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Yes the bucking thing is one difference. The other differences are highlighted below. This is a great guide by the way not seen some of those things done before. Certainly a good guide for a newbie.

I then tested the gun and it only fired at about 470fps. I knew I could get more out of the gun so I got a new o-ring (Sorry, I cannot remember the size it was).

Cylinder o-ring I assume?


I hadn't heard of this before. Will have to give it a go.

Airbreak; To be or not to be
On many websites it mentions to cut the airbrake off and you will gain about 60fps. This is wrong.[/QUOTE]

This is the biggest difference from common consensus I have seen.

If you increase the cylinder volume there is more air blowing the bb out the barrel. I cannot see why this would not increase fps - maybe with a light bb it will exit the barrel before all the air has exited, but with a heavier bb I believe the bigger volume will result in more power. I have never tested it (I need to get a chrono) but it doesn't seem right - and clearly a lot of people have reported buying Bar 10's and increased the fps by cutting it off.

To do this I got a 55 degree bucking (Soft bucking) and installed it. [/QUOTE]

This does go against what some people say, but other agree with you, no need to debate people just need to try it and see what works best for them. :)

Making it quiet
A lot of people also fill the voids in the rifle to stop it echoing - clay, exanding foam or sound insultating foam are popular.

If they are not matched right then the excess air pushes the cracking sound from the piston slamming into the cylinder head, out the end of the barrel. If the barrel is the perfect length for the cylinder, then most of that noise will be trapped in your barrel. This Mod can also increase your FPS dramatically.

Do you think this is dependant on the weight of bb used? Heavier bb's seem to gain more energy in short barrels - I think this is because the light bb will exit the barrel before all the air has existed - leading to the crack.

cylinder to barrel ratio of 2.417:1. (I read on the net that this ratio works so this is where I started experimenting with inner barrels and then I wanted to refine it even more to get the perfect barrel for the cylinder)

I have read other ratio's - 1:2 for example.

When I installed the 500mm barrel there was a big increase in FPS from 525fps to 570-580fps. This is too high for our club and so I downgraded it with an M150 spring. Accuracy was brilliant and it was quiet.
That's with 0.2's I assume? What was the barrel length before, stock presumably? I touched on this above. I wonder if it was shooting at over 3J before but the 0.2 was existing the barrel before all the air existing - meaning if you have used 0.4's in the old barrel you still would have got around 3J?

That must be very good compression with a m170 - just goes to show m190's really are overkill. :)

If you do use a silencer, then before mounting it, pull it apart and check that there are no stray hairs or lose bits on the foam that may cause inaccuracies. Also, if any of the foam is deformed then put these deformed parts closer to the barrel. So the closer to the exit should have the best bits of foam.
Generally better to use a lined silencer like on a VSR - a plastic tube in the middle. I had a friend with a foam silencer with a highish ROF aeg and it chewed up the foam wrecking the accuracy - obviously not such an issue with an BASR and you are not turning the rifle and shooting at the same time - normally. :)

So use a 550mm x 6.03mm inner barrel if you want the best length.[/

Most people seem to say a bit shorter than this is best but there are so many variables its hard to know. I just read Cheeseman saying he can get 100m range from a <200mm barrel so maybe there isn't a 'best'.

Not seen this before, good to know.

To purchase a PDI Variable Hopup Chamber or Not.[/quote]

Different reason not to bother but the same conclusion. A lot of people say two hop arms are a pain to adjust. TDC seems superior to me.

BB Brands
Well, to get the very best results, you most likely do have to pay the earth and get really expensive bb's but in my experience I do not think that the cost is worth it. The improvement is minimal.

Some people say that the benefits of 0.4's over lighter bb's out weigh the generally higher chance of air bubbles. I have not done enough testing to comment myself.

Here is a rough guideline as to which bb to use. Sometimes you may want to use slightly heavier so the wind does not affect as much.

Seems lower than others recommend. I don't think there is any reason not to use heavier bb's in 1J aeg's except cost. I know people recommend using 0.3's in fairly lower powered dmr's.


Thanks again for a great guide - and to vindicareassassin for expanding on the LRB a but more. I really need to move somewhere with a garden so I can test all this stuff. :)

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296 Posts
7 - I meant a plastic tube with holes in it like the GSPEC - you can still put foam in there. That would seem the best of both worlds to me. I really need to test some of this stuff. :)

Still a good thread for discussion though.
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