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Discussion Starter · #541 ·
Sniper barrels are just as accurate as AEG barrels. There is nothing special about them except that they have the notches on the side of the outside of the barrel so that the barrel can fit into a VSR10 hopup. They also have the correct slit on the outside so that they can take VSR buckings.
The extra 4.5cm of free space in the silencer should make it a little quieter but not much. To make it quieter, try experimenting with different foam materials in the silencer.
 

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Thanks so much for this guide! Decided to go down this path over an SSG10.

Quick starter question: I am having a hard time sourcing a BAR10 G-spec; I wanted to know if that, other than the extra 100 bucks, there are any issues with going with a TM G-spec? I do plan on going the full upgrade path over time.

Follow up question: Going with a G-spec, what barrel length upgrade length do I go with? 430?

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #543 ·
If you can't find a Bar10 then get an Action Army T11. In fact, you would be better off the get the T11.
Otherwise look for a WELL style VSR10. MB03 or something like that. You will have to change the cylinder out but it is still a good rifle. But my pick is the T11 as it already has a good cylinder, trigger and hopup.
 

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I have a question to the pistol travel length with airbrake. Do I measure the distance until the pistonhead reaches the cylinderhead or until the tip of the airbrake reaches the cylinderhead?

Do you recommend using an airbrake and a sorbopad at the same time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #546 ·
Until the end or the air brake. But I would rather go without an air brake.
 

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without an airbrake, I would have more airvolume. So I can run a lighter spring to reach my field limits and only use the sorbo pad to reduce the piston noise. And I can add Sorbo pads until my fps drop, at that point my gun should be perfectly volumed.

Maybe I can add some soft rubber or a sorbo pad to my metal piston head. That way the rubber piston head hits the sorbo pad, resulting in kinda no noise :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #548 ·
Your best bet is to match the cylinder to barrel ratio correctly. This can make it quieter. Then use only one layer of 3-4mm sorbo. Also to help make it quieter, make some foam spacers to go in-between the inner and outer barrel. This normally soaks up a good amount of noise. Also, use a silencer that is about 150mm long and is filled with foam.
 

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As you instructed, I went with the rc helicopter landing skids between inner and outer barrel (was a good tip) and 3 barrel spacers with an O-rings on the inside and outside.

For cylinder / barrel ratio I am getting closer to an optimal point. With 0,49g bbs and 3 Joules I went from 413mm barrel (prometheus) to a 430mm barrel (Cracy Jet), giving me additional 0,3 Joule. So I assume my gun was overvolumed. I ordered a 435mm dual bore barrel (edgi), to see what happens when installing that, but it hasnt arrived jet.

The silencer is the novritsch modular pistol supressor at 14 cm length, filled with foam and scotchbrite. I could extend it to 21 cm, but than it hinders my movement.

The loudest point of the gun is still the piston impact so I am looking at that place. I threw out the airbrake today, without the gun getting louder...

I am trying around with some weight on the piston, to make it perfect for my spring. If I use a lighter spring and a perfectly matched piston weight, does that make my gun more silent?
 

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Discussion Starter · #550 ·
I am trying around with some weight on the piston, to make it perfect for my spring. If I use a lighter spring and a perfectly matched piston weight, does that make my gun more silent?
It may help. For that one you would need to experiment.
 

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I am searching for a Bucking for my VSR. I received my edgi bridged barrel today (I think I ordered unbridged). Now I need another bucking, because the MR Hop only works with unbridged barrels. I dont like the idea of removing the bridge, it might damage the barrel.

The R-Hop patches for Edgi barrels are sold out atm in my area.

I tried a faceless Airsoft R-Hop patch for " Silverback and other brands". It is 1mm to short, wide and thickness where fitting perfect. The Edgi Hop up window is 7mm long. Which R-Hop patch will fit this window?

Is there an advantage going with a traditional bucking? I read the Airsoftphilosopher and one Modify Bucking (it wasn't said which Modify Bucking) shall work great.

Which route shall I go?
Setup is AA Hopup Unit, Edgi barrel (dualbore stainless steel), Tridos TDC, 3.0 Joule and 0,49g bbs. I already found a Flat Modify Sora Bucking for the R-Hop.

The aim is the best precision for my VSR.

