The goal of my upgrade ...

bluedust · Jul 30, 2016

The goal of my upgrade is to reliably hit a man size target between 60 - 80 metres reliably.

I have a TM VSR 10 GSPEC and I plan to use Airsoft Pro to upgrade the cylinder, cylinder head, piston, trigger, spring and hop arm.

I have already purchased the 90 degree version 3 Zero trigger set and the hop arm; I am waiting for a new cylinder stock to finish the upgrade. I tried the trigger and piston set and ran into problems.

1) The stock cylinder head just popped out of the stock cylinder during use
2) Using the Airsoft Pro spring that comes with trigger set is really hard to cock.

Based on these two issues I have a few questions:

1) Am I right to assume the thread in my cylinder or cylinder head is done for, and there is no amount of sealing with tape etc will help? Therefore I should just wait for an Airsoft Pro cylinder to come in stock.

2) I have heard Airsoft Pro springs (especially the ones that come with the set) are quite over powered and therefore hard to cock. What is the best spring I can buy that will work well with my upgrade path? I don't mind spending a little bit of money to get it right.

Asianwarchief · Jul 30, 2016

Action army m170-m150 spring. Also get the action army hop up chamber. You will achieve better results than the stock tm chamber with the airsoft pro hop up arm.

bluedust · Jul 30, 2016

Asianwarchief said:
Action army m170-m150 spring. Also get the action army hop up chamber. You will achieve better results than the stock tm chamber with the airsoft pro hop up arm.

How do Action Army springs compare to PDI? I am just asking because my store I normally order from has PDI in stock.

Reliku · Jul 30, 2016

The ASP spring is indeed ridiculously overpowered. I'd recommend an AA M150 instead :tup:

If your cylinder threads are bad however, then it is unlikely that you'll be able to use it anymore. You're probably going to need a new cylinder.

There are several other brands that offer cylinders (PDI, AA, to name a few) but they're more expensive, so that's up to you. It may be your only option for now, though.

Or you'll need to DIY yourself a solution, but repairing threads on the weak aluminium the stock cylinder is made of is gonna be tricky...

bluedust · Jul 30, 2016

I think I will try a new ASP cylinder once it is back in stock; I am concerned if I try an AA cylinder with a ASP trigger and piston I might run into compatibility problems.

SniperRecon · Aug 1, 2016

Personally if I were you, I would be focusing on the barrel-hop assembly, rather than the power supply.

But if budget is no problem, then you got some leeway.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

bluedust · Aug 1, 2016

SniperRecon said:
Personally if I were you, I would be focusing on the barrel-hop assembly, rather than the power supply.

But if budget is no problem, then you got some leeway.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Should I have left it at the stock power? It was approximately 300 FPS on .20s.

SniperRecon · Aug 1, 2016

I am not saying you have to leave it stock. Just make sure your focus is on accuracy rather than power in the BEGINNING.

From what I have read, your front assembly should be tuned first (the front assembly being the part that is responsible for accurate shots). The front being the barrel, and hop system. I would recommend getting an Action Army hop chamber with a maple leaf 70 degree diamond rubber, paired with a ml concave nub. This is the universal go to on this forum at the moment. As for the barrel; Edgi, PDI, and even Action Army are common picks for barrels. Just make sure your cylinder volume is appropriate to your barrel volume.

An exception to the "accuracy first" idea is the stock trigger. The trigger that comes with the vsr-10 is awful and will only last maybe 200 shots. It's best to upgrade the sears or even get a zero trigger, in the beginning of your upgrade process.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

bluedust · Aug 4, 2016

SniperRecon said:
I am not saying you have to leave it stock. Just make sure your focus is on accuracy rather than power in the BEGINNING.

From what I have read, your front assembly should be tuned first (the front assembly being the part that is responsible for accurate shots). The front being the barrel, and hop system. I would recommend getting an Action Army hop chamber with a maple leaf 70 degree diamond rubber, paired with a ml concave nub. This is the universal go to on this forum at the moment. As for the barrel; Edgi, PDI, and even Action Army are common picks for barrels. Just make sure your cylinder volume is appropriate to your barrel volume.

