[redraptor]

Hey guys

So I recently purchased an A&K SR25 "limited edition" off Evike and I adore the way it looks, feels and fires. I have yet to really skirmish it, but for some generic target practice, im VERY impressed. Now after I become a bit more comfortable with a new gun, I tend to disassemble the main body of the gun down to the gear box(I still dont have the guts to go inside yet) and at least get to know the weapon a little better and feel comfortable taking it apart if things end up getting screwy. Now usually im good at this sort of stuff but im stuck right at the first stages of taking it apart.

I have taken the main body pin out with a little bit of difficulty but it did eventually come out. Now the front body pin is my main issue. I removed the allen screw on one side but can not for the life of me remove the pin. I have attempted EVERYTHING but it will not budge. And unless I really hunker down and twist the flat head end, it barely moves. Now is this a design flaw or am im missing something truly obvious. All I really want to do is seperate the top and bottom receiver and find all the parts that make the gun whole, but that damn pin is holding me back!! Any advice or suggestions?

I put some serious force behind the pin but Im scared I might break something some how strip the cork screw within the pin.

also I am attempting to remove the rail system from the main body but the silencer adapter is getting in the way and I do not see a simple way to remove the adapter. Here is a quick pic.

Sorry for the noobness, but it would have been nice of them to have included a blow up diagram so I could have figured it out.

 

[Wolfgeorge]

I don't own the A&K SR25 but I owned for a while the G&G, and I simply remove the pins to separate the upper from the lower receiver.

As fir the silencer adapter there must be pins in the holes so you can remove it, I guess. It a clone of the G&P SR25 and has the longer V2 gb (V2.5) and also uses SR25 gears, keep that in mind as you a
upgrade it. There's not much support in the SR25 style guns.
I'm currently waiting the G&P XM110 with the standard V2 gb so I won't have much to say to you...


Wolf

 

[redraptor]

I don't own the A&K SR25 but I owned for a while the G&G, and I simply remove the pins to separate the upper from the lower receiver.

As fir the silencer adapter there must be pins in the holes so you can remove it, I guess. It a clone of the G&P SR25 and has the longer V2 gb (V2.5) and also uses SR25 gears, keep that in mind as you a
upgrade it. There's not much support in the SR25 style guns.
I'm currently waiting the G&P XM110 with the standard V2 gb so I won't have much to say to you...

Wolf

Its odd, the back body pin took some loving to remove but now the front body pin is almost stuck within the receiver. I am able to remove the allen side without a problem, but the actual pin will not budge. I am able to twist it with GREAT pressure but it will not move out of the receiver...its very annoying. The only thing I can think is that its glued inside of the receiver, but that wouldnt make sense.

The front assembly that I want to remove seems to only have one allen screw on the bottom(The other holes are just empty holes) and that will not budge either...Im starting to regret this gun if its giving me nothing but troubles. I love the looks and performance, but its almost pointless if there is no updatability.

 

[oderfa]

I am able to twist it with GREAT pressure but it will not move out of the receiver...its very annoying.

I watched youtube review about this gun(or GG, can't relly remember) and the front pin wasn't even supposed to come out of the reciever. The rear one will.

 

[Wolfgeorge]

That can work ... Remove the rear pin and push forward the hop up unit (through the ejection port) and lift the upper receiver.


Wolf

 

[redraptor]

Do you have the link to that video? The hop up doesn't seem to move but it might with some loving...I'm just a little wary. And I could have sworn it was a clone of the ca

 

[oderfa]

Sorry, it was about GG gr25:

 

[vindicareassassin]

If I remember there are 3 cotter pins that need to be removed/hit out, plus the silencer location pin that needs to be removed aswell to get the adapter off, I cant remember if there was also a grub screw of some kind aswell....... and also the delta ring is left hand thread and VERY tight when you come to remove that :yup:

The front body pin was always tight on mine, I had to tap it in and out with a hammer (and suitable screw driver to take it out), and there is a spring that pushes the hop unit back against the GB, so be prepared for the upper to shoot forwards when you get the pin the best part out......

