[fuzzywolly]

Just wanted to hear your thoughts on this. I currently have a TM chamber that refuses to apply much hop to my bbs. The arm just does not seem to apply enough pressure, so I added a standard AEG nubbin to the mix.

Have yet to test it out (maybe tomorrow), and just wanted some input on this.

 

[metallicafatcat]

I thought all hop up chambers used a bucking and nub combo ???

 

[woogie]

Best thing that you can do is just try it man.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Best thing that you can do is just try it man.

I get the sp130 spring tomorrow so I will test it shortly. Just wanted to see what kind of input I would be getting here.

I am crossing my fingers.

And Cat, I just learned the TM did not.

 

[wolfbattlecry]

I was inside my VSR's hop-up chamber today trying to add some aluminum foil shims(TM precision unit, if that makes a difference), noticed the little divot in the hop-up arm, and recall thinking to myself "huh... You could probably fit an AEG hop-up nub pretty snugly in there...".

I've also noticed that the rifle doesn't seem to hop heavier BBs too well (I stick to .28s and .3s mostly as a result), so I'm very curious to see what results you get with the addition of a nub. Currently, I have to go back in and take out the shims anyway, as I did something wrong and now my shots are curving right. :

Thread bookmarked.

 

[fuzzywolly]

I actually just figured out the problem or at least I think I did. Turns out, the small slit on the bucking that goes through the hop up chamber shell, was not aligned 100% correctly. This resulted in the bucking being squished to the point where it was condensed and some parts of the bucking no longer had contact with the barrel, and allows for air to sneak by, as well as bbs having a more difficult time making there way through the bucking.

So before I try to use the nub, I am going to test things out with the bucking 100% aligned correctly.

And yeah, the reason I had asked was because an AEG nubbin looks like it actually belongs there, it is a pretty snug fit. Although I did not notice much more added pressure on the bucking with it in there. I think a PDI nubbin would serve a much better result, more consistent shots, and can be cut down easily to the perfect size.

 

[l96ninja]

I was inside my VSR's hop-up chamber today trying to add some aluminum foil shims(TM precision unit, if that makes a difference), noticed the little divot in the hop-up arm, and recall thinking to myself "huh... You could probably fit an AEG hop-up nub pretty snugly in there...".

I've also noticed that the rifle doesn't seem to hop heavier BBs too well (I stick to .28s and .3s mostly as a result), so I'm very curious to see what results you get with the addition of a nub. Currently, I have to go back in and take out the shims anyway, as I did something wrong and now my shots are curving right. :

Thread bookmarked.

I also found that my TM Precision Chamber had a hard time hopping .30's, even then they weren't reaching their maximum potential. I noticed that the "fangs" weren't as long as the ones on my stock JG arm. I replaced the arm, and got a bit more hopup.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Interesting stuff, can I get a pic of a JG bar 10 hop up arm in comparison to the TM or did you part with your rifle? (I remember you selling some stuff)

If this is the case, perhaps buying the JG hop up unit off evike for $12 would be a good deal. Although there are mods (got one from Ct Man) that deal with giving the fangs more length.

 

[wolfbattlecry]

[quote author=wolfbattlecry board=vsrclone thread=3092 post=27308 time=1311132962]I was inside my VSR's hop-up chamber today trying to add some aluminum foil shims(TM precision unit, if that makes a difference), noticed the little divot in the hop-up arm, and recall thinking to myself "huh... You could probably fit an AEG hop-up nub pretty snugly in there...".

Hey Rick, thanks for pointing that out. I always figured that the TM precision chamber was the the "top of the line" VSR hop-up chamber out there. Haven't heard much on the PDI and I don't see too much raving going on about the Laylax NEO. I could just have missed it at some point though.

If all I need to do is replace the arm to get a bit more hop, I'll probably be scouring eBay relatively soon. Though I'm still curious about sticking a nub in there and seeing how it goes.

Hell, I might also be able to stick a lined piece of index card right along the arm's slot to push it down an extra millimeter or so during adjustments. Alex, I remember seeing your pictures over on C3, and I noticed you did exactly that. Any word and how it affected your hop?

 

[fuzzywolly]

Hell, I might also be able to stick a lined piece of index card right along the arm's slot to push it down an extra millimeter or so during adjustments. Alex, I remember seeing your pictures over on C3, and I noticed you did exactly that. Any word and how it affected your hop?

Right before I was about to assemble the chamber, I realized the Elmer's glue was in fact too weak and once the adjustment piece was placed inside of the arm, the paper shim started coming off of the arm, and was loose, and finally fell off.

To fix this, I took the elmer's glue off, and added some Shoe Goo (all I had). The result is much stronger bond to the arm. However, I have not yet tested it out, as I am giving the Shoe Goo 24 hours to fully dry.

And your thoughts are correct or at least similar to mine.

The idea of that shim is to prevent easy wiggles and movement of the arm when you don't want it to. However, it also puts more pressure on the arm, which then leads to more pressure on the bucking itself. This small extra bit will surely help with your hop.