An exception to the "accuracy first" idea is the stock trigger. The trigger that comes with the vsr-10 is awful and will only last maybe 200 shots. It's best to upgrade the sears or even get a zero trigger, in the beginning of your upgrade process.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Ok I understand. Unfortunately it looks like I have ruined my stock cylinder and the airsoft pro cylinders are out of stock. Without a cylinder I can't fire a single shot. What I would love to do is just get the gun working so I can focus on the front assembly as advised. Do I wait for the cylinder or shall I choose a try the action army or pdi brands (which seem to be more reliably stocked).

Asianwarchief · Aug 4, 2016

Get the action army cylinder.

SniperRecon · Aug 5, 2016

Asianwarchief is right. AA is going to be recommended by almost everyone. If you can, buy the AA zero trigger and piston. There is an ASP trigger and piston but I am not totally sure about it. Anyway, a zero trigger will prevent your gun from slam firing and be gentler on the durability. I would also recommend getting a new Hop-up chamber as the stock one tends to have hooking issues. An AA smart chamber is the easiest to install.

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bluedust · Aug 13, 2016

I purchased an ASP cylinder because it was in stock again, and I was having trouble finding an AA one in the UK. I appreciate AA is the goto brand in this community, so once I have finished my first round of learning I will probably make an attempt to build the perfect build for my needs.

However the reason why I am reporting back is to first say thanks for the good advice and second is to explain my journey going the ASP route. I have searched this forum and I was unable to find that much information on ASP builds that would answer my questions. Here goes:

Cylinder: ASP steel (not the nickel one)
Cylinder head: ASP
Piston: ASP 90 degree *
Trigger: ASP EZ trigger v3*
Spring guide: ASP*
Spring: Laylax PSS10 150 (I think everyone agrees ASP springs are junk)
Hop: Stock with ASP hop arm
Barrel spacers: Silverback VSR-10 barrel spacers

* All part of the ASP EZ trigger set

Installation notes:
- The piston catch was rubbing against the side of the receiver, so it was not returning to its resting position; this meant the piston would often fail to catch. I widened the opening at the bottom of the receiver to allow the catch to move freely.
- The white spacer that keeps the cylinder centred in the receiver was very tight; I filed this with a circular file a tiny bit to make it move a bit more freely. The nice guys at Fire Support UK warned me about this, so I was prepared.
- The ASP cylinder is very rough making the movement in the receiver far from smooth; a bit of silicone gun oil has helped to improve the movement and the bolt action feels nice again, but could be better. I do not know how long this method will last with dirt and grit that is bound to cause problems going forward
- The hop arm fit perfectly; I did notice that the stock hop arm has a two pronged nub whereas the ASP nub is flat.
- The barrel spacers are pretty nice; I used masking tape to keep them in place and some silicone oil on the outer o-rings and inside the outer barrel to help ease them in (without the oil there was a lot of frustration and one cut on my finger ... go figure)
- I used dental floss on the bucking and teflon tape around the bucking/barrel to improve the air seal

I have not tested the rifle in my backyard yet; when I get the chance I will describe the grouping at 20 metres.

I have chrono'd the gun before and after the upgrades to the front side of the rifle (hop arm, dental floss/teflon tape mod and barrel spacers) and I was shocked with the results:

before: 395 fps .20
after: 450 fps .20

I doubt the barrel spacers had anything to do with the fps, and I am not so sure the hop arm could impact the fps either by this much. I am concluding that that in this particular case ensuring a good air seal near the bucking is making a significant difference. As I said before I was shocked; from now own I will take more time to do those little things that add up.

EDIT:
I forgot to mention that the cocking the rifle is not as hard as I thought it would, but I have left the cocked based on advice, on this forum, to break in the spring for 2-3 weeks. The trigger pull is still pretty hard

I would be very interested in comments about the following:
- using silicone old to ease the bolt action
- other people's experience with dental floss and teflon tape mods
- experiences with an improved hop arm; I will probably get a AA one soon, but I will probably upgrade the barrel at same time
- improving the hardness of the trigger pull

:shot:

The goal of my upgrade ...

bluedust

Asianwarchief

bluedust

Reliku

bluedust

SniperRecon

bluedust

SniperRecon

bluedust

Asianwarchief

SniperRecon

bluedust

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