I'm well aware of how a hop-up works, but I found it strange considering the r-hop makes my bb flight path straighter.
I'll try 1tonne's suggestion to see if it's just how it's mounted. For now I checked my zero at roughly 5 meters (yes I know, that's not a range at all) but it seems my scope was severely misaligned in the first place. Had to adjust the elevation by more than 200 clicks. Maybe that means I had some kind of problem close to TSD's diagram.
I'm hoping to zero it in at a longer range indoors soon.
Your problem is you zeroed the scope to a particular point in its trajectory, for my rifle, it fires flat until near max range, then it sort of floats up and back down, I centered my scope at roughly the top of that "float" and I know about my max range, so I can accurately (within a few inches) tell where the shot will land through the entire trajectory. An idea is to measure the distance from barrel center to scope center, mark that distance above a bullseye and then boresight your gun to the bullseye, zero the scope to the mark.
if you zero your scope to the actual point of impact, when you are at closer range than your zero point you will have to aim high, when you are farther you will have to aim low, with variations for every distance inbetween, its just not as good if you want to hit on the first shot since you dont know for sure exactly how far the person is away and then figure out the ratio to/from your zero point and then figure out point of impact, aim to that, and shoot, the game is too fast for that.
people also seem to gravitate to really, realy high power scopes for the ranges we're engaging at, I use a 1.5-2x mag scope at best, I see a lot of pictures with massive 50mm lense 3-9+x scopes that just are too powerful for the ranges we're typically shooting. the only reason I use a scope at all is my eyes aren't as great as they were 10 years ago.
you lose the "no thought" zero the crosshairs on your target and shoot at a very specific range but you'll be more effective at all ranges.