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Hi all, I thought I would write down a little adventure log of my experience building a vsr10 for the first time. Noting some things that I would've liked to know ahead of time, (and potentially save me some cash). I'm aiming for 2.3J with 0.43g BB's. Working on this has been a breeze compared to an V2 M4 aside from a couple minor annoyances. Easy to get familiar with, quick to take apart. My blood pressure is saved for now. I hope this post will help someone!

Parts list
JG Bar 10 (full length)
Action army twisted cylinder/cylinder head
SCW 90° piston/spring guide
TTI Airsoft trigger
TTI Airsoft hopup chamber
Maple leaf MR hop/autobot 2021 bucking (experimentation needed)
Stalker Panthera Concave nub set
Rapax RMS 2J+ spring
Maple leaf crazy jet 6.04 430mm barrel
Homemade masking tape barrel spacers

A couple things I noticed
The piston o-ring is so far forward it crashes into the obsolete threads in the cylinder, causing it to be destroyed very quickly. I'm thinking about solving it with some sorbo/rubber on the cylinder head, sacrificing the cylinder:barrel volume ratio. Although i'm not sure how much it actually matters.

The cylinders edges are razor sharp out of the box, it cuts into both o-rings. Together with the unnecessary threads I'm not too pleased about the quality/price ratio out of the box :/

Another issue was that the tiny o-ring on the front of the piston nearly fits into the 'funnel' in the cylinder head. This causes the edge of the funnel to hit the middle of that oring right on the edge. Over time I predict this will cause it to wear a bit quicker since its utilizing only half of the already small o-ring. Again could be solved with some sorbo/rubber.

The screws that came with the TTI trigger were too narrow for the bar 10's receiver, had to enlarge the holes in the trigger to fit the screws from the stock trigger. Then it turned out the screws from the stock trigger were too short, so I had to buy some 4x10mm screws for it.

The little diagonal screw things in the TTI chamber that hold the bb in place while cocking are very easily damaged by the cylinder head, they don't get pushed up as easy as necessary and it makes pushing the bolt back into the chamber a bit clunky. I'm hoping this isn't going to be an issue in the future as the cylinder head makes itself fit by slowly grinding those 'screws' that hold the bb. Could potentially cause feeding issues if it wears down so much the bbs can escape. Still have to look into if I can make them sit slightly higher up to make space.

Maybe this is a known fact, but I haven't seen it yet on this forum. I noticed you can mount the scope rail so that the front screw presses into the outer barrel. this does a pretty decent job at stabilizing it and it feels pretty solid compared to just having the screw on the bottom. Which is way too wobbly. Have to be careful not to tighten too much as it could damage the outer barrel.

I had to modify the trigger guard by cutting off the front bit which would latch on the stock trigger. It was preventing the TTI trigger from catching the piston as the guard was preventing the latch from moving down.

Results

All in all I had alot of fun building this. Airseal is perfect without any additional work which is nice. Very pleased with the Joule level (spread could be a bit better though), however I'm not cutting the spring yet, as this was measured with minimum hop applied. I will have to borrow a friends big backyard so I can check where the J is at with the desired flightpath and if the accuracy is decent enough for a skirm.
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They're pricey, but I love the laylax vsr sorbo kit. Barely loses any energy, at 430mm ur overvolumed anyways, and super easy to install. Once installed, u'll never have to worry about parts breaking/scratching again.
 
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