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Old 12-08-2013, 10:54 PM   #16
EdGI   EdGI is offline
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I upgraded this type of rifle to 550 Fps by just replacing the,

Inner barrel
Spring
Spring Guide
Sears Set

Over all , I love this Rifle.
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:46 AM   #17
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@jkwon21, sorry to hear about your problem. Just to clarify the problem, the spring guide stopper fell from the trigger set (I thought that there wasn't enough clearance for the stopper to fall, but I don't know for sure since I can't install it yet). So, the big problem is whenever you pull the cylinder bolt back, it came all the way loose from the cylinder housing and out of the upper receiver? (Happened to me a couple of times during trial without installing the lower receiver. Almost crap myself on the spot. I noticed that this is something that never happens with the stock trigger and cylinder set.)

Btw, I tried getting TNTSniperProShop to answer your complaint. Hopefully he'll get back to me/post a reply here so we can get to the bottom of this.

Overall, I'm still loving this rifle. It's definitely something that bystanders seems to like to look at more than the other airsoft rifles (newbies).

There's still massive over hopping on my current setup even with 0,36 grams (will probably try to sand down the r-hop + m-nub combo a bit more). But the stock trigger (sears) has not let me down yet (no visible marks on the piston yet). So, I'll probably pursue the r-hop route further and wait for what MMC has to say about the issue.

@EdGI, glad to hear you like it. How long have you had your rifle? And what brands/types did you use for your upgrades? How's the accuracy?
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:11 PM   #18
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The spring guide stopper pops out out every time I shoot the gun. It doesn't fall out but it loosens which means I have to push the spring guide stopper back in after every shot. My MMC piston is also a problem, the gun can't even shoot through one layer of cardboard when it did before. I ordered a new stock sear from Ares so I can just use the PDI hard piston I have.

ImprezaWRC, are you having trouble with your piston too? Is the power output very weak?
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:07 PM   #19
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@jkwon21: I still haven't tested the MMC set with bbs yet. So, I don't know how it shoots. But, with the stock cylinder and trigger set, it shoots through 2 layers of card boards (even after my R-Hop upgrade).

Back to the MMC problem, if the spring guide stopper falls, does that mean you can't lock the cylinder back on your next shot? So, you had to disassemble the lower receiver and push the stopper back in? Or is there a shortcut to push the stopper back? I found that I had to loosen the trigger and wiggle it a bit to be able to push the stopper all the way in properly.

Since I'll be disassembling everything anyways, I'll try to test how the MMC set fires without the lower receiver.

Also, since you're having problems with the spring guide stopper, I think I'll try to modify the missing spacer replacement to make it to be able to prevent the stopper from falling out. I'm using 2 mm diameter screw and gluing several bolts to hold it down inside the trigger assembly. I'm hoping it has enough thickness to stop the spring guide stopper from falling. Just have to cut the screw's head so that it can fit nicely inside the trigger since there's no space in the lower receiver for the screw's head.

Last edited by imprzaWRC; 12-09-2013 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 12-21-2013, 03:05 AM   #20
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Just wanted to post as an FYI the Viperskins for the real steel counter part does work on this rifle. It requires a little bit of dremel work and some filing to make it fit, but it fits. So one can confirm this is 1:1 on the real gun.
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:14 AM   #21
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Update

@voodoo: do you have links on the viperskins?

Finally did some more work on the rifle for a bit.

@jkwon: I found the same problem as you do, the spring guide stopper (cylinder sear) falls after 5 shots during testing. And when the stopper moves about 3 mm out of place, the cylinder won't lock back.

Since I couldn't fashion something to stop it from falling, I couldn't use the trigger mech yet. So, I tried mix-matching piston and cylinder guide with the stock cylinder (along with the piston sear and cylinder sear). Turns out it's a really bad idea. When I pulled the cylinder back, the whole cylinder would just freeze there. I had to unscrew the original trigger to free the cylinder (also had to remove the barrel assembly to prevent damage to the bb loading mech).

