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#22 · (Edited)
You could try the oogoo and use a hard bucking over it. The softness should actually make it more consistent, though I could be wrong. If you want though, if you add more cornstarch to the caulk it should make it harder. I say should, because I've only experimented with foaming oogoo (vinegar and baking soda), not cornstarch ratios. What style hopup do you have in there right now?

As a side note, I can't believe someone besides me uses oogoo. Where did you hear about it?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Thanks George.

Juggler, I have been doing caulk mixes for almost 10 years. I have always used water based craft paint and caulk to make silicone presses for composite molding. I read about the cornstarch deal on Instructables.

The craft paint makes a more rubbery and very durable material. I don't know why I didn't try that first. The ones I have been making have been fumed silica and silicone caulk.

Now that I am writing about it and thinking it through the paint would give a more consistent and denser cure.

Basically what I have been doing is putting a tape wrapped carbon rod in the barrel, apply the oogoo and then put a split drinking straw over it. When it cures I pull the rod out and I have a nicely shaped hop.

Paul
 
#24 ·
There was a thread not that long ago about the "j-hop". The idea is basically what you just described, but it's using any caulk you have on hand, and hasn't been tested too thoroughly. I could be wrong but i think Vindi is still doing testing on it.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
Thanks Woogie, I build RC Sailplanes for my day job so I was having a similar thought.

It makes me sad to think this but Mr Whisper may be dead.

I have done just about everything I can think of to lower the velocity and he still punches through the top of a coke can like it were made of paper.

This really upsets me because I absolutely love the feel, looks and general design of this gun. I am going to check with some airsmiths I know but this may not be doable with out machining a whole new valve system.

Paul

PS I just checked the chart I have and I may "legal" but still not where I want it for a DMR.
 
#27 ·
Is there some way to have more gas cycle the cylinder and less gas propel the bb, or is it one long circuit for the gas? I know this is really wasteful, but you might be able to divert some of the gas before it hits the bb.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
MJ, I believe I finally have it down. I can actually see BB's when they fly.

I took out my bolt spacer which made the bolt stroke longer and further reduced the volume of the dump chamber.

I removed the dust collector (what a job...), cut 2" off the barrel, and ported the last 8" of barrel.

She now airs up perfectly, would be easier to build !!!!!!! another one, I could build a CQB version if I chose to, is even quieter and more consistent.

The only issue will be feeding this beast. I am accepting ideas...

I may take a mid cap and run a tube from it into the feed on top. Not my first choice but it would work.

Thanks for all the help and encouragement as I am thrilled. I even stained the stock last night. Once I get the hop worked out this thing will be making some serious long distance calls, just a whisper though......
 
#29 · (Edited)
I'm not too sure a mid-cap would work if you use a tube to direct the bbs. Once you get down to the last of the bbs they will just be stuck in the tube, unless you had the spring from the mag push it all the way through. Other than the gravity fed style, I have no idea.

I just realized something, though it doesn't really make any difference to anything. You should actually be getting maximum short-ish range accuracy with no hop. Once the bb is shot, unless there is an external force making it change it's direction (hop), it will maintain a perfectly straight trajectory, forgetting about gravity that is.

I've been planning out building a new wooden stock for my bar10, and gunsmiths who sell these kinds of stocks use tru-oil and similar things to protect and finish the stock. Google "how to finish a gunstock" or something if you want to make it look like that.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I used brown shoe polish...lol. The wax will help protect it a little and the brown color is perfect. I will add some black as well as the jute this evening.

On the accuracy, you are right. This thing is a tack driver now that I have the internals balanced.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
IT WORKED !!!! According to the coke can Chrono I am between 450-480. I can turn the pressure up and I probably will but this is wonderful that I can cover such a wide velocity range simply by tuning the reg and the dwell.

I will try to shoot a short video this evening.

Paul
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Killer, I played with that idea. Do you know how they did the BB stop and the mag receiver side of things.

So far a basic gravity feed is the easiest to do and therefore probably the most reliable. The one I have is set up to take a speed loader and holds 25 when fully loaded (including one in the breech)

Paul
 
#34 ·
The only problem a gravity feed might have is if the bbs rattle around. I wonder if it's possible to somehow mount a mag from a bolty (like A VSR mag) to the place where you feed the bbs. I have no idea how you have it set up right now, so I can't tell you how to implement it, but the mag is somewhat flat and if you can get it to feed directly to the hopup you're golden.

The tube with a long spring is also a good idea. I expect they did something similar to a normal bolty system where there is a small 45 degree nub at the place where the bbs feed into the gun, which presses a spring loaded tab back,which will allow the bbs to pass.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I have two mags I bought purely for that purpose but doing all the machining on this version simply isn't worth it. Just placing them on top they sit up too tall.

Gen II (already being planned) will look more like a WA or DSR and I will be using mags. With the way I am building them the "plumbing" will be out of the way.

My stick feed doesn't rattle because it has a nice fit to the BB's they can slide down but they don't rattle around.

Pics to come shortly. Paul
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
RIP
It simply isn't worth it !!!

I have it so it airs up and shoots but I cannot get the BB's to fly true enough to justify all the effort I put into it.

I ported the barrel to get the FPS down. Well that gave me a cork screw BB flight so I cut the barrel down to cut off the porting.

So now it shoots straight but the BB's dive into the ground. So, I increase the Hop but now the BB's wont fire the hop stops them.

I had it close a couple of times but never quite right. At one point I had them curving upward instead of diving but that was short lived because as soon as I reduced the hop a little it was back to diving.

I am not sure what I will do. I don't really like most of the airsoft guns readily available. The ones I do like are way out of my $$ budget.

There are no semi's as elegant as what I was trying to do. AEG's make no sense to me at all.

There is one other avenue I can explore but it will be an uphill battle with all the sanctioning groups. I am not sure I am ready for that kind of effort.

Keep the BB's flying

paul
 
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