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I have always loved the look of the SL8 and most HKs in general, but I have found that they are an acquired taste for most people. I have never seen anyone using them on this forum or any others for that matter... but I can share my experience with my G36 as far as internals go since I have mostly CA parts in it at this moment.

The body is a TM and has held up well, with exception of the "outer barrel" which I changed with a G&G kit. I'm not sure how the outer barrel is designed on the SL8, but that would be something to look at as I have heard that they tend to break on most of the G36c, k, ke etc. models unless upgraded with a heavier system.

My v3 gearbox is awesome! After talking with Vindi about his build in that build off thread he said that the v3 is a better choice to upgrade, and I have never had any problems with mine outside of normal spring wear since I have upgraded it 4-5 years ago and its chronoing at 400 (with a fresh spring).

The only two down sides to the platform that I have experienced are.
1. mags are terrible to find pouches for, might not be such a problem with a sniper platform though.
2. it is really really really loud on full auto (might be because of barrel length, but some of it is still coming from the motor).

p.s. if you decide to go with the body kit I am looking to sell my G36c, you can look at it in the commerce forum.
 

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lol i see, im hoping to make it outthat way some time to get some stuff.

usually airsoft retreat and arnies airsoft have good reviews. i have not heard anything bad about the star stuff though. but if the internals are good id go with the star just because a CA 6.04 is only ~$45, so you could save some money. then i guess it just comes to colour. personally i like the gray, but you could always consider painting it too.
 

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.... damnit... this has got me thinking of keeping my G36 again... if it werent for the crappy mag well conversion in running with...

... where is a good source to find the body conversion kits? the only place i can find is precision airsoft... and there is absolutely NO way to make this body kit look cool:
 

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lol its a lot easier to find those in the US than the SL8 kits... its near impossible to sell them since everyone pretty much thinks they are just about as useful/tastefully as the FAMAS.

And since Vindi is rare on the forums as of late I will try to answer your "a)" question since I asked pretty much the same thing from him. (its all in the build off thread if you want to double check, but its a realllllllly long thread
)

Basically what vindi did was to take a barrel extension (i think it was from a M4 barrel extension kit) and thread that onto the existing mounts and added a suppressor. To stabilize the barrel (this part I remember well since I was upset I couldnt do it), he took longer machine bolts and threaded through the three forward rail mount holes and screwed them in to hold both the outer barrel and the rails in place. (does that make sense?)

just in case I didnt explain it clear enough.... its still the last threa (#103) in the build off thread. (lol I thought it had gotten a little more lost since I looked at the thread last)
 

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Well, I have a stock hop on my G36c and its pretty effective with just a stock TM bucking (i didnt get edumacated about all this accuracy stuff till I came here and I havent had a chance to do work my AEG yet).

As far as the barrel goes, I just got a CA 6.04 for my ASR that is originally meant for a G3... sooooo if you want to wait a day or two ill have an accuracy report up. I went with the CA because it was the easiest accurate Stainless barrel I could get my hands on and Livonia popped into a thread swearing by stainless barrels... which made sense to me... Ill post the results in the gallery thread about my ASR since thats where I have the targets posted from the last barrel too...

vindicareassassin said:
One thing you should be aware of is the SL forestock has next to no internal space for batteries, I still cant figure out how to get my 11v Lipo into it, hence sticking with the 'C' length forestock :-/

Vindi, when you get a chance can you elaborate on this battery issue? I am debating sticking with my G36 and doing a similar mod (again lol) but am going to re-work my whole gear box according to your DMR guide and add a Mosfet and a LiPo, and I want to make sure that I can fit a battery. Right now its rear wired, but I'd rather have it in the front.
 

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I used to run a Mini in my G36c and it was tight, so I threw a 9.6 5000 in the back. nice for spray and pray, but id like the ROF of a lipo since if I do the mod im probably not going to be a pure DMR since id like to keep it somewhat versatile.

And for reference, the target I shot in the gallery forum was with a DBCustom 6.01 and I got 9/10 at 110ft. runnin around 600fps. DBCustom isn't exactly a low end barrel, nor was it cheap (although I got it cheap since most of them are on clearance since DB went under), but it was a 6.01.

I just polished and waxed it tonight, and will see if I have time to cut it tomorrow before work, otherwise it will have to wait till the weekend. But I am very interested to see what the performance differences will be between the two.
 

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@ chiba: that is strange. I only have a stock hop in mine right now, but it doesnt sound like a hop up problem. Check the inside of your mag well and see if the lip is cracked, otherwise it might be your magazine. I had a similar issue, although I have a M16 mag conversion on mine and thought that it wasnt feeding because of the adaptor, turns out it was just one bad mag and the adaptor was fine.

On another note, after scouting fields today I discovered that I will be using my G36 this weekend as my primary since the camo on my primary sniper and my ghillie will in no way work at this field (it looks like vietnam and im set up for grassland
) So this project has jumped to the top of my list. I found a barrel extension for the G36 at my local shop today (really its just an outer barrel with a 14mm CCW male and female end but its prettier than the M4 ones), so I slapped that on, and it looks just plain sexy. I'm going to take it down tonight and make a list of what im going to need to get it working for this weekend. However I would love to find an SL8 stock for it and just keep the G36 body and the C foregrip...
 

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I just spent the day tearing down my G36, making a list of parts, tearing it down again and then re-building it... and im going to tear it apart again tomorrow to rewire it and system check the new spring I put in.

I can see what vindi is saying about the nozzle now though, I got a CA air seal nozzle today that I installed (plastic) Ill post some pics and let you know how it goes tomorrow after I get to shoot it a bit. but right now I have 2 questions.

1. In my upgrade today I traded a friend some parts for a spring, not sure what make, but he said it was a 210% spring and its black and way stiffer than the one I had in there. When function checking it after the rebuild tonight it was having issues cycling. I have a TM EG1000 high torque motor and metal gears (not sure if they are high torque, but they are not helical), could this be a power issue from the battery? It will do semi for a bit and it will do full auto for a bit, but after a few shots it will lock up. Getting parts today I was on a tight budget so I got the necessaries to get it working as a DMR for a game this weekend, so I did not upgrade the cylinder head, and am planning to do a mosfet and a lipo switch down the road.

2. I installed the longer barrel today (590mm) in the barrel extension and with the spacers and the teflon tape (like vindi did in his DMR thread and the spacers like the ones on his SL8) the barrel doesnt move like it was designed to in order to remove the mechbox. this in itself isnt a problem since I can just remove the barrel to break it down, but in actually firing it I can foresee this being an issue having too much/too little space between the air nozzle and the hop up which would cause mis-feeding, is there a way to check for the proper amount of clearance?
 

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I ended up going to a radio shack about 30 miles from where I live to find the 30ohm resistor, so it was just a minor inconvenience.

I'm not sure what to look for when adjusting the motor height, but when youre shimming your gears the way to check them is to assemble the mechbox without the piston, spring or guide in so that you can stick your finger in and move the sector gear. Then move the sector gear with your finger and feel for any wobble in the rotation and adjust with shims accordingly... atleast thats how I've been doing it, if someone has a better method I would love to know!
 
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