing, target at 225 would have a 75% chance of a 1st shot hit somewhere balls to head.

Now to improve those odds....

Round count is now at 500 BBs. I will be examining the piston and sear for wear next.
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Last edited by 1IV; 11-02-2015 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:58 AM   #6
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Update: 2000+ BB ROUND COUNT INTERNAL WEAR UPDATE:




Stock sear at 2000 BBs approx - has a light wear to part of the edge. It has lost its black on the contact surfaces.



Scratching of the exterior of the tube caused by the actions ejection port rough edge. Cosmetic meh.



Piston has no wear at all.

Side A:


Side B:


An improvement I made to the face of the nozzle - I sanded the rough machine marks flat, and improved the draft cone size and polish.
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:05 AM   #7
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The nozzle improvement gave a boost to the FPS.

I'll test it at 200 and see if it improved accuracy.



Update- it now chronos at 520 with .20 BBs - and hitting targets at 200 is reliable. I have a 0-150ft top duplex zero. Tree cover or thru the window shots are easy 100-150ft. Cross hair is 200ft body shots in the open, and 225 bottom duplex.

To shoot any further the BB needs spin to stabilize and loft it.

Four clicks on the hop and 225 is now the body shot accurate cross hair zero, and the bottom duplex runs to 275 ft.
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Last edited by 1IV; 12-14-2015 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 01-07-2016, 04:18 PM   #8
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Well the piston finally failed at 4000 rounds. I orders the all metal upgrades, and will post a update when they arrive.
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:08 PM   #9
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Parts have arrived -instal and chrono report soon.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:24 PM   #10
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The extra weight of the piston slowed me to 505fps w.20 BBs. The crisp shoulders on the piston found wear streaks in the bolt. I polished the inside and it smoothed out. Now I have to go buy a heavier spring to get me back near 550fps.

I also tried the Madbull .43s today- they are fantastic at 225ft. Ill make another video test, but I think they outperform the .40 Golden ball blacks. I'm getting 395-400fps out of those.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:25 PM   #11
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The spring that came with that kit was weaker than the one I was running. Kept the old spring in it.
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Old 02-17-2016, 02:18 PM   #12
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Bought steel sear, and replaced the sear seat/ bridge after I discovered the pot metal bridge bent down, and was causing slam fires. The parts I ordered off eBay, and needed polishing. Gun is up and running firing 509 Ft/s w .20s
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:45 PM   #13
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Does it use TSD SD702 specific mags, or will normal VSR-10 mags work with it?
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:04 PM   #14
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hello sir ,, what can else can you tell me about this sniper rifle ,,, what parts fit it as replacements /upgrades , what do you recommend ...
thank you in advance ....
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