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A&K SVD (pics added)

6316 Views 28 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  ronin677
I broke down my A&K SVD last night and found the hop up adjustment grub screw is stuck. The 1.5mm hex head on it has stripped (so the allen bolt just spins) and I can't get the little blighter out.
I reckon the only solution is to drill it out and tap the hole for a larger grub screw.

Here is my question-
The hole is 3mm (I think), do I use a 3mm drill bit and a 4mm tap or do I need to use a 4mm bit and a 4mm tap?
I will be using a hand drill and whatever set of tap and dies I can find on the net for cheap.
OR
Are both my suggestions totally wrong? If this is the case, lets hear from the experts please.
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Wax didn't work, superglue didn't work, drill worked.
Ordered a 16 piece tap and die set with a 3mm - 12mm range so I should be good to go.
I have a wood kit to fit and I will be tinkering with the internals in the near future so I'll update this thread for anyone that's interested.

Thanks for the help pkidd, hidden187 and Ronin055.
Quick update on the SVD...
I drilled the allen screw out (nearly went clean through the hop unit) using a 4mm bit and a M4x0.7 or M4x0.75 tap (I can't remember off the top of my head). It has worked a treat and I now have a much more sturdy grub screw to adjust the hop.
While I had the gun in pieces, I decided to swap out the barrel for the old 6.01 from my KJW M700. It seems to work alot better in the springer than it did in the gas rifle. The inner barrel now comes right to the end of the outer barrel, probably 3 or 4 inches longer than the original.
The wood kit from airsoft panda is also fitted and has totally transformed the rigidity of the front end.
To finish it off I also got hold of a metal lo-cap mag, so no more rattling BBs everytime I move.

With all the stripping and rebuilding, I've ruined the paint on the outer barrel, so that will all need to be resprayed and the varnish on the foregrip has rubbed off from using a sandbag as a rest when target shooting...
I'll get some pics up sometime soon and do a range test for anyone interested.
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Mine was bought in the UK a few years ago.
It shoots a lot better than most of the other guns in the same price range.
AirsoftPro.cz do replacement parts for it.
It doesn't really need any upgrades to be competitive.
As for pot metal, well it's not pressed steel but you get what you pay for...
My side rail snapped due to me dropping the gun on a hardwood floor and the POSP scope clamp bit clean through it, so it's not the strongest metal known to man.
I've never heard of any other failures due to the metal used (the sear will wear out but replacements are now available).
I wouldn't buy one if you want rugged reliability, spend more and get a TM VSR 10, but
if you want to stand out from the usual L96, BAR 10 brigade then get it.
AND ignore all the internet nonsense about it being hard to cock. Unless you are a five year old girl, it's easy as any other bolt action. Although saying that, it does leave your shoulder bruised the first time you use it.
Google it, there are thousands of threads discussing this gun (a lot of it is inane rubbish about wanting to swap springs so it shoots five million fps).
I hope some of this helps.
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I took a break from painting the kitchen yesterday and thought I'd range test the SVD.
With nothing more than a piece of cut up ballpoint pen as a nub and using Devil (rebranded Madbull) .30g BBs, I'm getting straight and flat shots out to 50yards. At 60yards it starts to veer off to the right but still stays level - I'm pretty pleased with the old girl.

The whole gun needs stripped, re-painted and cleaned so I'll do a proper target test when that is all done and dusted.
5
I finally got a round to doing something with the SVD.
I partially sanded down the wood stock and re-stained it with a redder colour. While I was waiting for it to dry, I stripped the paint off the barrel assembly and repainted it matt black (First pic shows the metal work before re-painting)



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By blackfoot1 at 2011-05-22
When the paint dried out, I wet and dry sanded it to give the whole gun a more worn look.
The pics don't show it up too well.
I like it and that's what matters ;)

By blackfoot1 at 2011-05-22
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This was the only grouping I could get before the wind picked up and started gusting all over the place.
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I got the wood kit from airsoft panda. I just checked and they are now out of stock too.
***Edit***
RSOV.com have
"A.C.M real-wood kit for springer SVD Dragunov sniper rifles"
IN STOCK NOW!
$68.49 plus P&P.
The CO2 kits are totally unregulated and from what I've heard, are seriuosly inconsistent. When I first saw/heard of them I was quite excited (not sure why, it's not like it makes it semi-auto or anything), but I haven't read a good review yet.
I'm happy with the way the A&K SVD shoots as a springer. I absolutely hate the sound of AEG's firing semi-auto (asthmatic whirring and weasing) which is why I wouldn't buy a Real Sword SVD.
WE Tech will eventually (hopefully) release a GBB SVD and then the world will be changed for the better, forever!
So that's what that was; a GBB SVD? I found these pics on evike's facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.216716331679332.64351.169537669730532#

I wonder how it will be. If it's as good as and compatible with VSR barrels/buckings like they're GBB M14, then it should be really nice.[/quote]

I didn't even know there was a new SVD on the horizon, I was just wishing out loud...
If that (in the facebook link) is a GBB SVD I am going to sh#t myself with pure joy.
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That video is a whole world of win. I had no idea Ares made so many guns... That SL8/9 rail system thing looks a bit special and the SVDS has defo' gone on my "to buy" list.
***Update on my SVD***
I ordered a Prometheus hard bucking (for no apparent reason), so I'll try it in the SVD and my KJW M700 and try the Firefly out of the M700 in the SVD... See if anything good comes of it.
How do I tell which version I have?
Finally got round to doing something about my damaged side rail.
The clamp on the scope had bitten clean through it. The only way I could get it to stay on was to slide the scope on half way and clamp it before the break. It worked fine, but it ruined the eye relief of the scope and I was a bit worried it would snap off the rest of the rail too.
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