As of right now, MMC Full Upgrade Set is completely useless. Will see if I can make something to prevent the stopper from moving.

So, I'm back to the original cylinder/trigger set for now. Thankfully, it's still performing the way it's supposed to do.

Picture of trigger with modded cylinder sear stopper (originally was supposed to be trigger box spacer/stopper)
2013-12-26 12.37.47.jpg

Picture of original trigger sitting on the lower receiver (notice that the body has 2 box-like structure in the body just on the front of the trigger box that prevents the trigger from shaking, these will need to be removed for installing MMC Trigger)
2013-12-26 15.56.17.jpg

Picture of MMC trigger with upper receiver (when the cylinder sear is in place, the whole mech would work beautifully, so there's potential for it to go better)
2013-12-26 15.58.29.jpg

There isn't any picture showing the in-bar and hop up yet, so, I thought about posting it here.
2013-12-26 16.35.08.jpg

Hop up made of pot metal
2013-12-26 16.35.54.jpg

Last edited by imprzaWRC; 01-01-2014 at 03:31 AM. Reason: Add pictures
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:40 AM   #22
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Additional pictures

Picture of hop up and loading mech
2013-12-26 16.37.43.jpg

Picture of my first R-Hop mod with cut out protrusions from original rubber bucking. I have since redo the R-Hop patch and added teflon taping on top of the brass in-bar and r-hop and another taping on top of the in-bar and rubber bucking.
2013-12-26 16.38.01.jpg

Installed hop up M-Nub in between original hop up arm (thongs on each side forming inverted U shape)
2013-12-26 16.38.49.jpg
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:59 AM   #23
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@jkwon: I chat with ASPUK for a bit about the MMC trigger and below is their response. I'll see if I can get it to stick and post the results back.

Quote:
Me: Hi, I've got the MMC Full set for AW 338 and couldn't get it to work properly. The cylinder sear (spring guide stopper) always drops off after a couple of shots. Is there a way to fix this? Thanks.

AirsoftSniperParts.com: That's possibly because your spring is too weak or too short. The spring guide stopper is held in place under tension from the spring. If this isn't the case, do what i always do, simply use electrical tape to hold the stopper in place and prevent it from dropping. I do this on all mine and my customers builds as a matter of precaution.

Me: Hi, thanks for replying. Anyways, I'm using the complete upgrade set which includes the spring, spring guide, piston and trigger mech. I don't think the spring itself is weak. The spring guide stopper CAN move whenever I press the trigger. I will try the electrical tape mod but doubt that I can make it effective since as it is, it's already very tight squeeze with the lower receiver the lower receiver. On another note, there's a rubber O-ring that comes with the piston (if you see the piston head, there's an O-ring that's behind it that's free-floating, it actually fits the circumference of the cylinder head). Is that supposed to be loose or is it supposed to be held somewhere tightly. It might be because my piston doesn't have a proper sealing so that the spring is jumping all over the place.

AirsoftSniperParts.com: Hmm, sounds like the spring guide stopper is vibrating loose when the rifle is fired. The tape trick should solve it.
The o-ring is mean to be loose. When the piston shoots forward the air flow holes push the o-ring outwards creating a seal between the piston and cylinder wall which stops air leaking round the back of the piston and instead all the air is pushed out the front through the nozzle.
It's mean to be loose, it won't be causing the spring guide to drop. You can experiment with different o-rings, each width and thickness can achieve less or more fps. It's about getting a balance.
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:49 AM   #24
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Good to know I'm not the only one that has been having the same problem. I dumped a lot of money into that stupid trigger set. For the price it's just pathetic that the spring guide stopper has to be 'taped' in place.

