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You know there is already an LRB guide, right? It's in the general section, and it's also a wax barrel spacer guide. It wouldn't hurt to have two though.
Advanced VSR Sniper Building Guide
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Yes I know that there is the guides.
But there is no complete guide. I have tried to make my guide as complete as possible so that people do not have to look at 10 different threads to find all the good infomation. I have tried to combine it all in this tutorial.
When I first started researching mods for the VSR, I hated having to check out heaps of threads as a lot of them repeated themselves. I wanted to make an all in one guide as there is no other on the net.
So since there is no complete guide like this, should this be "stickied"
But there is no complete guide. I have tried to make my guide as complete as possible so that people do not have to look at 10 different threads to find all the good infomation. I have tried to combine it all in this tutorial.
When I first started researching mods for the VSR, I hated having to check out heaps of threads as a lot of them repeated themselves. I wanted to make an all in one guide as there is no other on the net.
So since there is no complete guide like this, should this be "stickied"
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I agree that cylinder to barrel volume balancing is probably the most important thing. My cylinder is balanced to a 435mm barrel and I'm pushing 330 with .28s so disgustingly quiet I'm not even sure if it fired.
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I think it's good to have things seperated into different threads, but have them all stickied. It helps to keep evering organizedinstead of having to scroll through one massize thread. Otherwise, why would we have so many sub-forums. You are right that a lot of threads repeat themselves, and thet's why we are trying to sticky the really important ones. And if something isn't important enough to be stickied like r-hop questions, but the threads keep getting repeated, then you can link to them all in one place like I did with the r-hop database.
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Just a note: I recieved another JG G-spec recently and the finish quality on the barrel was just as good as the long version. So now I would purchase either rifle. They are both as good as eachother.
Maybe some people will think that the G-spec is better because it has a straight barrel. So easy to fit barrel spacers and probably easyier to do the Long Rang Barrel.
I myself like both versions.
Maybe some people will think that the G-spec is better because it has a straight barrel. So easy to fit barrel spacers and probably easyier to do the Long Rang Barrel.
I myself like both versions.
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It doesn't matter if you have a straight or tapered barrel if you do a wax spacer. Even with normal spacers, the tapered barrel might be better because once it gets to a part of the barrel that's too small, it will wedge itself in. Although the straight barrel would be easier to do the LRB with because to can position the spacer exactly without having to add tape or take off material on the outside of the spacer to get it stuck at the right part of the tapered barrel.
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No I have not as the L96 already has a really good air seal. (Normal L96 buckings are great)
You will also notice that the nozzle on the L96 cylinder fits into a hole on the hopup chamber. If you were to do the heat shrink mod then you would have to drill a little of the chamber out as the hole is the exact size of the air nozzle. The heat shrink will not fit past it.
The heat shrink mod would be a good idea if you ever used a VSR bucking in the L96. The VSR bucking's hole where the air nozzle fits into is a little bigger than the L96 rubber and so doing the heat shrink mod should be of great benefit.
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Before you go modding the airseal, see if it is good already. First put your finger over the nozzle of the cylinder with the barrel off and shoot. If air only comes out when you take your finger offn you are good in that department. Then put your finger on the end of the barrel with it attached and shoot. If air leaks from the hopup try using dental floss on the bucking. Try it again and then if it still doesn't have the perfect seal, drill out your chamber and heat shrink the nozzle. Just remember you can always put some tape in the chamber or an ABB ring on the bucking instead to hold it down to the nozzle.
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Adding foam will not make any difference. If it does it would only be 1 or 2 FPS.
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If you have an extremely long barrel and the bb doesn't exit by the time the piston hits the cylinder head, only then would it decrease fps. But you probably don't have that long of a barrel.
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The piston and cylinder head have nothing to do with each other. If the piston fits in the sane cylinder the cylinder head fits on, it will be fine. It's not like they have to fit into each other.
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The only manufacturer you have to worry about not being compatible with other parts is pdi. Some pdi parts just only work with other pdi parts. Other than pdi, if it says vsr compatible (or in laylax's case, pss10 compatible), it will work with all other vsr parts.
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