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I'd have a word with the site. Explain what the kit is and how it works.
Explain that it's a regulated system and can be locked off with a tournament lock and see what they say.

Sometimes they just needed to be educated on things they may not be aware of.

I can understand banning co2 in pistols or other guns where it isn't regulated as it will hit hard, but when it's regulated and locked off I see no problem
 
Was doing some reviewing and got to wondering what parts do you need to convert your CO2 into HPA?

Quick release fitting:
Quick release fitting - Mancraft
6/4mm hose adaptor: (Seeing how most requlators lines are setup for 6mm)
6/4mm hose adaptor - Mancraft

W/ Tank and regulator.
Am I missing anything?
you have probably all ready seen what i did... but for any one else coming over this.
i got a ninja reg and im using that now.
the ninja reg comes whit all the stuff needed to conect to most hpa systems. but the conector to the macro line was well for a MACRO line not a MICRO line (one is 8mm the other 4mm) so i had to get a new adapter.
but on that...

the macro/micro line is prone to braking when under stress (being bent and all of that) so using the mancraft reg would in fact cost you more time as you need to find a quick disconnect system (find one you can disconnect without turning of the pressure. and the ones macraft has, im not sure if they have a blowback valve.), hose (of the same type used on p* and other hpa systems) and all the needed adapters.

i know it sounds tempting to just run the mm4 line to the reg, but its not going to last you very long. but having it mounted like ahp has whit co2 on the rifle will not cause a loot of stress on the line. unlike having it running to a tank in you back pack.

then again i am probably going to get the mancraft reg to. but im only going to use that for co2 and i will have it all mounted on the rifle. makes it easier as i dont need to fiddle whit the pressure to much. and more or less just set it and forget it.
 
but now on a different note....
i have noticed the fact that the piston and air nozzle on the mancraft system has no dampening at all... and it makes a fairly loud metallic clonk sound when dry fired
but when im shooting .36 or any thing heavier it the clonk is gone.
so i guess the pressure and the bb in the barrel is sort of working like an air brake.
and then i tough to my self.

i guess there is a possibility i can make this rifle semi auto and full auto.
by changing the spring pushing the piston.
as the pressure from the reg would have enough force to push the piston back.
and there by eliminating the need for a bolt pull.
now i have a feeling the pressure needs to be high for this to work. but i did the math and i checked the piston. and it IS a theoretical possibility for this.
now when it comes to real life i dont know. soo atm im looking for a weaker spring to see if it can be done
 
But then you'd have a semi auto and be restricted to a lower fps at your site wouldn't you?

If you want semi auto just buy the shell of an sr25 or similar and get the pdik
why would i waste 300-400 usd when i can just get a new spring at less than 10 usd and just test this theory. then again i would have a semi/full auto vsr-10
so there is that

(and btw the pdik is just semi not fullauto)
 
well im going to try it any way just for funn.
point was "is it possible" and if it is then hey why the hell not.

as i said in my intro i love doing random crazy mods for no good reason other than "i can"
 
Guys, maybe stupid question, but, what would be the main benefits of that kit?
I still trying to understand it, maybe with your help I will.
As I'm living in Ireland, kind of limited in the FPS /328/, can't see what I mait benefit from installing one of them.
Thanks.
 
Guys, maybe stupid question, but, what would be the main benefits of that kit?
I still trying to understand it, maybe with your help I will.
As I'm living in Ireland, kind of limited in the FPS /328/, can't see what I mait benefit from installing one of them.
Thanks.
first of.
wide bore barrels :tup: issue whit a spring rifle is that your are limited to the air volum in the cylinder. but whit hpa you can just flood it and there by the bb wont hit the inside of the barrel making it more accurate. (well thats the theory. i can say how ever, wide bore from experience is more accurate than tight bore.)

second of all.
instead of what a 10cm bolt pull.
i now have 4 cm bolt pull that is so light i can do it whit my pinky.

and the third reason.
i can change the fps whit an alen key, and it takes me less than 1 min to change it. good for the times when you go traveling and get to a new field/klubb and they have other fps rules.
 
So I'm an hpa noob and would like to get one of these units installed into my vsr, the only thing that makes me hesitant is the CO2 change possibly mid battle, is there any easier rig setup for CO2 that can "quick change" or would HPA be the better option? If HPA is the better option what would be the best rig for this? Sorry I'm asking to be spoon fed information haha.
 
So I'm an hpa noob and would like to get one of these units installed into my vsr, the only thing that makes me hesitant is the CO2 change possibly mid battle, is there any easier rig setup for CO2 that can "quick change" or would HPA be the better option? If HPA is the better option what would be the best rig for this? Sorry I'm asking to be spoon fed information haha.
well there is several co2 solutions on the marked. but all i know is that the o-rings on some of mancrafts co2 thingy's are a bit finicky.

but on the hpa side (that is what i use atm) you need a tank. (no need for a big one as you wont be going full auto like whit a p*) so a 0.2l 300 bar tank will last you a long time.
i have a 0.8l 200bar and i haven't filled it yet only used 80 ish bar on 500 shots or so. <,<

other than that get a regulator whit a good hose in the length you need.
just make sure you get a quick disconnect whit a blow-back valve, as this means you can disconnect the rifle from the hpa tank whit pressure on.

for example.
you playing capture the flag.
and you are close to the flag and its clear, you can then dc the rifle and leave it where you are and run for the flag.
so you dont have to carry the rifle while running like a lunatic for your base.
 
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