Thank you for your help
 

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Discussion Starter · #552 ·
Personally in a bolt action rifle, I have found that there is only one advantage to having a R-Hop or Maple Bucking over a stock bucking. That is that if you have low energy, you can create more backspin. Though most of us have high energy and so our rifles have a pressure spike in the hopup and this is normally enough of a spike to create backspin even with a stock bucking.
The only reason we have a nub is to create backspin. Too much backspin and the bb will go sky high. Too little backspin and the bb will drop. So for your 0.49gm bb's there is a certain amount of backward revolutions needed to keep it in the air. At 3 joules you will most likely find that even a stock bucking should create enough backspin. So personally I have never seen a difference in accuracy with a high powered R-hop rifle and a high powered standard bucking rifle.
I would try just a standard bucking that is about 60-70D

Now R-hop can make a difference in an AEG as they can increase the fps a little. So it can be easier to get the higher fps you desire (Accuracy does not change but it does increase fps). But in a sniper rifle, the seal is normally that good with both styles of bucking that both will increase in FPS. So no advantage

I have had people outrange me with R-hop. At the last game a person came up to me with his r-hopped rifle we fired side by side and it outranged my rifle. But the issue was that his rifle had too much backspin and arcing high. I could have easily gone the same range by just applying a little more hop. But I do not want to have a big ark as my trajectory. I want it to shoot flat as possible.
You cannot change science. A certain bb mass will need a certain amount of backward revolutions to keep the bb in the air. If both buckings can produce this amount of revolutions, no matter if it is R-hopped or not, then it will keep the bb in the air. And if both buckings are centred, then they will be as accurate as each other.
 

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So it doesnt make any difference if I use an R-Hop, a Standard Bucking with bridged or a standard Bucking with unbridged barrel.

I agree with you on the flat trajectory :)

Which "standard Bucking" do you recommend for my setup?

Are there any compatibility issues with the bridged barrel in the AA Hopupchamber, because the VSR usuallyuses unbridged barrels? I think I read somewhere the Hopup units put pressure on the wrong point of the bridged bucking. I dont know if that statement was reasoned or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #554 ·
You shouldn't see a difference in accuracy between R-hop and a standard bucking unless the fps is not enough for your bb weight. In that case you will not get enough hop.
Bridged barrels are fine with standard buckings. I use the Action Army one but other good name brands are fine too.
No compatibility issues. I use Action Army 6.01mm inner barrel. They are both AEG compatible and VSR compatible.
 

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I'm new to building my own sniper. I want you to correct me if I think wrong:

My build:
  • Core: Cyma CM.701B
  • Cylinder head - Airsoft Pro (straight)
  • Hop Up chamber - Action Army Red Hop Up
  • Bucking - Maple Leaf 80° Decepticon 2021
  • Inner Barrel- Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 470 mm
  • Nub - Maple Leaf Omega Nub Tensioner
  • Inner Barrel Spacer - Custom 3D printed (1 piece, probably I will add 2 more)

If I have read right, I should 0.40g BB's with, that long inner barrel?

I have tested it on 0.36g BB's and I had a lot of left/right flies. Will heavier BB's help? The sealing is pretty good, I'm only losing air on the piston. I was planning to upgrade the piston, cylinder, and trigger after getting decent results with what I have. Any advice?
 

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I like your list except for the barrel length and nub.
For the barrel, 370-390mm can be used without any sticking out, and it makes sure that you are not under volumed, even with .48-.43g ammo which you should use instead.
I would also suggest Action Army barrels as they are $20 cheaper in my area, idk about you though.

For the nub, look at my signature and make that one, it's one of the top 2-3 nubs that are for the AA chamber right now.
It's also the cheapest nub available unless you count the really bad rubber eraser ones.
 

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I like your list except for the barrel length and nub.
For the barrel, 370-390mm can be used without any sticking out, and it makes sure that you are not under volumed, even with .48-.43g ammo which you should use instead.
I would also suggest Action Army barrels as they are $20 cheaper in my area, idk about you though.

For the nub, look at my signature and make that one, it's one of the top 2-3 nubs that are for the AA chamber right now.
It's also the cheapest nub available unless you count the really bad rubber eraser ones.
I have already mounted listed parts, so I have to get decent result with them ;)
Do 90 degrees piston/trigger have more volume?
I love your nub! Maybe I will try make it. As replacement I hope this one is in that top 2-3 nubs: Panthera Concave CNC Aluminium Nub - I was planning to buy it.
What I'm thinking right now - these left/right flies, could be because of nub? :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #558 ·
I like your list except for the barrel length and nub.
For the barrel, 370-390mm can be used without any sticking out, and it makes sure that you are not under volumed, even with .48-.43g ammo which you should use instead.
I would also suggest Action Army barrels as they are $20 cheaper in my area, idk about you though.

