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Well, you know I'll be trying this on an Aeg anyway because a) they're all I currently have any b) I'm always happy to try something new, so long as I understand the theory.

Can you not put your spacers on the piston? So you can add weight and preload the spring? Or can that cause issues?

Slightly off topic; I also saw in reading earlier than off center nozzles also causes an fps drop... That makes a lot of sense and explains a lot.

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Well, you know I'll be trying this on an Aeg anyway because a) they're all I currently have any b) I'm always happy to try something new, so long as I understand the theory.

Can you not put your spacers on the piston? So you can add weight and preload the spring? Or can that cause issues?

Slightly off topic; I also saw in reading earlier than off center nozzles also causes an fps drop... That makes a lot of sense and explains a lot.

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Thats what I initially did to add weight to the piston, I usually pre-load from the guide end using 15mm copper pipe cut to different lengths as its easier, but on the SVD-S I used a I cut a steel pipe and put it in the piston.

The advantage of bolt action pistons is they are quite deep set along allowing all sorts of stuff to be added easily to the outside, all you got to make sure of its firmly attached.

Yes, off set nozzles do cost fps, but I believe Wiehrauch have invented a new seal that counters this, quite what it looks like I cant say as Ive not seen one yet.... rest asured when I do I'll be trying to copy it to my M14 piston
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Nope, the Ares SVD-S has a VSR bucking, Its the main reason I bought this over the A&K,..... you can convert the A&K chamber to fit it, but that would mean I'd have to use AEG rubbers, and why would I want to do that :shrug:
All Good. Makes sense then
 
Very nice read Vindi. I think I will give this a shot on my bar10, seeing as it needs a rebuild anyway.

Now just to make sure I understand right, starting from the front, LRB, ER/R/Flat with VSR bucking, reduced port size of cylinder head, weighted piston (I have one of Ranger's pistons which is not ported), and a spring that has been shimmed. Correct?
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Very nice read Vindi. I think I will give this a shot on my bar10, seeing as it needs a rebuild anyway.

Now just to make sure I understand right, starting from the front, LRB, ER/R/Flat with VSR bucking, reduced port size of cylinder head, weighted piston (I have one of Ranger's pistons which is not ported), and a spring that has been shimmed. Correct?
That sort of covers it, just make sure the port reducer is not too small or too long, it only needs to slow the air down and for as little obstruction as possible, also use the largest diameter spring you can with the thickest wire, they give a higher rate for a lower compression rate.

I made my test sample 6mm long & 3.6 mm dia as something to go on, though I plan to tap my VSR head and fit a short bolt that I can then drill out using presicion drills to optimize the port size vs fps output
 
This theory explains and backs up arguments in favor of short barrels and proportionally ported cylinders since this too allows the piston to build up speed / pressure before moving the BB.

I'm curious to see how narrow it is beneficial to go with the nozzle opening. I would think that perhaps with our lower pressures we would want to use an even smaller nozzle opening, but that is pure speculation.
 
So with this new setup up, LRBs would practically be pointless...
Because then the bb won't have anytime to stabilize.

So could we not put a little piece of etape on the top and bottom of the barrel to hold the bb a little longer?

Also, should the miracle barrels be looked at more in depth? Since they have that piece on the bottom to push the bb up some and retain it a little longer?
 
So with this new setup up, LRBs would practically be pointless...
Because then the bb won't have anytime to stabilize.
No, in fact LRB's would be able to do their job more effectively. This is because the bb does not move (much) until the cylinder is to maximum compression. This allowing the bb to run along the top of the barrel the whole time with consistent pressure behind it (proposed setup) instead of going halfway down the barrel with the cylinder not at maximum compression, possibly bouncing more and gaining unstable hop and before being jettisoned out of the barrel when the cylinder reaches full compression (current setup).
 
That great, and one way of looking at it. But I have heard of people seeing no result using an LRB when they have a high fps setup because the bb is moving too fast(thus escaping from the barrel quickly)for the LRB to take effect. Which was one of the benifits of setting your system up this way.

And this also leads to having a higher fps being better..


