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Old 09-08-2020, 12:59 PM   #1
Young Gun
 
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A&K M24 build

After trying and failing 3 times to get a DMR AEG build working I figured I’d try a spring sniper instead. My play style has always favored aimed single shots rather than spray and pray. I play only outdoors in heavily forested mountainous terrain.

I’m starting with an A&K M24. I know the VSR10 from JG is typically recommended but I hate the idea of buying a gun and throwing most of it away. My understanding is that the A&K M24 is mostly good to go out of the box as far as internals.

I have also ordered a maple leaf autobot bucking and maple leaf hop up arm to go with it; as well as a 145 spring. My goal FPS is either 450 or 550 FPS, as they are the two points where MED changes. A single shot or semi gun at 450 has a MED of 50 feet, anything above up to 550 is 100 feet.

Question 1: assuming a great air seal and a well polished barrel, how significant of a range difference will there be between a gun at 450 FPS and the same gun at 550 FPS? Basically, is any extra range worth the 2X MED.

My other plans for this rifle are to seal everything, polish the barrel, shim anything that is loose, and do all the other free mods I can.

Question 2: are there any other parts you would recommend replacing? I’ll probably buy a nice barrel some time in the future but use the stock barrel for a while (after I polish the inside)

Thank you for your help. Ordering the rifle, spring, bucking, hop up arm, and 2 spare magazines with a 10% off coupon so far has me under $190 for what I hope will be a decent sniper.
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Old 09-08-2020, 02:55 PM   #2
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If you are using .43g BBs at 1.88J(450 with a .20) you should have about 250 or so feet of effective range depending on upgraded and conditions.
For 2.81J using .48 (550 with .20) you should expect up to 310 feet if the conditions are good and you are aiming a bit high.
Expect more like 250-290 though, as you will need lots of tuning experience to get your gun to do that or better.
I can pull off 347 foot shots, but it takes nice conditions, heavy BBs, and tons of holdover.
And 0-15 shots, as there will be misses.
Luckily though, I have an HPA gun so it's really quiet and follow up shots are pretty easy to do

As for parts, barrel, bucking, arm or nub, maybe cylinder group, trigger, and other bits and pieces.
I recommend barrel, bucking, and DIY mods first, then replace the other stock parts that wear out more quickly than others.
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Last edited by SiliconeSword; 09-08-2020 at 02:57 PM.
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Old 09-08-2020, 03:16 PM   #3
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Thank you.

I’m leaning towards 450 then as the lower MED will probably be better in a thick forest than the extra range.
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Old 09-08-2020, 04:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleg37 View Post
Thank you.

I’m leaning towards 450 then as the lower MED will probably be better in a thick forest than the extra range.
I think that if it were semi that would be a good idea, but you would probably be more effective with 550 and an AAP01 or MK23.
I used a springer pistol with a sniper for like 2 years, it had lasted 40,000 shots until I accidentally broke something when I was trying to upgrade it lol.
I would use it if I had to, or back off a bit if not
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Old 09-08-2020, 07:22 PM   #5
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So I buy and improve the M24 and sell them (6 and counting), the sear is steel and 90 degree, the piston, cylinder, spring guide are steel. The barrel will need the bridge removing to use a vsr bucking, I replace the stock hop up arm with the maple leaf vsr arm, I also sand the inside of the receiver with a 400 grit sandpaper and then polish it with a cream type polish. Sometimes you can remove the cylinder head and improve the air seal, change the spring, other times the cylinder head glue on and cannot be removed easily. Using 46s the range is very good and accurate
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Old 09-08-2020, 08:27 PM   #6
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Howdy! While the specs of the gun look excellent on paper, there are a fair few things that bug me with the rifle.

1. Bolt screw WILL come loose. For some reason it has a habit of repeatedly unscrewing. There's no real sweet spot to make the bolt handle smooth.

2. Speaking of loose screws, the trigger box also has a nasty habit of screws repeatedly coming loose.

3. Be prepared for some feeding issues you'll need to fix. At first, I wouldn't always feed the bbs. Added some material to the bb release and now it double feeds sometimes.

I've added a ML MR Hop, ML Arm, and it shoots pretty good. Be aware that it will struggle to hop anything over .36 with those basic upgrades. You'll need a tdc or some diy mods. My recommendation is to use the stock barrel so you can make use of the barrel stabilizers.
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Old 09-15-2020, 09:03 AM   #7
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My order placed September 8th finally shipped today. Should arrive on Friday, first game will be on Sunday.
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Old 09-15-2020, 09:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMP Airsoft View Post
Howdy! While the specs of the gun look excellent on paper, there are a fair few things that bug me with the rifle.

