Dude! 350 feet! Have you measured it? wow. Nice gun man.Wonko The Sane said:I've actually been a member of CA for some time.
Regarding a LRB, LRB's are more for range than precision accuracy. Thus why they work wonders in full auto BV guns. With a Bullet Valve gun you can unload 50-60 rounds in a second or two and just create a wall of BB's coming at you at a 100yrds away, but when you just shooting one single BB, the standard rubber hop style (SCS to classic users) will always give tighter groupings.
Currently I can engage someone comfortably in the 350ft mark, but this is because I am limited to only using .27's due to there smaller size. Normal BB's will not roll freely through the inner barrel because it is so tight, thus making them fly out the barrel in any direction when trying to apply hop up. Although if not tonight then tomorrow I will be polishing the barrel until regular sized BB's will roll freely, hopefully this allow some .40's or heavier and allow me to be able to push my range to 400ft. Hopefully.
A look into the Rare Asahi WA-2000 Dx
17
Well, I decided to take some photos of my Asahi and put together a take down guide for a rifle that virtually no one has
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Figured I would take some pictures of the rifle being disassembled.
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First thing needed to be done is to removed the butt plate, to do so the bottom adjustment screw needs to be undone and the top one loosened. Then it just slides out.
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Once that is done, the cheek piece can come off. Top adjustment screw can now be taken off, holding it on is just a square nut. Then the single screw on top of the cheek piece is all that is left holding it on.
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Next to be done before removing the side panels is to removed the forward furniture, to do so 2 screw need to be removed. Under this is where the 8.4v Mini is held.
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Now the side panels can be removed, 5 screws and 1 in the charging handle needs to be removed to do so.
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Since all I am trying to do is lift the upper square tubing piece, only the 2 top screws on the rear right panel are removed.
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Same with the panels up front, only the top screw is removed.
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Only thing holding the upper piece on now is a screw inside the square tubing.
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Now the piece just lifts up and is free.
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Now the outer barrel can just be screwed off from the barrel nut.
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The brass colored hole on the right is where the pieces to apply hop up go. This is were the screw that originally held the inner barrel was. Kinda lucky that the placement of this hole is in quite literally the perfect place to be used to apply hop up.
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Here is the piece that applies pressure on the bucking and the screw to adjust the amount of pressure.
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Lastly, here is the barrel that has been modified to use the VSR bucking that is on it. The thick outer sleeve needed to have a section trimmed off, and then with files a VSR cut was made to the inner barrel. I would of taken the bucking off to show the cut, but the bucking has been sealed on with silicon glue. I didn't feel like peeling it off for a picture just to seal it back on a few minutes later.
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To the left is the solenoids piston, and the little spring that fits in an indention on the back of the piston. The piston is a solid piece of magnetic metal with a little rubber disk on the front (Which is facing left). The piece on the right is what is used to tune how long the piston lets gas through, tighter it is screwed in, the less space the piston has to move back, and the faster it starts it way back forward blocking gas flow. Screw it out some, piston has a longer travel allowing for more gas to flow through increasing FPS without having to increase PSI on the regulator.
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Here is the rubber disk on the front of the piston, all it does is create a seal on the back of the loading nozzle, very very simple process on how it allows gas to flow into the barrel.
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That's it for the WA-2000. Doubt to many people need this guide to take their WA-2000's apart
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Figured people would like to just look at the pictures though
Figured I would take some pictures of the rifle being disassembled.
First thing needed to be done is to removed the butt plate, to do so the bottom adjustment screw needs to be undone and the top one loosened. Then it just slides out.
Once that is done, the cheek piece can come off. Top adjustment screw can now be taken off, holding it on is just a square nut. Then the single screw on top of the cheek piece is all that is left holding it on.
Next to be done before removing the side panels is to removed the forward furniture, to do so 2 screw need to be removed. Under this is where the 8.4v Mini is held.
Now the side panels can be removed, 5 screws and 1 in the charging handle needs to be removed to do so.
Since all I am trying to do is lift the upper square tubing piece, only the 2 top screws on the rear right panel are removed.
Same with the panels up front, only the top screw is removed.
Only thing holding the upper piece on now is a screw inside the square tubing.
Now the piece just lifts up and is free.
Now the outer barrel can just be screwed off from the barrel nut.
The brass colored hole on the right is where the pieces to apply hop up go. This is were the screw that originally held the inner barrel was. Kinda lucky that the placement of this hole is in quite literally the perfect place to be used to apply hop up.
Here is the piece that applies pressure on the bucking and the screw to adjust the amount of pressure.
Lastly, here is the barrel that has been modified to use the VSR bucking that is on it. The thick outer sleeve needed to have a section trimmed off, and then with files a VSR cut was made to the inner barrel. I would of taken the bucking off to show the cut, but the bucking has been sealed on with silicon glue. I didn't feel like peeling it off for a picture just to seal it back on a few minutes later.
To the left is the solenoids piston, and the little spring that fits in an indention on the back of the piston. The piston is a solid piece of magnetic metal with a little rubber disk on the front (Which is facing left). The piece on the right is what is used to tune how long the piston lets gas through, tighter it is screwed in, the less space the piston has to move back, and the faster it starts it way back forward blocking gas flow. Screw it out some, piston has a longer travel allowing for more gas to flow through increasing FPS without having to increase PSI on the regulator.
Here is the rubber disk on the front of the piston, all it does is create a seal on the back of the loading nozzle, very very simple process on how it allows gas to flow into the barrel.
That's it for the WA-2000. Doubt to many people need this guide to take their WA-2000's apart
Figured people would like to just look at the pictures though