I've also had problems with the piston, the first few shots work okay before the spring guide stopper falls out but the piston itself doesn't seem to be pushing out enough air causing the FPS to be extremely weak, even with the original O-ring. Has anybody else had this problem? If not, did you use the stock cylinder?
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:14 PM   #25
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So, I tried the modification to reduce vibration by reducing the gap between in-bar and out-bar. Initially I had just wanted to take the in-bar out and see what's the inside of the out-bar looks like because from pictures of barrel spacers that's available on other rifles, it would seem that the out-bar has only a very thin barrel thickness, so that there's a lot of space between the out-bar and in-bar. That way, you can have spacers through out the length of the barrel. On the Ares though, that doesn't seem to be the case. The out-bar has enough thickness that if you look through the inside of out-bar, you can see that it's a piece of solid barrel and the ID of the out-bar is just a bit bigger that the OD of the in-bar.

I tried taping the barrel with duct tape and that didn't work because the resulting OD of the in-bar is too big. So, I tried 1 layer of masking tape and that seem to do the job better. If I give it another layer, the barrel can't go into the out-bar. Just with this, I can feel that the wobble of the in-bar inside the out-bar is substantially reduced. I'll see if I can get a tighter grouping with it. One thing I noticed with this mod is that I will be having a tough time getting the in-bar out of the out-bar. Also, please suggest the replacement if I'm not supposed to use masking tape as spacers because I don't think I can find any substitute that's as workable as masking tape because the layer is just so thin.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:36 PM   #26
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As the outer barrel is more or less the topic of the last post, I was wondering if anyone know what is actually inside of the outer barrel?

Is it like really solid and made out of one piece or is there actually something like a long spacer glued into the outer barrel?
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:06 PM   #27
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It looks like it's solid one piece. No spacers. That should explain the weight of the aluminum barrel. I'll try to upload pictures later.

Edit: photos of the outer barrel. Sorry I couldn't get it to show properly. But the white bits in the outer barrel shows a continuous cylinder which runs along the inside of the outer barrel from the flash hider up to the hop up housing instead of a spacer with hollow bits in between. There is a bit of a gap between the inner diameter of the outer barrel and the outer diameter of the inner barrel which I could close with 1 layer of masking tape. Doing this improve the grouping, but since I haven't been able to go plinking, I couldn't verify the result on a larger scale (300 shots as opposed to only 10 shots that I've managed to do).

2014-02-06 17.30.51.jpg

2014-02-06 17.30.42.jpg

Sent from my GT-N5100

Last edited by imprzaWRC; 02-06-2014 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 01-28-2014, 01:21 AM   #28
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Hallelujah, it looks like PDI is finally making a trigger system for the Ares AW338!

X-FIRE PDI official distributor

Looks like I'm not going to be selling my Ares after all...
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:04 PM   #29
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First off:
@jkwon: If it's not too late, may want to give MMC trigger one more chance
since, like me, you've bought it. :)
I had managed to get a response from TNTSniper (the store that sold me the MMC Full Upgrade Set for Ares AW 338). The reason the spring guide stopper drop off every time is because TNT didn't shipped it with the bolt that acts as the stopper's stopper. It's just a standard M3 bolt cut down to 6 mm length and screwed to the hole located on to the bottom of the spring guide's stopper. Once this is in, you still have to do a bit of work to the body so that the magazine holder can slide in, after that everything starts to work as they should (no falling).
I am also guessing that you haven't inserted the magazine with the new trigger yet, because that's also another part of the problem with the trigger but luckily it was easily fixed (just need to reverse the end bit of the trigger so that the magazine won't catch the trigger body in the wrong place).

Back to my original post:
Anyways, after all the procrastination, work and studying, I have finally give in and do the mod work on my Ares to fit the MMC set (also because the stock one only had 269,50 fps with 0,36 grams, probably because of the R-Hop mod). I had some problems doing the work but I have finally managed to get the MMC set working. I haven't test it in full, but all the basic functions are up and running (no slam firing, magazine had an issue that I had fixed, no spring guide stopper dropping, increase fps, etc).



