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Old 06-09-2013, 02:21 PM   #1
jkwon21   jkwon21 is offline
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Ares AW338 Comprehensive Review (MSR-008 Spring)

Ares AW338 Comprehensive Review

Real-Steel Counterpart

The Ares AW338 is an airsoft adaptation of Accuracy International’s famous Arctic Warfare Sniper series. There are various models in the Portsmouth based company’s series which include but are not limited to the L96A1 and the L115A3. The Ares AW338 is named the Arctic Warfare Magnum model that fires the .338 Lapua round, hence the name Ares has decided to give the model. I believe, however, that the Ares AW338 is a replica of the L115A3, the enhanced version of the original L96A1, due to some minor additions that include: a fluted barrel, a monopod, and my imagination!

First Impressions

I ordered the gun in olive drab (OD) and laid my hands on it during the month of January. It was a very exciting moment. The original box was very long in comparison to the boxes of usual L96 clones. The gun came fully assembled along with one 78 round magazine, a double dovetail scope mount, and a quick detach bipod with extendable legs with metal skis instead of rubberized feet. I quickly decided to replace the stock bipod with a Harris-style bipod since the stock bipod continued to scratch the top of the wooden table.

The gun is quite heavy, weighing in about four kilograms or 11 pounds to be exact. The gun without my suppressor measures in at about four feet as well. It is not a small gun by any means but that is to be expected of any bolt action rifle.

Appearances & Functionality


Lower & Upper Bodies

The external appearance of the gun was one of the key factors in my purchase and the aesthetic beauty was apparent from the beginning. The gun is composed of two main components. The lower body, that excludes the outer barrel and the trigger box, is made of a very high quality polymer which propels the gun head and shoulders above the L96 clones and the TM L96 at least in terms of what the main body is made out of. The lower body is certainly made out of an exquisite material.

The outer barrel and trigger box are all made of metal. The outer barrel is fluted and adds a very pleasing aesthetic aspect to the gun. To make the AW338 as realistic as possible, Ares installed a dovetail mount instead of the standard 20 millimeter Picatinny rail. The safety mechanism is like any other on an L96 style rifle. White means safe while red signifies the gun is ready to shoot. The monopod is also a very nifty accessory. Although it isn’t exactly the most useful component, it sometimes comes in handy when stuck in a difficult shooting position by providing a more stable platform.

The only non-metal component other than the polymer body is the plastic tube that carries the BB’s from the magazine into the hop-up unit. This component of the rifle will be discussed later on.
The biggest disappointment was that the spring version of the AW338 from Ares did not come with the flash hider that it was supposed to come with. I had initially thought that this was because of the rules and regulations of requiring an orange tip at the end of airsoft guns. I had later discovered that the gas version does come with the flash hider; it seemed odd that the spring version did not. In the end I e-mailed Ares directly and they agreed to send me one from their headquarters in Hong Kong which cost me around 30-40 dollars. I had purchased this component prior to purchasing the actual gun.

There are Accuracy International trademarks on the sides of the dovetail mount.

The stock of the gun can be folded for storage purposes. It does help when moving the gun from one place to another. To fold the stock, you simply press a small black button on the side of the gun near the trigger; there is absolutely no wobble and you will know when the gun is completely folded by hearing a distinctive clicking sound.

The Magazine

The magazine is quite hefty compared to other L96 clones. One of the big advantages of owning this weapon is that the magazine is in the right place and not farther up on the underside of the gun. It was a personal choice as I wanted something as realistic as possible in relation to the actual rifle made by AI. Ares advertises the maximum capacity of the magazine as 78 rounds although I am actually unsure of how many BB’s it can realistically carry. The maximum I have put into the magazine has been around 50-60 BB’s since this amount was more than enough for one outing at a time. After inserting around 60 BB’s, a large amount of strength and pressure is required to insert any additional BB’s through a speed loader. I’m positive if one remained truly persistent; one could indeed fit all 78 BB’s into the magazine at one time.

The magazine, however, is not without its faults. The magazine has a large spring coiled up inside and acts as the mechanism that pushes the BB’s into the feeding tube that was mentioned earlier. Because of the existence of the elongated spring, inserting BB’s with a speed loader can be quite tricky. After inserting the desired amount of BB’s inside, one must make sure that the “button” must not be pressed inwards at all. This will cause the BB’s to shoot out; I cannot remember how many times I have had BB’s shower into my face. This is a rather difficult process to describe through words; the pictures will certainly help put my words into perspective.