For the nub, look at my signature and make that one, it's one of the top 2-3 nubs that are for the AA chamber right now.
It's also the cheapest nub available unless you count the really bad rubber eraser ones.
The 470mm barrel will mean he can use his entire cylinder volume to give him the most fps with 0.4gm bb's. If he stuck a silencer on the end then it would not be sticking out.
Though with a Pro length barrel (The long barrel) a silencer can make it too long. I normally solve this by purchasing (or Making) an extra long silencer that is about 350cm by 40cm. I then wrap electrical tape around the Pro outer barrel about 15cm down and also at the muzzle. The I take the rear cap off the silencer and slide it over the outer barrel making sure that the electrical tape fits snug. This will look really good and be very sturdy as well as it will not be too long. Also, the silencer will actually work.
He can use a shorter barrel which will mean he can use heavier bb's but he mentioned 0.4gm and so if he is going to run with them, then that is the best length normally/

Do 90 degrees piston/trigger have more volume?
Triggers do not increase volume but the new TTI triggers that have just come out will increase your energy. It will pull the piston back just past the ported area of the cylinder. This means that the piston will have sped up a little by the time it hits the compression area

What I'm thinking right now - these left/right flies, could be because of nub? :unsure:
90% of the time, that is what will cause the issues
 

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The 470mm barrel will mean he can use his entire cylinder volume to give him the most fps with 0.4gm bb's. If he stuck a silencer on the end then it would not be sticking out.
Though with a Pro length barrel (The long barrel) a silencer can make it too long. I normally solve this by purchasing (or Making) an extra long silencer that is about 350cm by 40cm. I then wrap electrical tape around the Pro outer barrel about 15cm down and also at the muzzle. The I take the rear cap off the silencer and slide it over the outer barrel making sure that the electrical tape fits snug. This will look really good and be very sturdy as well as it will not be too long. Also, the silencer will actually work.
He can use a shorter barrel which will mean he can use heavier bb's but he mentioned 0.4gm and so if he is going to run with them, then that is the best length normally/
I have already a 3D printed extension of the outer barrel, which looks like the original outer barrel. The inner barrel ends 1.5mm before the end of this extension, and also it is holding the inner barrel tight at the end :)

Triggers do not increase volume but the new TTI triggers that have just come out will increase your energy. It will pull the piston back just past the ported area of the cylinder. This means that the piston will have sped up a little by the time it hits the compression area
Ohhh, I thought, that 90 degrees solution, takes the piston to the back, so volume is extended. Is this what TTI does?

90% of the time, that is what will cause the issues
I will definitely change it then.
 

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Ohhh, I thought, that 90 degrees solution, takes the piston to the back, so volume is extended. Is this what TTI does?
Nearly all 90 degree triggers do not do this.
The point of a 90 degree trigger is basically two fold.

Firstly it is stronger than the 45 degree system. This is because the way that the piston sear contacts the trigger sear is completely vertical. This is sturdier than the way a 45 degree trigger does it which is at angle, due to the distribution of force or something.

[45 degree trigger on the left, 90 degree trigger on the right}
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Secondly, a 90 degree trigger will make the bolt push and pull much smoother than a 45 degree trigger. This is because in a 45 degree trigger the piston is under pressure at an angle. This forces the rear of the piston against the top of the cylinder making it more difficult for it to slide.

[Like this]
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In a 90 degree trigger, because the sear presses vertically against the piston, this will not happen.
This is the purpose of the normal 90 degree trigger.

Now let me talk about Zero Triggers.
A lot of 90 degree triggers will claim that they are Zero triggers. This is not the case. A Zero trigger is a 90 degree trigger, that has one additional feature.
It has a bearing where the sears contact that allows them to slide off each other rather than rub against each other.
This makes the trigger pull much lighter and increases trigger longevity.
There are 5 of these triggers on the market. They are made by Action Army, Laylax, TTI and EMG.
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Finally let me talk about triggers that increase fps.
Some 90 degree triggers move the sear that contacts the piston further back. This allows the spring to compress more and this increases the power.
Below you can see a diagram of a normal 90 degree trigger (left) and the bulltrigger (right). The bulltrigger has this function and thus increased power.
There are only 2 triggers that do this currently. The Bulltrigger and the TTI.
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I hope this clarifies things.
 

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