In addition, make sure the bucking is in there perfect. The small slit needs to be aligned correctly. The result if it is done poorly will be not much hop (barely enough for hop on .28g bb at max setting), as well as curve right, or at least that was the case in my experience.

 

[wolfbattlecry]

Darn. And here I was yesterday swearing up, down, left, and right I wouldn't be opening that rifle again for another week. Well, time to break out the tools and Reese's Pieces.

 

[l96ninja]

[quote author=wolfbattlecry board=vsrclone thread=3092 post=27308 time=1311132962]I was inside my VSR's hop-up chamber today trying to add some aluminum foil shims(TM precision unit, if that makes a difference), noticed the little divot in the hop-up arm, and recall thinking to myself "huh... You could probably fit an AEG hop-up nub pretty snugly in there...".

Hey Rick, thanks for pointing that out. I always figured that the TM precision chamber was the the "top of the line" VSR hop-up chamber out there. Haven't heard much on the PDI and I don't see too much raving going on about the Laylax NEO. I could just have missed it at some point though.

If all I need to do is replace the arm to get a bit more hop, I'll probably be scouring eBay relatively soon. Though I'm still curious about sticking a nub in there and seeing how it goes.

Why scour eBay? I'd be willing to bet someone's got a stock JG arm that they would be more than happy to give you at a game.

As for the different hopups on the market, I was never impressed with my PDI chamber, and I've heard that the Laylax "air-seal" chamber is a waste, no better than stock and still can get leaks. I've also owned a Noobie's TDC kit w/ TruFit Bucking system, and although it gave me great compression, I was never impressed with it's performance. In my own opinion, the best combination is a TM precision with the stock bucking and a TDC modification, with a screw on top used to adjust the hopup rather than the lever style.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Copied and pasted from my VSR project thread:

After re-shimming the hop up as in re-glueing, I found shoe goo to be more sturdy and strong compared to the Elmer's glue. However, the shim on the arm likes to come undone simply because it is a tight fit, and to move it takes some force causing the shim to slowly "peel" off. But with the piece applying pressure to the arm, it causes the shim to stay in place enough to do its job.

Onto the results....

A few changes have been made to the rifle. This includes...

1. SP 130 spring--CT man was right. Bolt pull is a piece of cake! I love the Sp 130 spring in there, and will never put a new one in. Absolutely amazing, so much easier and you will soon find out I am getting some very good range.

2. Cylinder unit: Cleaned this thing many many times for hours. Nice and shiny..

3. Shimmed hop up...duh

4. Bucking: I carefully made sure it went in the slot correctly. Before, it was slightly off, and caused the chamber to compress and squish the bucking. This resulted in no hop shots.

The results:

I only took a few shots with .28s, but I was getting some serious range off into the woods, and very nice and straight shots. The best part is, my hop up is set half way, meaning I could carry some heavier bbs if desired.

Extremely happy with the results. I mastered the l96, and am currently on my way to mastering the VSR. Special thanks to SVT Cobra for the great shim guide!

 

[blackfoot1]

Fuzzy, you just jinxed your VSR project big time with the last line of that post lol.
I have a VSR on it's way, should be here in a day or two. I'll be trying all these mods.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Fuzzy, you just jinxed your VSR project big time with the last line of that post lol.
I have a VSR on it's way, should be here in a day or two. I'll be trying all these mods.

Let's hope I didn't!

 

[blackfoot1]

I had a look at what I thought was a TM VSR exploded drawing, turns out it was for a VSR 11...
Anyway, in the hop up diagram, there was a nubbin sitting below the hop arm.
I thought it was odd that a clone would have it, but the original TM doesn't (I haven't seen the TM exploded diagram yet).

 

[dazz666]

If you want to use 0.32 ammo or higher this is what you need to do:

Cut a bit of biro pen inner tube and glue it between the prongs of the hop lever. A cut of cocktail stick will do the same!!!

Make sure it's all level.

Job done. You should now get enough lift for upto .43 bbs.

Whilst youre at it. Wrap ptfe tape around the end of the hop rubber onto the barrel to create a better air seal.

Works every tome for me!

 

[blackfoot1]

Whilst youre at it. Wrap ptfe tape around the end of the hop rubber onto the barrel to create a better air seal.

Works every tome for me!

It's commonly called the "teflon mod" or "teflon tape mod"...
Now go make an intro post in the Beginners Section before you get chased by an angry mod' weilding a smiting stick.

 

[scar527]

I would like to second(or third?) using the JG bar-10 lever in the TM. I compared the arms side by side, and the JG "prongs" are indeed about 1mm to 1 1/2mm longer. With the current spring I have in there(500-550 fps), I could not overhop a .36. I swapped the arm and now can overhop with the arm 1/3-1/2 on. No loss of accuracy what so ever.

Scar

 

[fuzzywolly]

How is the consistency Scar? Any curving problems?

I have been working with a PCS mod, but should be able to get my hands onto a bar 10 arm soon. Will see how that goes.