Notice that the button right above the entrance hole for the BB's is not pressed down in the picture above while it is in the picture below. When loading the magazine you want your magazine to look like the picture above before you take out your speed loader from the loading nozzle. If you fail to make sure the button is set all the way up, BB's will shoot into your face! Simply keep pushing the button until it resets itself into its default position.


The Feeding Tube

The only two L96-based models in airsoft, as far as I know, that have the magazine in the right place are the Tokyo Marui L96 AWS (and its subsequent clones) and the Ares AW338 (gas and spring). Both require a method of pushing the BB’s into the hop-up unit which is located further away from the magazine. Although I have never owned a Tokyo Marui L96, I know that it uses a feeding ramp. The Ares AW338, on the other hand, uses a feeding tube or what Ares call an important component of their unique TX system. I personally believe the TX system is nothing but a plastic tube that causes more potential problems than solutions.

However, the plastic tube has been quite good to me and has only malfunctioned once. The trickiest part about the feeding tube provides to be one of the AW338’s largest downfalls. 10-20 BB’s are required to be in the feeding tube at all times if you want to fire the weapon at all. If any less than 10-20 BB’s are inserted into the magazine than the weapon will not fire. However any number of BB’s that are inserted into the magazine after the initial 10-20 will be fired without a problem. Essentially, 10-20 BB’s will always be inside the feeding tube since BB’s are constantly being cycled through the feeding tube when being fired. This entire mechanism was confusing at first but I learned to adapt to it with time.

I have only ever had one issue with the feeding tube when the BB’s that were inside once jammed and caused the gun to cease firing. I simply added some lubrication to the inside of the feeding tube and ever since the BB’s have cycled through the gun seamlessly.

The Hop-Up Unit

I haven’t actually accessed the hop-up unit of this gun because I have not been able to. One of the two screws that I need to unscrew in order to release the hop-up unit seems almost melted causing the hex shaped entrance for the Allen key to be inexistent. This also means that I cannot replace my inner barrel so any comments regarding the inner barrel must also be voided as I have no details or experience with it. Ares have, however, directly told me that the dimensions of the stock inner barrel are 600 millimeters X 6.03 millimeters.
I have contacted Ares for help but even though I have not accessed the hop-up unit myself, I can vouch for it by saying that it does work very well. It can be accessed through a miniscule hole located on top of the outer barrel. It is adjustable with a very small Allen key. Turn it clockwise and the hop-up unit will cause your BB to spin more that translates into a flight path that seems to move upwards. The opposite is true when you turn the screw for the hop-up unit counter-clockwise.

The Trigger Box + Disassembly

The trigger box is made out of metal and all of the tiny components inside are composed of metal. There are many small pieces that fall off quite easily, especially the little piece on the side that controls the safety mechanism. The trigger has been working well for a few months now although I cannot really vouch for its durability since I don’t see my airsoft guns very often. However, the trigger continues to work as the sears are still functional.
When taking the trigger box apart for whatever reason, one must be cautious when he finally opens the trigger box as there are a few springs that could fly out if not careful. Losing one of these springs could prove to be quite a headache. Four screws hold the trigger box together; the first three are quite long and the fourth is shorter. I have taken apart the trigger box many times before not because there was an actual problem but simply for the sake of knowing my gun better.

In order to disassemble the trigger box, you must follow the following steps:

1. To remove the trigger box unscrew the trigger box from the receiver with a screwdriver (Philipps screw). The four screws are located on the outsides of the trigger box.

2. Pull out the trigger box, depending on the components inside of the cylinder the difficulty of this task will vary. Once the trigger box is out you can simply pull out the cylinder.

3. Take out the gray-colored device on the side of the trigger box because it will eventually fall sooner or later. It is held by a small spring, do not lose it! It is buried by the gray contraption in the picture below.

4. To take apart the trigger box, unscrew the four screws on the outer edges the trigger box. One of the screws is hiding behind the contraption that helps operate the safety catch that is operated by a spring. Simply push the mechanism down and unscrew the screw.

