[vindicareassassin]

Thought I'd drop by for 10 minutes and this caught my eye

My SL is a STAR body, with a TM G36 gearbox/hop unit.

The body is realy sound in construction and feels very solid, it is also alot heavier than a stock G36, and goes along way to help keep the gun quiet.

One thing you should be aware of is the SL forestock has next to no internal space for batteries, I still cant figure out how to get my 11v Lipo into it, hence sticking with the 'C' length forestock :-/

Properly set up a V3 gearbox is one of the quietest around and is only slightly louder than my VSR, but you do have to be careful with barrel/cylinder volume matching/balancing to achieve maximum stealth, and as we are allowed to use fully functioning suppressors mine is truely a whisper

Mine is still very much a work in progress.

A full roster of what is in mine as follows.....

STAR body with G36C front end
M130 spring
Bearing spring guide
TM gearbox case( built to the same specs as my guide)
Systema Helical gears ( short stroked by 3 teeth)
Systema bearing Cylinder head
G&P cylinder with extra metal teeth (to stop premature wear by the short stroking)
TM EG1000 motor
TM hop unit
TM rubber with nub removed(whipped to barrel)
Madbull X fishbone nub
Systema 6.04 x 435mm barrel
x4 20 round magazines (10 round real steel)
x1 specialy cut down hi-cap holds approx 100 rounds (20 round real steel)

FPS = just shy of 350
Groupings = 12" at 60 yards using Red Devil or Guarder .28s

And just for shit n giggles, a reminder of what it looks like

 

[vindicareassassin]

Vindi, when you get a chance can you elaborate on this battery issue? I am debating sticking with my G36 and doing a similar mod (again lol) but am going to re-work my whole gear box according to your DMR guide and add a Mosfet and a LiPo, and I want to make sure that I can fit a battery. Right now its rear wired, but I'd rather have it in the front.

Made the effort to see how things are progressing, and so.....

The difference between the 36C front end and the SL is the bottoms.

On the C, and K IIRC, the bottom has a trough moulded into it, which gives enough space to fit a battery. I run an 11.1V Lipo which is 175mm x 25mm x 20mm.

On the SL the bottom is flat, so there is only about half inch of space between the fore grip base and the bottom of the outer barrel, and baring in mind mine is heavily modded to take a 'C' size cell battery pack, anyone else trying to fit a battery is going to be shafted

There might be enough space either side of the barrel to run sub C size cells, but it would definately have to be a saddle style pack, as I don't have anything like this I've never tryed, but it is worth concidering.

My mate used to have an XM8, and it was a crock of shite, I believe it was made by BE. I glued it together twice for him after he had dropped it, the second time was a perminant affair, so that if anything happened in the gearbox, which it did, it was straight in the bin... no questions asked! I'd steer well clear!!

To back up what bobgengeskahn wrote.... some pics for you.....

Inner barrel supports made from appropriate thickness plastic card, also showing cut outs to allow larger battery fitment....

Showing front battery cut out and small 'O's where barrel support screws touch....

Machine screws( in an unscrewed state) for barrel/forestock support....

What you will be trying to achieve with the machine screws (note these are on my SR25 as its impossible to photograph on the SL)( another note, on the G36 foregrip you wont need to use nuts as they already have the threaded inserts fitted)....

And cant you just tell which ones were taken on my phone? :-/

My own fault for sending my camera round the washing machine twice

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[vindicareassassin]

If you want one, and can find and afford one, get it, there is no holy grail of AEGs in the world, ever!

What you hear is shite from 1 person, might well be the bestest, most reliable and long serving AEG to another!

This holds true of every manufacturer out there, my mate only sold me all 3 of my G&G M14s, because no matter who he gave them to to sort out none of them could get them to work, be that mates or shop techs where he bought them from, and has swore he will never buy a G&G again, and hasn't. Me I fixed them and would quite happily buy another as they are far and away better, easier to work on and robust, than the TM heap of shite :-/

Its all relative

The only way to find out is to actualy buy it and use it!

Then 'if' it breaks, fix it!

The advantage is its pretty much compatilble with all V3 gearboxes and all G36s, regardless of length, so your never going to struggle for replacement parts

 

[vindicareassassin]

Gents, sorry, but I have a little sorta related question:

Has anyone tried using a prowin G36 hop up chamber? I'm using it on my G36, and my magazines aren't feeding unless I push the magazine forward.

I used mine on the weekend and experienced a similar problem, except no matter what I did to the mag it would not feed, or would random feed if I was lucky :-/

I have a sneeking suspision my issue lies with the tappet plate not moving back far enough to allow a BB into the hop, I tested it by looking down the feed tube while firing and it does appear not to go far enough back, but things happen so fast its really difficult to tell. Quite why its done this I dont know as it fed fine before I fitted a new piston on saturday, but now..... no joy

When I get time I'll do a full strip and rebuild and see whats what.

Just something to think about

 

[vindicareassassin]

I bought mine as a 50 pack, cost me