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#162 ·
Same here. I used the 6mmx8mm tubing just cut to size no sanding and didn't bother filing the "space". My barrel measured 8.4mm so that realy only leaves a .2mm space which becomes non existent once you apply any pressure. Mine works like a charm.
 
#163 ·
So, 6mmx8mm is best or 5x9mm or 6x9mm ? I'm pretty confused...
 
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#168 ·
UnholyGiT said:
so to summaries

which is the best id / od / wall thickness to buy ?
Click to expand...
I believe the ID should be 6mm and OD should be 8mm. Check the OP for details.
 
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#169 ·
OD will make the tubing slightly smaller than the OD of the barrel (which is 8.5mm), so if you want a perfect fit, you'll need to get an ID of 6mm and an OD of 9mm and sand it down a little ;)
 
#170 ·
well im in the Uk

so ordering from mcmaster.com was really good fun, Tho i did find a good friend in America who has offered to buy and post me it " bonus " Tho they only sell the 6mm x 9mm in 10 feet sections so i should have enough left over ;)

So if anyone else from the UK wants the stuff from mcmaster.com Hit me up.
 
#172 ·
i tried the 60 shore stuff and found it a bit difficult to work with when sanding on the barrel it seemed to scrunch up and rip at the " legs "

the semi soft on mcmaster is 70 shore so will be slightly harder meaning easier to sand / cut.

did you have much luck with that stuff in your link?
 
#175 · (Edited)
I tried the 60 and really was not impressed, just seemed to bunch up around the barrel window when sanding, and that was with 800 grit sand paper.

I went and ordered the 70 shore from mc master carr as it was £7.00 and a friend in america is posting it to me, 10ft really should be plennty ;) and is more likly to be the stuff HS5 uses as its semiclear blue rather than clear stuff from the uK.

i also wanted the 70 shore as ill be putting it in my sniper rifle also which is firing at around 480 490 fps

will it make much difference? who knows

6 mm ID, 9 mm OD which should be perfect!

only time will tell tho, Will keep you all up to date

Unholy
 
#179 ·
Using a rod idea is good but poorly applied...no offense.
For those finding it difficult to cut the tubing standing on-end (ie. after you cut the tubing to length), find a brass or other tube that fits relatively closely inside the barrel (eg. 6mm OD tubing)...place into the barrel and tape securely...using an X-Acto or similar blade scribe a line along the edges of the hop patch window (NOT the ends - just the sides). Withdraw the tube and extend the lines just marked for a reasonable distance. After cutting the silicon tubing to length (eg. to fit the barrel window), stretch the tubing over the brass tube (with scribe marks) and cut the silicon tubing using those same marks...use a sharp X-Acto (or similar) and hold vertically to make the cuts. No more "collapsing" columns or other seemingly impossible cutting acrobatics.

Just a thought...
 
#180 ·
That sounds like an interesting idea, but I think there's a problem with it too.

The bottoms of the legs of the patch should be parallel to each other, so if you were to put the patch down on a table, the legs would be flat against the table. With your method, unless the blade cutting the tube is at the correct angle, the patch might wedge itself into the hop window. And if the blade is angled like that, it would take a steady hand to not slip.

Then again, I may just be over thinking this. If someone tries it and it works better than other methods, then that would be great.

Though, this isn't really the thread for it. This thread is more about where to get the tubing. If you start a new thread about this and the method works out, I'll add it to the r-hop database.
 
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