Have to get back to work now, so, I'll update this post a bit later on. :)
Still mulling on doing a complete description of the upgrade or just a quick overview for it. :)

1st edit to include photos and brief description:
To make it easier to work on the mod, I took off the magazine catch frame and dremel the upper most part so that it just locks the trigger to the body (this will prevent movement of the trigger body which can cause slam firing). I also dremel the inside of the frame a bit so that it can properly house the spring guide stopper's protruding bolt head.
2014-02-06 17.40.24.jpg

before screwing every bolt in, please make sure to put the parts as shown in this picture. What's not shown was the magazine. It should also be inserted. In my first try, I didn't insert the magazine, so I had to take it all apart again and redo the assembly.
2014-02-06 16.29.29.jpg


Edit: Did 1 mag test (50 bbs) on close range to see if there's any bb feeding issue. Here's what's changed: Before upgrade, I had to wiggle the magazine left and right to insert the magazine because the magazine well was too tight. After upgrade, in addition to wiggling left and right, I had to adjust the tilting angle a bit so that it can be fully inserted. Before upgrade, the force required to pull and push the bolt is about the same. After upgrade, the bolt pull is very hard for me but the bolt push is very very light. Sometimes I would fail to properly pull back the bolt. If this happens, I have to pull the bolt again, I suspect that the hop up is not housing just one but multiple bbs as a result (I did R-Hop mod, so I guess the longer contact patch is able to house more bbs). I noticed because the sound of the rifle firing is different. Everything else seems the same.

Update: Did a couple more mags (about 120 bbs) on ranges of max 12 yards (only place I could do to test) to see how it shoots. Overall, it's louder, have better grouping but still over hopping even with the hop up dial taken out from the hop up housing. So, will have to sand some more of the r-hop and try the dampening mod. Honestly, I thought that with higher fps, bb's would've gone a lot straighter, but as it turns out, at 12 yards (+/- 12,5 meters), they fall roughly on the same spot. But the overall set has better grouping than the original stock set. Original set also had a few fliers here and there, the upgrade set doesn't seem to have them (perhaps my range is too short, so I can't really tell).

Stock fps with the current r-hop mod was 269,50 with 0,36 grams bb or roughly 360 fps at 0,2 grams bb.
Updated stock is supposed to be around 500 fps with 0,2 grams (will see if I can borrow/buy chrono to test)

Edit: Add sound analyzer taken from Samsung Galaxy phone. Distance is about 10 cm from trigger box with magazine attached.
2014-02-17 09.42.28.jpg

Edit: tested with chrono today. On average it's shooting 410 fps with 0,36 grams BB (2,81 joules), which will give it roughly 550 fps with 0,2 grams.

Update: confirmed grouping to be around A4 sized paper at 40 meters (130 feet).

Last edited by imprzaWRC; 03-09-2014 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:21 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprzaWRC View Post
First off:
@jkwon: If it's not too late, may want to give MMC trigger one more chance
since, like me, you've bought it. :)
I had managed to get a response from TNTSniper (the store that sold me the MMC Full Upgrade Set for Ares AW 338). The reason the spring guide stopper drop off every time is because TNT didn't shipped it with the bolt that acts as the stopper's stopper. It's just a standard M3 bolt cut down to 6 mm length and screwed to the hole located on to the bottom of the spring guide's stopper. Once this is in, you still have to do a bit of work to the body so that the magazine holder can slide in, after that everything starts to work as they should (no falling).
I am also guessing that you haven't inserted the magazine with the new trigger yet, because that's also another part of the problem with the trigger but luckily it was easily fixed (just need to reverse the end bit of the trigger so that the magazine won't catch the trigger body in the wrong place).

Back to my original post:
Anyways, after all the procrastination, work and studying, I have finally give in and do the mod work on my Ares to fit the MMC set (also because the stock one only had 269,50 fps with 0,36 grams, probably because of the R-Hop mod). I had some problems doing the work but I have finally managed to get the MMC set working. I haven't test it in full, but all the basic functions are up and running (no slam firing, magazine had an issue that I had fixed, no spring guide stopper dropping, increase fps, etc).



Have to get back to work now, so, I'll update this post a bit later on. :)
Still mulling on doing a complete description of the upgrade or just a quick overview for it. :)
Thanks for the info. I'm having trouble visualizing what you mean by the bolt that acts as the stopper's stopper. Do you have a picture of this by any chance?
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