A look into the Rare Asahi WA-2000 Dx

7987 Views 31 Replies 11 Participants Last post by zulu, Mar 26, 2010

wonkothesane

Discussion Starter · Mar 7, 2010

Well, I decided to take some photos of my Asahi and put together a take down guide for a rifle that virtually no one has

Figured I would take some pictures of the rifle being disassembled.

First thing needed to be done is to removed the butt plate, to do so the bottom adjustment screw needs to be undone and the top one loosened. Then it just slides out.

Once that is done, the cheek piece can come off. Top adjustment screw can now be taken off, holding it on is just a square nut. Then the single screw on top of the cheek piece is all that is left holding it on.

Next to be done before removing the side panels is to removed the forward furniture, to do so 2 screw need to be removed. Under this is where the 8.4v Mini is held.

Now the side panels can be removed, 5 screws and 1 in the charging handle needs to be removed to do so.

Since all I am trying to do is lift the upper square tubing piece, only the 2 top screws on the rear right panel are removed.

Same with the panels up front, only the top screw is removed.

Only thing holding the upper piece on now is a screw inside the square tubing.

Now the piece just lifts up and is free.

Now the outer barrel can just be screwed off from the barrel nut.

The brass colored hole on the right is where the pieces to apply hop up go. This is were the screw that originally held the inner barrel was. Kinda lucky that the placement of this hole is in quite literally the perfect place to be used to apply hop up.

Here is the piece that applies pressure on the bucking and the screw to adjust the amount of pressure.

Lastly, here is the barrel that has been modified to use the VSR bucking that is on it. The thick outer sleeve needed to have a section trimmed off, and then with files a VSR cut was made to the inner barrel. I would of taken the bucking off to show the cut, but the bucking has been sealed on with silicon glue. I didn't feel like peeling it off for a picture just to seal it back on a few minutes later.

To the left is the solenoids piston, and the little spring that fits in an indention on the back of the piston. The piston is a solid piece of magnetic metal with a little rubber disk on the front (Which is facing left). The piece on the right is what is used to tune how long the piston lets gas through, tighter it is screwed in, the less space the piston has to move back, and the faster it starts it way back forward blocking gas flow. Screw it out some, piston has a longer travel allowing for more gas to flow through increasing FPS without having to increase PSI on the regulator.

Here is the rubber disk on the front of the piston, all it does is create a seal on the back of the loading nozzle, very very simple process on how it allows gas to flow into the barrel.

That's it for the WA-2000. Doubt to many people need this guide to take their WA-2000's apart

Figured people would like to just look at the pictures though

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wonkothesane

Discussion Starter · #21 · Mar 16, 2010

Livonia said:
The ARES is A copy of the Geneth WA2000, spring bolt action capable of APS2 parts as well. The Geneth has more of A place in my heart than the Asahi, due to no electronic servo bullshit and consistency.

Unless you live somewhere that the temperature stays the same, with little modification, the ARES/Geneth will out preform the Asahi any day.

Has anyone heard about the Asahi Blaser R93 before? Another rare gun with A much better wrap than their WA2000.

http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=3117

Heh, the "electronic servo bullshit stuff", gives me the exact same FPS reading. Every time. All the time. No matter the temperature....

As for the Geneth, have you ever messed around one? I have. The wood on it is NO WHERE NEAR the quality of the Asahi's. There is a bar that runs foward of the reciever panel ruining the look. Another thing, when a spring that pushes past 500FPS/.20 the toggle on the rifle is almost impossible to pull back. Think of it as being like the SVD, only with an area to pull half the size than the SVD bolt handle.

The Blaser R93's are very nice, I wish I bought the last one I handled, but I didn't have the 2500$ at the time for it

...I'm sorry man, but don't compare two rifles when you have never even handled either.

As far as caring about the Ares one, I could care less about it. It will never have the value as a hand machined piece from a company that only made 125 of them in 1993. If ares ever finally comes out with theirs, it will be no different than other rifle out there.

One last thing, my age was brought up earlier, I would just like to state that I have never received outside funding for my rifles. I work and pay for everything I own.

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Livonia

· #22 · Mar 22, 2010

I'm not intentionally dogging your gun, its obviously rare and precious for a reason, so please do not think that. I wouldn't have created this forum if I had no knowledge of how the different types of Airsoft replicas work. Everything I'm saying comes down to physics, and the expansion of gas at certain temperatures. You would never be able to use the Asahi effectively in below 40* degree temperatures and that is a fact.
I live in Michigan, and you live in Texas, I have seen condensation form on the inside of an APS2's bolt, causing freezing vapor to exit the barrel destroying any chance of a descent shot. ANY type of gas gun would be useless in these temperatures after no more than five quick shots.

You are right about me never handling these replicas, but I know plenty well enough about how they work and I know gas rifles do not make good fieldable replicas, this is why I have been building my Maruzen non stop for three years. No matter what kind of technology you have in your gun, I can promise you it will never be as consistent as the simple spring, piston, and cylinder design. Unless you live somewhere the temperature never changes a bit.

What you have should be left on the shelf for pictures and hands only. Replicas would still use this technology if it were any better than an AEG or Spring rifle. I get down and dirty, and don't give a shit about throwing my two thousand dollar springer into a pool of muck. That's what I consider a true, fieldable rifle, in which a UTG L96 or clone VSR would be more useful to me in a Fall/Winter game than the Asahi WA2000.

Target shooting and actually fielding the rifle are complete and opposite things. You cannot comfortably take all your goodies on the field to nurse your gas rifle throughout the whole game. This is the soul reason I will never buy another.