5. The trigger box is composed of two metal plates that seal the internal components inside. Simply pull one metal plate off the other. Beware of the internal springs that have the potential to shoot out and get lost.

6. The internal components consist of the first sear and the spring that keeps it in place, the trigger and its corresponding spring, and the contraption at the very back of the trigger box that keeps the trigger in place. The pictures provided act as a good visual. All three of these components are kept in place by three little metal cylinders that are placed in the corresponding holes.

7. To re-assemble the trigger box, reverse the steps mentioned above and in the pictures.

The three pictures above this description show how to re-install the gray device that controls the bolt when it goes up and down. Please forgive me for the lack of continuity in the next series of pictures.

Last edited by jkwon21; 06-09-2013 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 06-09-2013, 02:27 PM   #2
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The Cylinder, Spring Guide and Piston

The cylinder is made of steel while the stock spring guide is made of plastic. The piston that I received was made of aluminum. I know for a fact that not all of the Ares AW338’s came with this custom aluminum piston as some other reviews on the internet showed a plastic one. Regardless, I was grateful to learn this as this red aluminum piston served me well for a few months as well. It is now in a state of degradation and must be replaced. The spring guide and piston that came with the gun originally, will probably only last owners around two to three months.

The spring that actually came with my gun originally was extremely strong to the point that I had a rather tiring time cocking the bolt back. I had later learned that Airsoft GI had put in an M185 spring. A few minutes later I had found an extra M120 spring inside the original box and swapped out the ridiculously strong spring and replaced it with the M120 spring. Cocking the bolt back was now a very easy task. Additionally, the back of the safety mechanism includes an indicator that helps the shooter know the gun is cocked and ready to fire.


Disassembling the Ares AW338 is a fairly simple task.

1. Remove the scope so it does not get damaged while disassembling the rifle.

2. Remove any barrel extensions if they are cumbersome and heavy.

3. Unscrew the two large screws that hold the upper and lower bodies together with a large Allen key. One is located above the magazine and the other is located right above the trigger.

4. To remove the outer barrel from the receiver, you must remove the feeding tube. Unscrew the two screws that hold down the feeding tube with a small Allen key. Beware of the two small, silver rings that keep the feeding tube level with the rest of the receiver.

5. After removing the feeding tube, remove the two screws on the side of the receiver that are clamping down the outer barrel. These screws are rather long and can be removed with an Allen key.

6. Once the outer barrel is removed, be careful of the delta ring inside the receiver that holds the outer barrel in place. To remove the hop-up unit, unscrew the two very small screws that are located on the underside of the outer barrel. The two screws are located on either side of the entrance the BB takes to enter the hop-up unit.

7. To take the bolt off take the cylinder you must first take out the cocking indicator. Push the indicator out of the hole by pushing upward. Unscrew the indicator and then use a thin Allen key or any tool to push out the spring and the black component that pushes the safety indicator upward.

8. Attain an Allen key and unscrew the screw that holds the safety mechanism, bolt, and cylinder together. The screw is located deep inside the safety mechanism.

9. Beware of the piece that is between the safety mechanism and the bolt; do not lose it as it is the piece that allows the bolt to go up and down when you cock the gun.

10. To take out the internal components located inside the cylinder, unscrew the cylinder head by inserting the shorter edge of the Allen key into the singular hole. Twist the cylinder head using the Allen key in a counter-clockwise motion.

11. This concludes the basic breakdown of the Ares AW338 (with the exception of the trigger box which can be seen above). Reverse the aforementioned steps in order to re-assemble the gun.


The Ares AW338 is not VSR compatible despite Ares’ advertisements. The only components that are VSR compatible, from my experience, are the components inside the cylinder: the spring guide, the spring, and the piston. The Ares AW338 takes standard AEG inner barrels.

I currently have a VSR-10 nine millimeter spring guide, a VSR-10 hard piston, and a Tokyo Marui L96 140 spring. The spring that I am currently using has an inner diameter of 11 millimeters. Any spring with an inner diameter of 11 millimeters will be compatible with the 9 millimeter spring guide and the hard piston. These PDI components will not fulfill their potential ability with the original steel cylinder form Ares since the cylinder head will is not designed specifically for PDI pistons. The cylinder head of the Raven cylinder for the Ares AW338 is specifically designed for PDI pistons and will produce a larger output of energy from the spring.

