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Old 09-07-2019, 03:03 PM   #1
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PDI barrel 6.05 430mm quick thoughts

Replaced my maple leaf cj 428mm barrel. Added a PDI 6.05 430mm. More accurate out of box, possibly old barrel little dirty. The CJ would drift around 230/275 feet left or right and make it hard to hit a target often. The pdi is straight and true all the way out. I did not upgrade or replace my existing autobot 70 degree.

I did a 100 ft test with old barrel and soon with the pdi I'll make another thread in a few weeks...
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JG Bar 10 parts list build:
CJ 6.04x428mm
AA hop up
ML bucking 70 degrees
ML concave nub
AA zero trigger w/ 90 degree piston
AA m150 spring
AA spring guide
AA cylinder set
AA end cap (required for AA cylinder)
AA bolt handle
Skeee's TDC hop up
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:09 PM   #2
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Steel will almost always be better than brass unless the brass is heavily polished and lapped.

Also, a comparison of the barrel windows would be nice if you're going through all the trouble of uninstalling and reinstalling.

And if you're going to admit the CJ was dirty another comparison test is really necessary to compare the two. I still think the PDI will be better, but for data's sake...
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:23 PM   #3
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This is all I have. I shaved down the pdi barrel window, took about an hour of work.
Also on my 2nd(new) JG bar 10 I added the AA army threaded cap, I do believe it stables the barrel better the internal glued orange tip. I have a second one on the way, takes a while to get it out but once the threaded cap is on it proved a stable resting place for the inner barrel. I just dont know if it affects accuracy out of an empty cap?

I will finish the test hopfully this week then add the threaded on the old bar 10 and see if it changed anything else...



I will add though my CJ has always veered off past 230+ feet. Left or right, maybe my barrel was slightly off???..
My new barrel spacers are reversed on tape. The old ones are stuck on the CJ barrel. I put the tape on reverse at the start and it's free moving, till I placed tape to prevent it moving.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20190907-221916_Gallery_1567909316258.jpg (92.8 KB, 17 views)
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Check out my YouTube and Facebook channel of my Airsoft page @ Actual Airsoft Reviews or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDL...OtceZDNsCB_Xng and
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FPS 513 514 510 512 516
JG Bar 10 parts list build:
CJ 6.04x428mm
AA hop up
ML bucking 70 degrees
ML concave nub
AA zero trigger w/ 90 degree piston
AA m150 spring
AA spring guide
AA cylinder set
AA end cap (required for AA cylinder)
AA bolt handle
Skeee's TDC hop up
BSA Sweet .22

Last edited by plasticnoob; 09-07-2019 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:24 PM   #4
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Mobile only let's me add one photo per post. Here is my barrel shaved down, used a basic $30 vise/rest from home depot.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20190907-221941_Gallery_1567909451042.jpg (48.2 KB, 19 views)
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Check out my YouTube and Facebook channel of my Airsoft page @ Actual Airsoft Reviews or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDL...OtceZDNsCB_Xng and
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FPS 513 514 510 512 516
JG Bar 10 parts list build:
CJ 6.04x428mm
AA hop up
ML bucking 70 degrees
ML concave nub
AA zero trigger w/ 90 degree piston
AA m150 spring
AA spring guide
AA cylinder set
AA end cap (required for AA cylinder)
AA bolt handle
Skeee's TDC hop up
BSA Sweet .22

Last edited by plasticnoob; 09-07-2019 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 09-08-2019, 08:55 AM   #5
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Looks like the back of the window still needs a little light sanding on the right side. However, if it's already installed and you're getting good results I wouldn't touch it until you have to strip it down for other reasons.
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Old 09-08-2019, 02:24 PM   #6
1tonne   1tonne is offline
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I use a sharp knife to get off any extra little burrs.
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