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Discussion Starter · #601 ·
I do really like the TTI trigger but I have not tried the cylinder. Though, preferably, I would get a bore up as you mentioned. (Not a PDI bore up)
Also, you would need a longer inner barrel to match the cylinder volume. I also like 6.00mm barrels.
Not sure on piston weight. Maybe 30-40gm
No air brake
 

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I do really like the TTI trigger but I have not tried the cylinder. Though, preferably, I would get a bore up as you mentioned. (Not a PDI bore up)
Also, you would need a longer inner barrel to match the cylinder volume. I also like 6.00mm barrels.
Not sure on piston weight. Maybe 30-40gm
No air brake
1tonne,
1. What conclusion did you come to after your tests with the 5.98mm ID barrels? It seems you gained some muzzle energy with the 5.98 over the 6.01, have you done any additional testing?

2. I saw in another thread that you wanted to do a comparison of the TNT BU cylinder kit and the one from CZ, has that gained any traction?

3. Piston weight, an additional 30-40gm over whatever stock weight is, or 30-40gm total weight?

4. In regards to barrels, I see a few people putting AEG cut barrels into their VSRs, is there a benefit or stick with the standard VSR/GBB cut barrels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #603 ·
1. 5.98mm barrels are about as good as the 6.00mm. I would stick with 6.00mm though as they seem to be more reliable.
2. Did not do bore up test
3. 30-40gm in total
4. No advantage between AEG and VSR Barrels. I used to use Action Army AEG barrel as they also work with VSR's
 

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I partially disagree with that last statement, as I think that in an AEG platform with an HPA engine you'd on average see an improvement when using an open window barrel.
This would be when using R-hop as the BB would stop sooner when being chambered violently, and would likely have a more consistent seating depth, and therefore better overall accuracy. In a gun like this both barrels have the potential to be the exact same, but you would likely have to do less when using an open window and an R-hop versus a closed window and an R-hop. You could simply use a normal bucking, but this would be if you wanted the slight FPS advantages of a larger contact patch.

This is likely why GBBs and GBBRs have open windows, or at least part of the reason I think is safe to say.
 

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@1tonne im using a srs, and im trying to figure out what barrel length to use and its kinda hard to figure it out considering that the srs has a cylinder volume of about 41000 mm^3. Ill be using .40g bbs. What would be the theoretical best barrel length? I plan on using a 4+ joule spring with the WASP piston steel sleeve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #606 ·
With a 0.4gm bb the best cylinder to barrel ratio is 2.67:1. Since the SRS has a 41cc volume, this means that the inner barrel that would match is 540mm long (6.01mm in diameter). This will give you the easiest bolt pull. But the issue is that it may be too long for what you want. So just get as long as you think you would be happy with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #608 ·
I normally use Action Army AEG barrels as they already have all the grooves for a VSR bucking.
 

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I've got a stock SSG10A3 long barrel with Tridos TDC and MRHop 2021 85. So far I've been using M180 Novy spring, which gives me 3.5j with 0.45g bbs, but I'm trying to get into the advanced part of tinkering. I've purchased Rapax Hulk, tried it out, got around 4.5j with 0.45g bbs. Limits here are 4j and 0.45g bbs. The question is, how should I try to get to 4j? Use M180 and try to play with piston weights to maximize the power, or 3.5j to 4j is too much of a jump? Or should I keep the Hulk at full length or cut a little and try the air brake+piston weight combos to find that sweet spot? The goal is 4j, as well as getting the cylinder part of the gun as quiet as possible, if that makes sense.
 

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Here's the thing. 4 joules might not actually be desirable.
There seems to be a point of diminishing returns with power in airsoft, and 4 joules seems to be past it (if I recall correctly).
Air brakes don't work that well for VSR10s, the trade off isn't really worth it.
To be honest, I would just cut the spring, but wait for someone else to weigh in before doing so. I might be wrong.
 

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I agree I think if you start going over 400fps with a .48 it may almost be too sporadic. Not saying you can’t land shots at all or can’t land further shots. But in my opinion, too much power can bring less consistency. Maybe it’s even more power than that but too much power will have an impact on a nice, flat smooth trajectory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #612 ·
I would add some weight to the piston.
But yes. There is diminishing returns which can make the bolt pull a lot heavier for only a few meters extra in range.
 

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I may have missed this so forgive me if my weekend eyes failed me!

Currently using an AA cylinder, Springer Custom Works piston and guide, and an Edgi 430mm barrel. Now, for a 6.03mm barrel, the guideline weight is .43g but mine is actually a dual bore barrel that runs from 6.03mm to 5.98mm....and I use .48g BBs. Now, I have no issues generating hop, and accuracy/consistency is quite acceptable but I'm always looking for more......and I would guess mine is more than slightly over-volume......

So how much difference will a switch to a different weight actually make, and in the words of Paul Harrel "Is it enough difference to make a difference"?
 

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I may have missed this so forgive me if my weekend eyes failed me!

Currently using an AA cylinder, Springer Custom Works piston and guide, and an Edgi 430mm barrel. Now, for a 6.03mm barrel, the guideline weight is .43g but mine is actually a dual bore barrel that runs from 6.03mm to 5.98mm....and I use .48g BBs. Now, I have no issues generating hop, and accuracy/consistency is quite acceptable but I'm always looking for more......and I would guess mine is more than slightly over-volume......

So how much difference will a switch to a different weight actually make, and in the words of Paul Harrel "Is it enough difference to make a difference"?
Here's the thing when calculating the volume of the barrel that 0.02mm (if it's 50/50 split would equal a 6.01 average) means nothing the difference between a full 5.98 and 6.01 at that length is 200cc roughly which wouldn't make a difference to the ratios.

Now a theory I've mentioned is that the 5.98 is much more aire efficient and changes the ideal cylinder/barrel ratio but no one had tested fully yet.

With that said to reach optimum efficiency would be using lighter bb's than .48 I believe, but if your range and grouping are good than no point in changing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #615 ·
Now a theory I've mentioned is that the 5.98 is much more aire efficient and changes the ideal cylinder/barrel ratio but no one had tested fully yet.
I think this too, but I am not willing to waist money on a 5.98mm barrel (they cost a lot) and then cut it down and experiment with the best cylinder to barrel ratio. If someone has a free long 5.98mm barrel then I do not mind experimenting.
 

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It was certainly a factor in my choice of barrel but as I said, I do wonder how profound any differences might be.
Not sure on how the barrel is split but it looks roughly equal without a fiddly measurement....I suspect I shall grab some other weights for science before too long.
 
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