[SiliconeSword]

The Laylax SP 190 Spring does have an inner diameter of 8mm. I have spring guides for 7 and for 9 mm, so i have to make one can mod between spring and one spring guide and one between spring and piston.

Is that better, than a 7mm oder 9 mm spring that fits exactly on the inside or on the outside?

To an extent, it doesn't really matter lol.
9X13mm springs tend to get more power for less pull, but it doesn't really mean you should change from what you have as the difference isn't too important.
Also, if you can, try to get some heat shrink tubing to put on your 7mm spring guide instead of aluminum can, it will help a little bit with sound.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Make the spring guide about 7.9mm outer diameter for the 8mm inner diameter spring, add some Scotch tape under the heat shrink to get that rough diameter if you can't.
For the 13mm, not all pistons can take it, but I believe the SCW can.
I haven't hear of anyone having issues with spring guide or piston scratching, so I wouldn't worry.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Awesome, hope this ends up being what you were looking for

 

[SiliconeSword]

You can calculate it to an extent, but I wouldn't really worry about it that much.
They aren't really exact for other guns as piston weight and things like that affect the outcome.
They are more of rough guidelines, like don't run a 600mm barrel and .48s and so on.
I think that borrowing your friends 430mm is a good idea, that way you can see if it works for you.

 

[SiliconeSword]

I would recommend that you have a friend shoot part you at 100 and 150 feet, and see how it sounds.
Do it in the woods if you can, as foliage and such really absorbs lots of sound.
Remember, there will be other noise in the game as well, so your shots should blend right in.

 

[SiliconeSword]

For power, always measure in joules with the BB that you plan on using, then if you want to, convert that Joule amount to the FPS with a .20 that you would need to get that exact power.
So, a 550FPS sniper should be 2.81J with the BB that you plan on using, so that would be 355FPS with a .48, and the same amount with a .49 as they are actually slightly more pale BLS .48s marketed as .49 as to look like Nov's own product.
I would recommend BLS brand BBs if you can get them for a reasonable price, as they manufacture at least 30%+ of the world's airsoft BBs, as companies just buy different grades from them.
Brands like Elite Force, Longbow, Hotshot, Kicking Mustang, Cleanshot, Silo, Novritsch, and more that I can't remember.
Although others are BLS made, their own branded ones are actually the most consistent, and almost always less expensive per BB.
The one thing that is special about Novritsch BBs is that they are the whitest, so if you do scopecam footage they look better on camera as they are more visible.
Not worth it to most though.

For the sound of your rifle, it should be pretty good after those parts, and the rest of the sound should improve as you gain experience.
Still, I doubt a spring VSR-10 can be as quiet as a well volumed HPA VSR-10, unless the spring one is a 1J G-spec with lots of tuning and fiddling about.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Awesome!!!!!
Glad to hear that it worked out for you.

I wouldn't recommend that you buy the SAP or WASP, weighted pistons are overhyped a ton and provide very little improvement, and sometimes less improvement.
I think that from here on the only improvements to be made are silly little ideas that you want to test.
For example, I put an aluminum sleeve made from a can inside of my receiver to cover the shell ejection port and I filled that entire area with steel dust and epoxy resin.
I then filed and sanded the outside until it matched perfectly, and then I painted it and ripped out the piece of aluminum can.
It surprisingly helped a bit with sound, but of course, not as much as the correct barrel and BB, or a suppressor.
But still, it did something, and it made my gun look nicer.
So, try things like this as sometimes they actually work, and remember, EVERY little but adds up eventually.

 

[SiliconeSword]

I buy mine from Infantry Shop USA and Amped Airsoft, but I am in the US so idk about you.
I use .48 these days, and I used to use .43 and .45 in the past.
.48 is slightly better than .45, but .45 is vastly better than .43.
Just use whatever isn't outrageously expensive, as Novritsch and Hotshot (and the rest) are all re packaged BLS.

 

[SiliconeSword]

I like your list except for the barrel length and nub.
For the barrel, 370-390mm can be used without any sticking out, and it makes sure that you are not under volumed, even with .48-.43g ammo which you should use instead.
I would also suggest Action Army barrels as they are $20 cheaper in my area, idk about you though.

For the nub, look at my signature and make that one, it's one of the top 2-3 nubs that are for the AA chamber right now.
It's also the cheapest nub available unless you count the really bad rubber eraser ones.

 

[SiliconeSword]

The cheaper one in that post from CZ I would recommend, as it isn't really that expensive and just needs a spring, but only if it ships to your country

 

[SiliconeSword]

I'd go for a lapping the barrel and maybe taking off 40mm with a saw a d file.
Other than that, I'd try making my SS-arm and try getting an R-hop or Maple Leaf Autobot 2021 70°-85° bucking.
Should be good as it is, but that stuff will make it a noticable amount better.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Yeah, you're definitely right, but if you've run out of stuff to do then it may be worth considering, if you're chasing a little extra FPS or possibly accuracy.

 

[SiliconeSword]

I have had very good luck putting a slightly oversized/tight O-ring in the cylinder between the cylinder head and piston, which makes more of a thud than a slap.

May or may not work with a cup style piston, but I'd give that a crack.

Other than that, make something like one of these or bury your gun in leaves and stuff

 

[SiliconeSword]

The paper is supposed to reduce the inner diameter of the piston reducing spring rattle.
This is commonly done with aluminum can(I prefer just making my pistons to fit a specific spring perfectly) but paper does the same thing.
I'm definitely curious about how well it holds up though.

As for air brakes, they reduce power and need a stronger spring to bump the power back up, which for some people that's an issue, or their piston would need irreversible modification to use one.

 

[SiliconeSword]

Most definitely it helps, but only on the receiver really, as that's where all the mechanical noise is

 

[SiliconeSword]

The squish factor of the sorbo is undoubtedly making the nozzle go in slightly different depths, slightly changing air volume, but more importantly BB position on the contact patch and nub.
+-4 is still alright, but you'll just have to decide if there's an accuracy change and if it's worth the sound improvement.

I tried the electrical tape thing and it worked quite well, definitely will help a bit, along with some thick grease like you say.
Still, nothing compares to making a wooden box lined with aluminum foil and carpet covering the whole gun.

 

[SiliconeSword]

I'd suggest that you measure excluding the air brake, and then subtract 50%-70% of the length of the air brake.
This should get you more on the line of what you need as the air brake will need to go into the nozzle a bit before it kicks in.

 

[SiliconeSword]

I partially disagree with that last statement, as I think that in an AEG platform with an HPA engine you'd on average see an improvement when using an open window barrel.
This would be when using R-hop as the BB would stop sooner when being chambered violently, and would likely have a more consistent seating depth, and therefore better overall accuracy. In a gun like this both barrels have the potential to be the exact same, but you would likely have to do less when using an open window and an R-hop versus a closed window and an R-hop. You could simply use a normal bucking, but this would be if you wanted the slight FPS advantages of a larger contact patch.

This is likely why GBBs and GBBRs have open windows, or at least part of the reason I think is safe to say.

 

[SiliconeSword]

I say go for an SSG10 and and do minor upgrades instead, as nearly everything in an SSG10 is structurally very solid, and exactly as good or even better than upgrade parts.
If you spend $20-100 on an SSG10 in parts, you'll have something the same as $300-600 in parts in a BAR-10 or VSR-10. You may not spend that all at once, but in the future things will begin to break and cause issues and you will eventually eclipse the price of a mildly modified SSG10.