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94 Posts
I'm running a BBTac M62 that I modified myself. It has a 7-Power Vortex scope on it, and a detachable silencer that I added the compatibility for. I'm still looking for a bipod. But even still she makes 'em scream real nice.
Advanced VSR Sniper Building Guide
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94 Posts
And I also agree that you can't just grab a sniper out of the box and expect to be Robin-Hood level accurate. If your sniper even comes with a scope (which most don't), I recommend to not use it in a match. You need an actual name-brand scope to be that accurate and you need to zero that scope to your rifle. I have a bad example from a scope that came with my first rifle from the factory. If you jiggled it around the reticle moved and the adjustion dials didn't do anything. I couldn't hit the side of a barn with that thing because of that stupid scope. I waited for months trying to find a new scope. But I finally decided on one and after zeroing, it just drove tacks.
Hello guys,
you solved all my previous VSR problems. I hope you can solve my current one aswell.
I am using the AA cylinder. It has around 13mm screws in front for the cylinder head. The AA cylinderhead goes around 8mm deep into the cylinderhead. That means my piston moves across 5mm metalscrews. This ruins the sealing, makes FPS variations and damages my pistoncup. Is there a cylinder, that has shorter screws in front? On the photo you see my cylinder. The silver screws are used, the black ones are not.
![19100]()
I would like to use the laylax cylinderhead, because it goes only 5mm deep into the cylinder, therefore creating more airvolume. Does anyone know, how deep the cylinderscrews for the Laylax cylinder are?
Is there maybe another cylinder, that I can use for having maximum airvolume? Without using a bore-up kit, that needs a special receiver?
Thanks for your help.
Marco
you solved all my previous VSR problems. I hope you can solve my current one aswell.
I am using the AA cylinder. It has around 13mm screws in front for the cylinder head. The AA cylinderhead goes around 8mm deep into the cylinderhead. That means my piston moves across 5mm metalscrews. This ruins the sealing, makes FPS variations and damages my pistoncup. Is there a cylinder, that has shorter screws in front? On the photo you see my cylinder. The silver screws are used, the black ones are not.
I would like to use the laylax cylinderhead, because it goes only 5mm deep into the cylinder, therefore creating more airvolume. Does anyone know, how deep the cylinderscrews for the Laylax cylinder are?
Is there maybe another cylinder, that I can use for having maximum airvolume? Without using a bore-up kit, that needs a special receiver?
Thanks for your help.
Marco
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5,705 Posts
You are meaning thread. Not screw.
If you add a rubber damper onto the cylinder head, then this should take up the area where the thread is. Meaning your piston cup does not get damaged.
You may also want to try and fill some of the thread that is not used with a 2 part epoxy or Needit or JB Weild.
If you add a rubber damper onto the cylinder head, then this should take up the area where the thread is. Meaning your piston cup does not get damaged.
You may also want to try and fill some of the thread that is not used with a 2 part epoxy or Needit or JB Weild.
Thanks for the advice with the epoxy.
I will try a few different cylinder brands, to see if there is a cylidner with shorter threads. While doing that I might find a cylinder with a shorter trigger cutout and can increase my cylinder volume that way.
After that I will see if I can add the epoxy to the unused threads in a way, that the piston does seal with it.
Without the thread issue I would perfectly fit your airvolume recommencations for the 0,49g BBs. With the Sorbos in, I am lacking some air.
I will try a few different cylinder brands, to see if there is a cylidner with shorter threads. While doing that I might find a cylinder with a shorter trigger cutout and can increase my cylinder volume that way.
After that I will see if I can add the epoxy to the unused threads in a way, that the piston does seal with it.
Without the thread issue I would perfectly fit your airvolume recommencations for the 0,49g BBs. With the Sorbos in, I am lacking some air.
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5,705 Posts
Consider getting a TNT bore up cylinder or something like that. Bore up cylinders I've been testing!
In reality though, the stock cylinder has enough volume. A bigger cylinder will only make the bolt pull a little easier.
In reality though, the stock cylinder has enough volume. A bigger cylinder will only make the bolt pull a little easier.
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3,679 Posts
The cheaper one in that post from CZ I would recommend, as it isn't really that expensive and just needs a spring, but only if it ships to your country
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1,625 Posts
Good morning fellow snipers,
would you may have a quick look on my setup to tell me if you experienced guys would change anything really important?
Well MB03 Body
ML Crazy Jet 430mm
AA Hop up Chamber
Normally used the 60° Autobot but changed to the Modify X-Range for testing (any experience here?)
Tridos TDC 2.0 with one of the supplied CNC tensioner
Synthesis Steel cylinder
Airsoftpro Nozzle
Airsoftpro Piston & Springuide
Airsoftpro 90° Triggerunit
Shoots at about 3.12J with M170 and .45gr (with the Modify Bucking / the old Autobot shot at about 3.02-3.07J, so only a slight difference)
Is there any really recommendable change to take care of to make it smoother and let's say better in any way?
would you may have a quick look on my setup to tell me if you experienced guys would change anything really important?
Well MB03 Body
ML Crazy Jet 430mm
AA Hop up Chamber
Normally used the 60° Autobot but changed to the Modify X-Range for testing (any experience here?)
Tridos TDC 2.0 with one of the supplied CNC tensioner
Synthesis Steel cylinder
Airsoftpro Nozzle
Airsoftpro Piston & Springuide
Airsoftpro 90° Triggerunit
Shoots at about 3.12J with M170 and .45gr (with the Modify Bucking / the old Autobot shot at about 3.02-3.07J, so only a slight difference)
Is there any really recommendable change to take care of to make it smoother and let's say better in any way?
Thanks for your comments 1tonne, much appreciated
What improvement could I expect from the even shorter barrel? Is it "only" in regards to cylinder volume?
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3,679 Posts
I'd go for a lapping the barrel and maybe taking off 40mm with a saw a d file.
Other than that, I'd try making my SS-arm and try getting an R-hop or Maple Leaf Autobot 2021 70°-85° bucking.
Should be good as it is, but that stuff will make it a noticable amount better.
Other than that, I'd try making my SS-arm and try getting an R-hop or Maple Leaf Autobot 2021 70°-85° bucking.
Should be good as it is, but that stuff will make it a noticable amount better.
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5,705 Posts
The maple leaf barrel has the porting system down the end though. So cutting it gets rid of that. Though there is no real proof that the porting system makes any real advantage.
Also, even though the barrel it 430mm long, since it has the port, it is more like 420mm long. So only 20mm off the recommended cylinder to barrel to bb weight ratio for 0.45gm. Not really worth worrying about.
Also, even though the barrel it 430mm long, since it has the port, it is more like 420mm long. So only 20mm off the recommended cylinder to barrel to bb weight ratio for 0.45gm. Not really worth worrying about.
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3,679 Posts
Yeah, you're definitely right, but if you've run out of stuff to do then it may be worth considering, if you're chasing a little extra FPS or possibly accuracy.
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