Ares also offers an upgrade kit for all of their bolt-action rifles. This includes a stronger spring and a piston and 9 millimeter spring guide that are both made of stainless steel. Not having owned any of these products, I cannot judge how effective they are. However, the option is there. You can also change the color of the rifle's lower body by purchasing panels for the AW338. They come in black, tan, and OD and cost around 60 dollars.

An Airsoft Sniper Forum member, specifically Springer, has recently told me of an upgraded trigger from TNT sniper shop that also offers an upgraded piston and a 90 degree sear for less likelihood of wear and tear. Even though the stock sears are positioned at 45 degrees, the stock trigger is still performing quite well, the sears have some wear on them. I am planning on purchasing the upgraded trigger eventually. The upgraded trigger and upgraded piston are on sale for approximately 215 dollars + shipping.

The muzzle brake is attached by clamping it on the metal, orange tip with an Allen key. Screwing off the end cap of the original muzzle brake does reveal threads but they are not conventional counter-clockwise 14 millimeter threads. The only way to add a suppressor or any custom flash hider is by going to a machinist and asking him to thread the tip of your barrel. Fortunately, I was able to find a flash hider from a store in Korea over the winter that clamps on just like the original Ares flash hider. The flash hider I bought over the winter, however, does have counter-clockwise 14 millimeter threads and this is how the suppressor is attached to the gun in all of the corresponding pictures. I still had to go to a machinist in order to create a sleeve for the flash hider since the diameter was too large and thus did not screw on tightly at the tip of the barrel. I ordered a custom-made suppressor with the exact dimensions of the actual suppressor that is used on the AI L115A3 (234 X 50 millimeters) with counter-clockwise 14 millimeter threads.


The Ares AW338 performs quite well out of the box. FPS is advertised as 380-450 by Ares and some other websites. The FPS is undoubtedly determined by a number of factors, most notably the spring that is inside the cylinder. I don’t have a chronograph so I can’t say what the FPS is of my rifle right now which includes PDI components inside the cylinder. However, I am convinced that it is shooting around 450 FPS. I am leaving the United States in around a week thus an exact chronograph reading will have to wait until I return for school.

The gun does have very good range even with an M120 spring. I don’t have a lot of access to an outdoor range since I don’t have a car here but I have been going to isolated areas to shoot cans and other articles of garbage. I was able to hit a small flower pot from around 50 feet quite consistently after adjusting the hop-up and the scope. I had been using 0.23 Goldenball BB’s. I believe that with heavier ammunition and upgraded internal components the gun can reach even greater distances without sacrificing too much accuracy.

I can’t comment on how the gun fares in battle since I do not skirmish for a number of reasons. I spend most of the year in New York City where airsoft is actually illegal. My gun resides in my girlfriend’s home all the way on the west coast, in the state of Oregon. I don’t get to see Archie (the name of my Ares) often, which does make me sad but it also helps me cherish the very little time I get to spend with my gun.

Overall Impressions + Problems/Inconveniences

I adore Archie as he looks great and shoots very well, when he decides to. I had been warned of Ares’ shoddy internals and if I had been firing him daily I would have understood why instantly. Since I only shot my gun over large intervals of time the stock piston and spring guide fortunately lasted me a few months. The stock, plastic spring guide has now worn out completely. The stock aluminum piston that came with my gun has also been giving me some problems. Slam-firing has been occurring quite often which is why I replaced these internal components with PDI substitutes. Slam-firing has ceased occurring ever since.

I have taken Archie apart many times solely for maintenance reasons: cleaning the inner barrel, tightening screws on the trigger box, lubricating the cylinder, etc. Despite Ares’ shortcomings, I have had a positive experience with my Ares AW338. I would be lying if I said that Archie has not given me a fair share of headaches but most of these frustrations resulted from my own inadequacy and inexperience in properly maintaining an airsoft gun. I have gained an indefinite amount of knowledge with Archie and I am glad he is my own.

Last edited by jkwon21; 06-10-2013 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 06-09-2013, 02:45 PM   #3
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Excellent review!!
Very nice photo's.
You did an amazing job well done!