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wonkothesane

Discussion Starter · #23 · Mar 23, 2010

Livonia said:
You would never be able to use the Asahi effectively in below 40* degree temperatures and that is a fact.
I live in Michigan, and you live in Texas, I have seen condensation form on the inside of an APS2's bolt, causing freezing vapor to exit the barrel destroying any chance of a descent shot. ANY type of gas gun would be useless in these temperatures after no more than five quick shots.

Actually, my 100% shot to hit ratio at a standing person at a measured 80 yards was done in freezing weather. The rifle has the option of being run on internal gas (useless) or externally. I run compressed air, which is unaffected by the temperature. The only limit I have on how cold it can be to use the rifle is how cold of temperature the hop up bucking can handle. I'm not trying to sound like a dick, but while a spring rifle can get pretty damn consistent, it will never give the exact same FPS every shot. Only reason I don't use my WA2000 as a regular skirmish piece is because I am to worried about damaging the wood furniture. If it wasn't for that then it would be my every game rifle.

As far as being more reliable, if I was crazy enough, I could dip my rifle in a pool of sandy water too and it would still be fine. There is only one moving external part, the loading nozzle, and one moving internal part that is sealed inside the solenoid unit.

I have owned many spring rifles, Maruzen, Tokyo Marui, TSD, and JG, all upgraded with complete laylax, PDI, or Polarstar parts. While they all clocked in at 1-3 FPS from the last shot, none of them clocked an entire mag reading the same fps every shot.

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bonzo

· #24 · Mar 24, 2010

Very cool

I've been playing with the idea of making a drop in gas bolt for my M40 using a solenoid valve for a while. I love how well it works now on spring but after fondling a Tanaka AICS, I want that bolt. Spring guns are great because of their simplicity but still lack the easy bolt pull and the bolt tends to attract dirt and any gritty feeling in the bolt, I stop using it. A solenoid valve would require very, very little maintenance and would be very rugged.

After seeing the Asahi design, I think it's ideal for a solenoid drop in bolt replacement. A further step would be fitting the solenoid valve into a shortened bolt and bringing the mag back to the real position. The rifle could be shortened significantly without sacrificing performance.

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woogie

· #25 · Mar 24, 2010

I have thought about the same bonzo. Would make for a very nice rifle set up. I always had the idea of running it like a PCP air rifle

Can keep the air tank inside the rifle, as in the WA inside the forgrip.

Would be really cool

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mateba

· #26 · Mar 24, 2010

Guys, I think some of you missing the point. This is THE HOLY GRAIL of airsoft. Its elctro-pneumatic solenoid system allows for incredible consistency with gas. I forget how many where made, less than 300 and only half of those where "DX" DELUXE. This is an extrodinarily rare replica. The last time Asahi produced any of their models was in 1993 and its quite possible that this WA is older than than a good number of you.

You have a bad-ass replica. I can't imagine any real flaw to owning it besides being phobic of scratching it. Thank you for the post. Not sure if you ever considered a LRB but the classicairsoft forum would love to have you if you are not already member.

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wonkothesane

Discussion Starter · #27 · Mar 24, 2010

I've actually been a member of CA for some time.

Regarding a LRB, LRB's are more for range than precision accuracy. Thus why they work wonders in full auto BV guns. With a Bullet Valve gun you can unload 50-60 rounds in a second or two and just create a wall of BB's coming at you at a 100yrds away, but when you just shooting one single BB, the standard rubber hop style (SCS to classic users) will always give tighter groupings.

Currently I can engage someone comfortably in the 350ft mark, but this is because I am limited to only using .27's due to there smaller size. Normal BB's will not roll freely through the inner barrel because it is so tight, thus making them fly out the barrel in any direction when trying to apply hop up. Although if not tonight then tomorrow I will be polishing the barrel until regular sized BB's will roll freely, hopefully this allow some .40's or heavier and allow me to be able to push my range to 400ft. Hopefully.

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josh

· #28 · Mar 25, 2010

Wonko The Sane said:
I've actually been a member of CA for some time.

Regarding a LRB, LRB's are more for range than precision accuracy. Thus why they work wonders in full auto BV guns. With a Bullet Valve gun you can unload 50-60 rounds in a second or two and just create a wall of BB's coming at you at a 100yrds away, but when you just shooting one single BB, the standard rubber hop style (SCS to classic users) will always give tighter groupings.

Currently I can engage someone comfortably in the 350ft mark, but this is because I am limited to only using .27's due to there smaller size. Normal BB's will not roll freely through the inner barrel because it is so tight, thus making them fly out the barrel in any direction when trying to apply hop up. Although if not tonight then tomorrow I will be polishing the barrel until regular sized BB's will roll freely, hopefully this allow some .40's or heavier and allow me to be able to push my range to 400ft. Hopefully.

Dude! 350 feet! Have you measured it? wow. Nice gun man.

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wonkothesane

Discussion Starter · #29 · Mar 25, 2010

Measured with a 300ft open reel style measuring tape.

Polished the barrel for some time last night, closer to being to have .29's or .40's roll freely through, but still just not quite there. .27's are still the only usable BB.

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zulu

· #30 · Mar 25, 2010

What barrel do you have in there? I'm rather ignorant of Asahis to be perfectly honest.

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wonkothesane

Discussion Starter · #31 · Mar 26, 2010

The barrel is just the old original barrel that has been polished multiple times. I guess you could consider it a tightbore considering the fact that only Bioval .27's will roll through because of there small size.

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zulu

· #32 · Mar 26, 2010

Well it seems like you've got it tuned to a dime already, but you could contact EdGI about getting a custom barrel made for the thing.

Also, are you getting 100% airseal with that silicone sealant/glue (I assume so, with +/- 0)? I finally got a bucking whipping done and it seems to be performing great, but this seems like a pretty simple and effective (read: fast) way to achieve similar results. It'd be great if vindi could chime in (hint hint), because I'm sure he's experimented with it.

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