Also!!! After thinking, all of this modding is completely pointless if you don't have your cylinder volume matching your barrel volume to the correct ratio!
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
No idea how many of you looks at ASM, but someone linked this thread on it. Good thinking, more people looking into the subject.

http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=11443.msg135231#msg135231

Interesting reading, on both sites.
Meh, you'll notice the predominance of the word AEG, there is no mention of the fact Ive done this purely to a bolt action.... I have stated its not for the the full auto queens out there, and its dubious as to whether you'd get an AEG to pull a spring or be able to weight a piston to gain full effect.

He also rattles on about the deep nozzle things pressing BBs against the nubs etc.... For those of you who follow my posts will know I've been an advocate of the "BB on a stick" as a method of fine tuning your BB position between your hop nub and nozzle for many years.

Its one reason I stopped going on there, all a bit pretentious for my liking, too AEG oriented & hs5 is treated as some sort of all seeing god, that if he says 'no' its then treated as law.

He says Im getting 'tired' of long hop mods.... Far from it, I'm a firm advocate of them, he just doesn't like it because Ive come up with an idea (my offset barrel) that doesn't require you to buy his patches, same as I disproved the usefullness of his barrel cleaning tool he produces, Im a proper bush mechanic, doing things in my shed from every day purchasable products that anyone with the nouse can reproduce, he has just approached it from the other end and is inventing stuff to sell... In the end I have nothing to lose except time spent, he could lose income....

If buying the latest gadget is your thing.... Have at it.... Saving myself a few quid by finding a more readily available way is mine, it costs me very little so I share my findings with you...what you then do with it is up to you.
 
Of course he does Vin. He has a company and a bottom line to protect. He'll say his shit is better than the next guys even if it's marginally better.

I'm not saying he's a bad person, that's just business.
 
I've restricted my nozzle from 4mm to 3mm, and the insert is about 20mm long(Maybe too long).
Before: 505fps
After: 385fps
I didn't add a spacer or anything else.
I made my insert from a 4mm brass tube, that I made a bit wider on the inside of the nozzle.
That way i wont need glue.

But I can't test it out for now(Lots of work).
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I've restricted my nozzle from 4mm to 3mm, and the insert is about 20mm long(Maybe too long).
Before: 505fps
After: 385fps
I didn't add a spacer or anything else.
I made my insert from a 4mm brass tube, that I made a bit wider on the inside of the nozzle.
That way i wont need glue.

But I can't test it out for now(Lots of work).
You now need to play with pre-load washers and spring strengths, then with piston weights,

Ive managed to get mine back to the 447fps it was orginally at, but I'm going to say 'yes' 20mm is tooo long, thats even considered long in airgun circles.

I've been thinking more on this, but yet to try it, and that is the reducer should be the piston head side of the nozzle, not as I've done in my original test, and fitted it to the BB end of the nozzle.... reason being there is a hell of a lot of lost volume in the nozzle that wont be compressed by the piston, this directly affect compression ratio, and as that is what we're trying to maximise here it makes sense.

Again I would restrict the length to 6mm or so as any longer is just going to kill fps un-necessarily for no gain, I dont believe the nozzle size after the resticter will matter to much, larger the better as it may possibly act as a venturi.

I've found a spare VSR orange piston... believe Airarms :shrug:.... that I plan to convert to a high compression heavy weight piston when I get the time..... let the tinkering continue.....
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Here are some images of my first try.
Is it set in perminant yet??

I have the same head in my VSR, I planned to do something similar but fill the porting with filler with the reducer set in the middle for about 6mm in length, purely to maximise the compression of the piston.

If its a trial piece, try it both in and out, but I would cut the length in half if I was you.

Dont forget it only works if your using a heavy spring and a heavy weight piston aswell
 
I just tried a about 6mm variant of the above, and the fps output is the same.
When I first tried the 6mm reducer it fell out, so now I glued it in.
I got two cylinder heads(Same as in the images), and I got the long one in the other CH, although not glued in, as its a tight fit, and it didn't seem like it will go anywhere.
 
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