1. Bolt screw WILL come loose. For some reason it has a habit of repeatedly unscrewing. There's no real sweet spot to make the bolt handle smooth.

1. Is that the screw that holds the bolt handle on? Is this something that you could fix with either a better screw, some locktite, or a locking washer?
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Old 09-15-2020, 12:22 PM   #9
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So to make the bolt handle smooth, when you lift it up to draw it back, First undo bolt and remove bolt handle, careful not to lose the 3 ball bearings which help it click it it’s positions, then take the end cap and using 400/800 grit sandpaper remove the paint off the cap but placing it open side down and gentle move it about , put the sandpaper onto a flat surface so you don’t sand a slop onto the bolt cap, once the paint is removed, reassemble the bolt handle etc, placing some lithium grease on the now bare metal bolt cap, use some loctite to hold bolt in the right position, I have done to all the M24s I have upgraded and it does make the bolt lift so much smoother
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Old 09-18-2020, 10:19 PM   #10
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It arrived today. Bolt pull was really gritty so I sanded the inside of the receiver and the outside of the cylinder. I had a real hard time taking the outer barrel off, turns out the screws holding the scope rail on were too long and were going through the receiver. I ground them shorter and bedded the scope rail with JB Weld. I’m waiting for it to dry.

I got the hop up arm and bucking installed.

The screw that holds the outer barrel on is also too long, and interferes with the cylinder if you tighten it all the way. I swapped it for a slightly shorter screw I had on hand.

Last edited by redleg37; 09-19-2020 at 01:08 AM. Reason: Clairification
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Old 09-19-2020, 12:54 AM   #11
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Cylinder head has a perfect seal stock, but the head to bucking loses air seal with both the stock bucking and the maple leaf. I have the locking ring installed on the bucking and teflon taped it.

After wrapping some Teflon tape around the end of the nozzle the air leak improved, but it’s harder to cycle the bolt into battery. It requires a bit more oomph to get it the last mm or so into the bucking.

Will a VSR10 aftermarket cylinder nozzle work with this?




Edit: I got the stock painted, added a Harris and an Athlon scope I had on a .22lr bench gun. It’s overkill, 6-30x, but it’s what I had on hand.

Last edited by redleg37; 09-19-2020 at 01:04 AM.
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Old 09-20-2020, 05:32 PM   #12
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I had my first game today. It did okay, I’m hopeful it will be awesome.

First off, on the stock spring it shot 350 FPS with .36 bbs. I’ll add my m145 spring and see how much it shoots next time.

Two issues I need to correct.

1: the mag release is comically small and impossible to release with gloves on. I have some plastic sheet and some plastic welding cement, so I’ll enlarge the mag release so it’s able to be done with gloves on.

2: the bbs don’t load into the hop up chamber unless I push the magazine up while cycling the bolt. I’m not sure how to fix this but if you have any ideas please let me know.

Overall I’m pretty happy with it so far.
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Old 09-20-2020, 05:42 PM   #13
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I believe you shave off a little bit of something or add a bit of glue to build up material depending on the situation of the mag feeding.
Blind Sniper did a video somewhat recently, it's about VSR-10 mags, but I expect most Sniper info is transferable to an extent.
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We all know the guy that says he can split an atom, at 420 feet, with 1J, in the dark, and handcuffs, with a widebore, and a 25mm ER-hop……………

Where you can see my projects and other cool stuff
https://www.instagram.com/silicone_sword/
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Old 09-20-2020, 05:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SiliconeSword View Post
I believe you shave off a little bit of something or add a bit of glue to build up material depending on the situation of the mag feeding.
Blind Sniper did a video somewhat recently, it's about VSR-10 mags, but I expect most Sniper info is transferable to an extent.
Thanks for the mention but mine was for engagement. More common with a maple leaf vsr stock. I believe his mags are different from a vsr and have little tabs you need to pull back to release the mag. All being flush with the stock. I hate that style magazine which stopped me from building an m24 or from using certain stock styles for projects. You might be able to widen the hole to fit more of your finger tip in but I think it will mess up how the mag latches in place.

*edit* of course after I posted my reply I instantly know what you mean now lol. Yea you might be able to do a similar mod to engage the mag a tad more
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Old 09-20-2020, 07:55 PM   #15
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On the mag issue and needing to hold it in to get the bb to load, the screw that hold the hop chamber in, I found sometimes the head of the screw a bit too large and it topped the mag going that last mm in to feed properly, so either file it a little thinner or replace it , it’s only the screw under the mag well not the one inside body ( the second hop up chamber screw). The top screw on the rail which was too long is because it helps lock the outer barrel in place the bottom screw should not cause an issue as the slot in the cylinder is wider than the screw thread and the thread should not impede or rub on the cylinder
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