If you can do it all without drawing blood, you did better than I did the first time I had mine apart :doh:

 

[redraptor]

Yeah I actually solved both issues. After nearly destroying the front body pin, I was able to get it out. It required a screw driver and a hammer to knock it out. And man did it take a beating. Maybe im just a little TOO careful with my things, but banging on my new 250 dollar gun made me VERY uneasy. Needless to say, I could use a new set of body pins, but for now they work. Can I use standard M4 style pins or are they proprietary pins? And Is there a cheap place to buy them? 10 bucks plus shipping seems a little steep...

I was also able to get the gas block off(THATS WHAT IT WAS CALLED!!!) and the RIS system came off nicely. I know the one suppressor pin is needed to stay within the the gas block, but do the other cotter pins need to be? They seem almost pointless, and they are a SERIOUS pain in the ass to get back in once they are out. Right now the gas block/adapter is held together with a small allen screw and the suppressor pin, shouldnt that be all thats needed?

 

[Cheese Man]

Try milling away pieces of your $2500 build. THAT is nerve wracking.

I bet you could use a regular piece of metal for a pin. Go to the hardware store and see if you can jerry rig something.

 

[Wolfgeorge]

Cheese Man what are you building??
Give us a hint!


Wolf

 

[Dishmechanic]

You could use a slightly smaller than hole diameter rod and either a dab or two of CA, or the gap filling Lock-Tite to hold it in place, that way it will hold, but will fairly easily be able knock out the pins if you need to.

 

[1rish]

Need some help.

Hey forum. I just bought a Matrix SR25 from Evike and it wont fire. Brand new, out of the box. Fully charged batteries. Im thinking the trigger mechanism is screwed because whenever I pull said trigger, its loose as though it wasnt cocked. I was made aware by another friend that when the charging handle is pulled, its only to provide access to the hop-up adjustment and not to actually cock the weapon. Long story short, I'm curious as to whether or not I should take apart the gun and see whats wrong and attempt to fix it, or if I should send it back because its broken.

 

[cetane]

If it's broke and you can send it back, I would do just that. The matrix sr25 is rebranded JG. Not a v2.5 gearbox, but a bastardized v2.

Just my $0.02

Hey forum. I just bought a Matrix SR25 from Evike and it wont fire. Brand new, out of the box. Fully charged batteries. Im thinking the trigger mechanism is screwed because whenever I pull said trigger, its loose as though it wasnt cocked. I was made aware by another friend that when the charging handle is pulled, its only to provide access to the hop-up adjustment and not to actually cock the weapon. Long story short, I'm curious as to whether or not I should take apart the gun and see whats wrong and attempt to fix it, or if I should send it back because its broken.

 

[1tonne]

As Cetane said. It is just a Jing Gong SR25. These are good rifles but the A&K version has a longer cylinder which makes it a way better rifle to choose. See if you can send it back and swap it.

 

[1rish]

Hey everyone, small update. It turns out the fuse in the battery line blue. What I was assuming was a $200 fix, turned out to be a $2.00 fix. I apologize for wasting everyone's time.

 

[1tonne]

I cut the fuses out. They can be a pain otherwise.

 

[ArcAngel]

The front pin will start to work itself in and out easier over time. Just use a little lube on it and get yourself the right sized punch from harbor freight. If you mod it or sand it down, its going to loosen up more than you may like

 

[Zero Roaster]

I leave the fuses, but wire in an in line blade type that's easily accessible somewhere in the rifle (front handguard, stock, etc). Especially in a gun where a runaway battery, or a bare wire, or, or... can really cause problems. Fuses are cheap protection.

 

[cetane]

I leave the fuses, but wire in an in line blade type that's easily accessible somewhere in the rifle (front handguard, stock, etc). Especially in a gun where a runaway battery, or a bare wire, or, or... can really cause problems. Fuses are cheap protection.

I have usually left them out, but I recently found on amazon some 40a mini blade fuses I will start using. traditionally mini's only come in 30a but someone started pumping out 40a's so I'll try them. They're easy to make your own holder for, as it's the same size as motor connectors.