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Old 06-09-2013, 07:34 PM   #4
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This makes me want the AW338 even more! Very nice review and the photos are fantastic!
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:45 AM   #5
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Thanks for this detailed review! As you mentioned that the aw338 will take vsr10 piston, i wonder if the PDI BaRiKaRu VC piston would work perfectly in it or not. Thanks again!
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:23 PM   #6
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There is some more information found on this forum...FYI
Comprehensive Ares AW .338 spring version (MSR-006/7/8) review. - Sniper Reviews - Airsoft Forums UK
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:21 AM   #7
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I've seen that review before. I'm pretty sure I covered everything if not more since the review on the UK forum was a while ago.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:03 PM   #8
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Sorry for necro posting, but I thought about adding some materials to the review and I thought this is the best place to do it.

I had just received my rifle about a week ago and I wanted to put some more information that I think might be useful to others who's thinking of getting one. I'm a noob and this is my first rifle and my group's first spring bolt action rifle.

1. Need to get this out first: As mentioned in most forums, not just this one, don't buy an Ares, ever. But, if you're like me and you're still hooked on how this rifle looks, then, the rest of my post are some of the things that you may have to get over with (I'm still loving my rifle in my first week).
2. My rifle came with a very tight magazine tolerances, so, I have been having a hard time pushing the magazine inside.
3. The rifle comes with a proprietary speed loader that has to be used every time you want to insert bbs into magazine (or you can get something similar, but I found it's next to impossible to load bbs without a loader). It's conveniently hold about 68-70 bbs inside the speed loader. It may take some practice to load bbs without having bbs showering all over your face. I mentioned this because the speed loader looks like something that will break eventually.
4. The TX-System bb ramp holds 25 bbs. Depending on how you want to cock the rifle, you can have between 5-27 bbs left in the rifle that you can't fire. So, you get about 33-63 shots per fully loaded magazine.
5. There are 3 versions of how to cock the rifle properly so you're not dry firing:
a. From standing/crouching position, hold the rifle in downward position (about 30 degrees - courtesy of Airsoft GI TX-Systems reviews) and cocked the rifle. This position ensures the most proper bb loading. Note: I can consistently leave only 5 bbs in the TX-System ramp with this method.
b. From crawling position or rifle is at level, after each set of pull and push of the cocking handle, slightly press/push up the magazine into the body of the rifle. Note: on my second shot, this method somehow always fails to load bb properly. But afterwards, the bb loaded fine. I can consistently leave 25 bbs in the TX-System ramp + 1 from the magazine with this method.
c. From crawling position or rifle is at level, pull back the cocking handle, slightly press/push up the magazine into the body of the rifle and then push forward the cocking handle to complete the cycle. Note: I can consistently leave 25 bbs in the TX-System ramp + 2 from the magazine with this method.
6. Aside from adding a 3-9x50 scope, I haven't done any upgrade to the rifle. So, below are pictures of target papers shot at about 12 yards (based on scope parallax focus) using the stock Ares rifle without any hop up adjustments:

2013-11-25 10.43.05.jpg

2013-11-28 09.40.16.jpg

2013-11-28 09.40.56.jpg

2013-11-28 09.41.16.jpg

2013-11-28 09.41.37.jpg

Next, I'll be doing some upgrades to the rifle (MMC full upgrade set for ARES AW 338, barrel spacers, teflon mod, dental floss mod, M-Nub and R-Hop).

Last edited by imprzaWRC; 01-01-2014 at 02:53 AM. Reason: fix image attachments
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:08 PM   #9
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Let me know how the MMC trigger goes. I've had a few problems with it, such as the spring guide stopper constantly falling out and my FPS being extremely low. I think perhaps my MMC piston is a lemon because I feel like it isn't performing the way it should be.
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:54 PM   #10
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Will do. I still haven't disassembled the rifle. I had wanted to wait for it to start slam firing before I start doing any mod to it, but I'll move up the schedule since my group wanted me to increase the fps.
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:31 PM   #11
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Soooo.... I tried upgrading the mmc set. By my request, my trigger came disassembled. And for some reason, it is missing one spacer and one screw.

So I thought maybe I can work it somehow without those and tried upgrading anyways. After working through the upgrade steps including filing some of the body, I managed to get a snuck fit for the trigger.

During initial testing, I kept on getting slam firing. So, turns out if you had positioned the trigger wrong, the sear won't catch the piston properly. And with the missing spacer, I consistently have slam firing.

