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Old 10-13-2012, 06:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MilsimTech View Post
I didn't see the topic on airsoft barracks. A link would be great if you could provide one. I'm sure everyone here would be interested in reading about it.

I was under the presumption that the flat hop involved flipping the bucking inside out and grinding off the "bump" and "alignment lip", basically allowing you to rotate the bucking to use a smooth factory molded surface of the bucking. Then using a new hop nub of some sort (nerf dart, eraser, etc) to push the smooth surface down into the hop window. But I'm new to all this, so maybe I presumed wrong. Someone please fill me in if that's the case.
http://www.airsoft-barracks.com/foru...89#entry259489
This one just used liquid rubber/brush on electrical tape.

As far as I know that was how flat hop was; it works fine except it might have durability issues(while R-hop, on the other hand, does not).

Last edited by ComradeHX; 10-13-2012 at 06:15 AM.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:57 PM   #17
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Ahh okay, thanks for clearing that up for me guys.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:40 PM   #18
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I also tested a barrel i did with this, DuckTape is not smooth enough on the exterior, was applying way to much hop on a .25 out of a G&G M16
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:14 AM   #19
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Sorry for necro but I see this pretty cool hop-mod. I will try tomorrow with my AEG first (Arma Ak haha ) then report later
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JG BAR-10 G-spec:

currently: all stock parts.

plan updrages:

Trigger: shs steel piston sears.
Spring: Element M145.
Inner: 430mm or 500mm depend on bb weight.....
Bucking: Lonex 70*, APS (FL built-in ), JG stock bucking.
Spring guide stopper: PPS steel.
Scope: Bushnell 2x6x28E.
and some plan DIY mods.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:30 PM   #20
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I am not sure what Necro means but I am using Oogoo to make a hop and it works very well.

I put a carbon rod wrapped in packing tape inside the barrel and then form the hop into the window. In order to get a nice outer to under your modded bucking put a piece of drinking straw over it to form the outside. I slit a piece of straw about an inch long.

Paul
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:44 PM   #21
 
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Necro or Necro posting is when the topic has been dead for some time, and someone posts again. Normally something that hasnt had any new comments in a good while is considered dead.. Most forums have a rule and staff will freak out in ya for reviving a dead topic. In my opinion, a topic like this shouldnt exactly fall into that category and should be ok to revive.

The necro's that bug me is when someone says "what gun should I get" and months go by and some knucklehead comes along and says what gun he suggests,lol.

Like really guy? Did ya really think the original poster was gonna wait 6 months to see what gun everyone suggests before he decides? hahaha.

I also feel gallery posts shouldnt be dead topics also..



By the way, this is just my thoughts, other Mods may feel differently
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:05 PM   #22
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Ditto to what Ranger said. Anyway, Builder, do you mean you put the cut straw between the bucking and the barrel to make the outside surface of the j-hop smooth? Another way you could do it is by leaving the outside uneven and just glop it on, take a razor blade and chop it down when dry, then sand it smooth. You way is probably easier though lol. My problem is I always get air bubbles on the inside the barrel side so the contact area isn't perfectly smooth. I'll try thinning it with mineral spirits if I ever get around to it.
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:33 PM   #23
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Thanks guys.

Juggler, Basically that is what I do except I just use the straw to form the outside. When it is cured I remove the straw and go on my merry way.

As for the air bubbles, I had the same problem once upon a time when I first started making molds. The key is to stack thin layers and then when you have it built up enough press the straw down hard so some of the Oogoo oozes out around the straw. Once cured peel the straw and then trim off the flashing with some fine tipped scissors.

Paul
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:38 AM   #24
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Is it possible to see some pictures of the whole process?, and some links of the parts needed would be appreciated by your r European friends...
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:30 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vipergr View Post
Is it possible to see some pictures of the whole process?, and some links of the parts needed would be appreciated by your r European friends...

I am doing one this evening for a buddy so I will shoot some pics.If you are out and about and want to grab the key items you will need: Silicone caulk(nothing fancy just plane !00% silicone caulk), corn starch, a rod or dowel that will fit into your barrel and a drinking straw.


Paul
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:36 AM   #26
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If you go the oogoo route (cornstarch mixed with silicone caulk to make it dry in minutes) you will need silicone type 1. The type 1 silicone absorbs moisture to cure, and since cornstarch holds moisture very well, it cures the caulk in minutes (depending on how much was mixed.

Type 2 silicone caulk however expels moisture to cure, so adding more moisture from the cornstarch wouldn't get you anywhere.

Google "oogoo" and find the instructables page on it by mikey77. read through it and see how it works. You could always just use straight caulk but it takes forever to cure.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:12 AM   #27
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not perfect but seem ok, I will test it tomorrow :D
__________________
JG BAR-10 G-spec:

currently: all stock parts.

plan updrages:

Trigger: shs steel piston sears.
Spring: Element M145.
Inner: 430mm or 500mm depend on bb weight.....
Bucking: Lonex 70*, APS (FL built-in ), JG stock bucking.
Spring guide stopper: PPS steel.
Scope: Bushnell 2x6x28E.
and some plan DIY mods.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:27 AM   #28
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Uh... How expensive is the caulk you guys are buying???
And exactly what brands are okay? I can only find caulk at Lowe's that's like, $15.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:44 PM   #29
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You can find the caulk at any hardware store. I even saw it at walmart. t doesn't matter what brand as long as it is labeled silicone "1". I found the really cheap stuff at homedepot that was only a few bucks and it works fine for me for making oogoo. Like I said though, you don't need to use oogoo, you can use straight caulk. You'll just have to wait a while for it to dry. Again, google "oogoo" and read through the instructable by mikey77. It will tell you all you need to know about oogoo.
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:40 PM   #30
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Sorry kids, I should of posted this earlier but thought it a dead idea, as even I have sort of moved on from it


These are some pics I took of my test hop in my M14......










As you can plainly see their is an arseing gert hole in the silicone, this I believe was caused by the BB dragging past the harder edge of my hop nub to the point of pulling chuncks of the silicone away


Please bear in mind this is high grade building silicone, not the cheap shit you can buy for buttons down pound land/ dollar store.


If it does this to high grade silicone its definately going to do it to other, less durable products.


As an idea this method is sound, and to be honest its ok in use in the short term, as for a long term item I'd give it a miss and try some other more durable ( read harder) rubber, which I'll suspect will then not give the same grip that silicone gives


To be honest the whole molding process, hap hazzard and inconsistent results on BB flight from the moulding is to much of a ball ache to warrent to much time and effort being expended on it
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