[fuzzywolly]

Just wanted to hear your thoughts on this. I currently have a TM chamber that refuses to apply much hop to my bbs. The arm just does not seem to apply enough pressure, so I added a standard AEG nubbin to the mix.

Have yet to test it out (maybe tomorrow), and just wanted some input on this.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Best thing that you can do is just try it man.

I get the sp130 spring tomorrow so I will test it shortly. Just wanted to see what kind of input I would be getting here.

I am crossing my fingers.

And Cat, I just learned the TM did not.

 

[fuzzywolly]

I actually just figured out the problem or at least I think I did. Turns out, the small slit on the bucking that goes through the hop up chamber shell, was not aligned 100% correctly. This resulted in the bucking being squished to the point where it was condensed and some parts of the bucking no longer had contact with the barrel, and allows for air to sneak by, as well as bbs having a more difficult time making there way through the bucking.

So before I try to use the nub, I am going to test things out with the bucking 100% aligned correctly.

And yeah, the reason I had asked was because an AEG nubbin looks like it actually belongs there, it is a pretty snug fit. Although I did not notice much more added pressure on the bucking with it in there. I think a PDI nubbin would serve a much better result, more consistent shots, and can be cut down easily to the perfect size.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Interesting stuff, can I get a pic of a JG bar 10 hop up arm in comparison to the TM or did you part with your rifle? (I remember you selling some stuff)

If this is the case, perhaps buying the JG hop up unit off evike for $12 would be a good deal. Although there are mods (got one from Ct Man) that deal with giving the fangs more length.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Hell, I might also be able to stick a lined piece of index card right along the arm's slot to push it down an extra millimeter or so during adjustments. Alex, I remember seeing your pictures over on C3, and I noticed you did exactly that. Any word and how it affected your hop?

Right before I was about to assemble the chamber, I realized the Elmer's glue was in fact too weak and once the adjustment piece was placed inside of the arm, the paper shim started coming off of the arm, and was loose, and finally fell off.

To fix this, I took the elmer's glue off, and added some Shoe Goo (all I had). The result is much stronger bond to the arm. However, I have not yet tested it out, as I am giving the Shoe Goo 24 hours to fully dry.

And your thoughts are correct or at least similar to mine.

The idea of that shim is to prevent easy wiggles and movement of the arm when you don't want it to. However, it also puts more pressure on the arm, which then leads to more pressure on the bucking itself. This small extra bit will surely help with your hop.

In addition, make sure the bucking is in there perfect. The small slit needs to be aligned correctly. The result if it is done poorly will be not much hop (barely enough for hop on .28g bb at max setting), as well as curve right, or at least that was the case in my experience.

 

[fuzzywolly]

Copied and pasted from my VSR project thread:

After re-shimming the hop up as in re-glueing, I found shoe goo to be more sturdy and strong compared to the Elmer's glue. However, the shim on the arm likes to come undone simply because it is a tight fit, and to move it takes some force causing the shim to slowly "peel" off. But with the piece applying pressure to the arm, it causes the shim to stay in place enough to do its job.

Onto the results....

A few changes have been made to the rifle. This includes...

1. SP 130 spring--CT man was right. Bolt pull is a piece of cake! I love the Sp 130 spring in there, and will never put a new one in. Absolutely amazing, so much easier and you will soon find out I am getting some very good range.

2. Cylinder unit: Cleaned this thing many many times for hours. Nice and shiny..

3. Shimmed hop up...duh

4. Bucking: I carefully made sure it went in the slot correctly. Before, it was slightly off, and caused the chamber to compress and squish the bucking. This resulted in no hop shots.

The results:

I only took a few shots with .28s, but I was getting some serious range off into the woods, and very nice and straight shots. The best part is, my hop up is set half way, meaning I could carry some heavier bbs if desired.

Extremely happy with the results. I mastered the l96, and am currently on my way to mastering the VSR. Special thanks to SVT Cobra for the great shim guide!

 

[fuzzywolly]

Fuzzy, you just jinxed your VSR project big time with the last line of that post lol.
I have a VSR on it's way, should be here in a day or two. I'll be trying all these mods.

Let's hope I didn't!

 

[fuzzywolly]

How is the consistency Scar? Any curving problems?

I have been working with a PCS mod, but should be able to get my hands onto a bar 10 arm soon. Will see how that goes.

 

[fuzzywolly]

I kind of drifted from this thread, but long story short, here is what I did over a few weeks span:

1. PCS Mod:

Copied and pasted from a while back in my VSR project thread:http://www.c3airsoft.com/showthread.php/vsr-10-project-thread-25460p2.html

Round One:

To start off the morning, I installed the PCS and put the rifle together, noticing a significantly large bulge inside of the rifle. It was slightly crooked but I decided to give it a whirl anyways. Keep in mind, the shim on the arm is still installed, so expect HUGEEE hop or jam right away.

Now with that said, keep in mind, I don't exactly have the luck of the irish, and my four leaf clover is still in my jeans from yesterday, so I was on my own for this one. Went outside, took a shot, and guess what...? Jam..

Round Two:

Decided to do a bit more filing, nothing too significant. Then I removed the shim on the hop up arm. With the PCS, getting hop is not a problem. So no need for extra hop up due to a shim on the arm. With that removed, much easier to install pieces on top/inside gap on arm.

Went out for a test shot, using .3s, and about 15-20% hop up on. The bb flew up a good 60 feet in the air. Very very large amount of hop on that one. I didn't even bother adjusting the hop up for .3s, as it was time to get the big boys out.

Got out the ol' madbull .4s, and gave her a go. Took some shots, with about 10% hop up on, and they're flying. A tad bit curve to the left but not near as bad of a curve as before, where you could literally hit a guy hiding behind a tree...

Overall: Ended up getting too much hop to handle .4s, and despite straight shots, they curved up way too much from all the hop.

In conclusion, the PCS mod=fail

Test Number 2:

So I decided to try using an o-ring instead of a nub. I took a small o-ring and placed it on the shaved down arm. Took some shots, not enough hop.

Then decided to use Mike's arm. I shaved it down just a tad, enough so that the ring could sit on top and not fall off (before the fangs were sanded down, they were like tips, no where for the ring to sit). Took some shots, and was carrying .4s on 5% hop up setting. I managed to get it shooting pretty nicely, enough to play a few games.

Something I am looking into doing is shaving the arms a bit more down, so that I can use .3s as well. By sanding the arm, that will give less hop. That means I can then use lighter bbs, and still use the heavy weights by simply adjusting the hop up for a higher setting.

This worked out perfectly, and I am still using this method to this day.