So, I tried pushing the frontmost trigger body while tightly screwing the trigger to the upper receiver and filling in the missing spacer (the only place I could think of was the cylinder sear guide stopper) with a screw driver just to test if the upgrade works if it had received all the parts, and it works. Bolt pull is much harder than the stock version.

So, before I can proceed to next stage, I need to get the spacer somehow. Will update later.

My Mod update:
Teflon tape cylinder head
M-Nub (didn't remove the original nub, but place the m-nub in between the steel stock nub)
Teflon tape under and over bucking
Filed trigger fitting in the Upper Receiver (might screw up original trigger)

Will be testing the above configuration with original trigger and original cylinder set. Once I have the spacer, I will redo the full mmc upgrade.

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Old 12-04-2013, 02:22 PM   #12
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What bits are vsr compatible?

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Old 12-04-2013, 06:42 PM   #13
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Such a sexy gun, especially the other stock variant. Sucks about the part compatibility though.

It was stated a few times in the OP that the piston, spring guide, and spring are the only compatible parts with the VSR 10.

Does anyone know of any clones? I don't have the kind of cash to spend on the real deal

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Last edited by SamuraiBrah; 12-05-2013 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:02 AM   #14
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@SniperGhost/SamuraiBrah: There are other threads, not in this forum I think, that specifies which parts of VSR-10 are compatible with this rifle. Since I bought the whole set from MMC, I never bothered to look at the other upgrades. From what I have read, this update should be enough to address the downfall of this rifle and hoping that it would last the rifle quite a bit. Ares IS synonymous with wall hanger in most forums I came across. So, instead of getting bits from here and there, I'm trying one from 1 company and see how well it performs. Well, more like 2 companies since I am upgrading the hop up first.

Finally finished up my initial upgrade set. After fumbling a bit more with the trigger set from MMC, I finally gave up and postpone that upgrade later. There's going to be a game tomorrow that I just can't afford to miss.

So, I'm left with Hop up Teflon mod, cleared and sanded hop up bucking from any protrusions, half baked R-Hop patch, half baked M-Nub, Teflon Cylinder Head, original trigger and cylinder set. My initial goal was just to get it up and running.

So, after finishing that, I tried shooting with 1 mag without testing to see if the bb can go through the whole setup with very little force. So, nothing worked. Worst, some BBs got jammed. So, had to go back and disassemble everything. Honestly I thought I was way over my head with this update since there's no clear instructions on how to fine tune the upgrade. But somehow I just cleared my head and redid the whole R-Hop upgrade.

Turns out I didn't sand the r-hop patch enough and the m-nub was protruding more than it should. So, even without any hop up, it literally took the rifle a few shots before it can pushed the bb out of the bb-catch inside the hop up. After the final sanding, I just make extra step to make sure that you won't need as much force to push the bb out. There should be just enough force to hold the bb inside so that bb won't fall down when you move around with a cocked rifle. So, moral of the story, read the steps, watch the videos, memorize the steps and make sure to go through all the process.

Results (at 12 yards range):
Since my goal was just to make the rifle shoot bb as in the stock rifle, I was pretty happy that I managed to get the same performance if not better out of the rifle at 12 yards range. There are visibly over hopped with 0,25 grams bb initially, so I had to turn the hop all the way off. I'll be running the rifle at the game tomorrow with 0,36 grams bb.

Just for comparison, out of 30 shots with the original stock, I usually get 3-7 fliers. On my second mag with the R-Hop/M-Nub upgrade, there were 0 fliers. Also, the stock kinda always shoot within the area of the trigger's cross hair, but never dead center. With R-Hop/M-Nub, I can get at least 5 out 30 shots dead center. I'm guessing that the current setup is still over hopped for 0,25 grams. I'm hoping 0,36 grams can make a difference.

2013-12-06 11.10.48.jpg

2013-12-06 11.11.05.jpg

Last edited by imprzaWRC; 01-01-2014 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 12-08-2013, 02:53 PM   #15
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That MMC trigger set is such crap, it's so expensive and yet it doesn't even function properly. I was actually excited that there was a trigger upgrade for the gun and even after trimming down the frame and all, the performance was extremely disappointing. I'm considering selling this gun altogether and moving on. Ares, as everyone claims, is crap.
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