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chiba said:
Gents, sorry, but I have a little sorta related question:

Has anyone tried using a prowin G36 hop up chamber? I'm using it on my G36, and my magazines aren't feeding unless I push the magazine forward.
I used mine on the weekend and experienced a similar problem, except no matter what I did to the mag it would not feed, or would random feed if I was lucky :-/

I have a sneeking suspision my issue lies with the tappet plate not moving back far enough to allow a BB into the hop, I tested it by looking down the feed tube while firing and it does appear not to go far enough back, but things happen so fast its really difficult to tell. Quite why its done this I dont know as it fed fine before I fitted a new piston on saturday, but now..... no joy :(

When I get time I'll do a full strip and rebuild and see whats what.

Just something to think about ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Some of my teammates think that its the air nozzle as the JG one was made longer than normal (to accomodate for the JG hopup.. something was slightly shortened). It may be just the air nozzle and the hop up chamber not working together very well.

To be honest, I've never open my gearbox before, and I think I'll be doing that over the weekend to take a look-see at what's wrong. I'll probably buy a regular sized G36 air nozzle just in case as well. metal or plastic?
 

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I just spent the day tearing down my G36, making a list of parts, tearing it down again and then re-building it... and im going to tear it apart again tomorrow to rewire it and system check the new spring I put in.

I can see what vindi is saying about the nozzle now though, I got a CA air seal nozzle today that I installed (plastic) Ill post some pics and let you know how it goes tomorrow after I get to shoot it a bit. but right now I have 2 questions.

1. In my upgrade today I traded a friend some parts for a spring, not sure what make, but he said it was a 210% spring and its black and way stiffer than the one I had in there. When function checking it after the rebuild tonight it was having issues cycling. I have a TM EG1000 high torque motor and metal gears (not sure if they are high torque, but they are not helical), could this be a power issue from the battery? It will do semi for a bit and it will do full auto for a bit, but after a few shots it will lock up. Getting parts today I was on a tight budget so I got the necessaries to get it working as a DMR for a game this weekend, so I did not upgrade the cylinder head, and am planning to do a mosfet and a lipo switch down the road.

2. I installed the longer barrel today (590mm) in the barrel extension and with the spacers and the teflon tape (like vindi did in his DMR thread and the spacers like the ones on his SL8) the barrel doesnt move like it was designed to in order to remove the mechbox. this in itself isnt a problem since I can just remove the barrel to break it down, but in actually firing it I can foresee this being an issue having too much/too little space between the air nozzle and the hop up which would cause mis-feeding, is there a way to check for the proper amount of clearance?
 

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Most likely it's poor shimming causing your problems, and with the bigger spring, it's more noticeable just because the bigger spring is putting more strain on the entire setup. The other option is electrical (whether it be wiring, motor, or battery). Those are really about the only two options for your problem.

As to the battery compartment issue, I've never had a problem fitting a lipo into my STAR SL9 kit. Here's all the different batteries I've used in mine:
http://poweredgeusa.com/Intellect/Electric-Gun-Batteries/Intellect-111v-1600mAh-20C
http://poweredgeusa.com/Intellect/Electric-Gun-Batteries/Intellect-111v-1200mAh-20C
http://www.rsov.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=3469
http://www.rsov.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1786
http://www.rsov.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1759
http://www.rsov.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1758
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
That's what I'm up to over the weekend. Breaking apart my gearbox (with someone who's done it before in tow). Once I've learned how that works, I'll be making my AB mosfet and rewiring my trigger too.

I'll take a look at the Tappet Plate as well to see if its pulling back enough.

Gonna get the SL8 tonight
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
No radio shack or anything similar in the US?

I used RS-components online to get my stuff. Its not the cheapest, but hey, its situated in HK


I finally cracked the G36 gearbox yesterday under the directions of one of my teammates. That was pretty easy. However, I still don't quite get how to know when the gears are nicely shimmed and the motor height properly adjusted.

I'm tried moving the motor height up and down, and I can hear the different sounds, but how do I know its the right sound? Also, is there a sound I can hear that tells me the gears are shimmed properly? My teammate did the shimming in front of me, and he does it by instinct XS
 

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I ended up going to a radio shack about 30 miles from where I live to find the 30ohm resistor, so it was just a minor inconvenience.

I'm not sure what to look for when adjusting the motor height, but when youre shimming your gears the way to check them is to assemble the mechbox without the piston, spring or guide in so that you can stick your finger in and move the sector gear. Then move the sector gear with your finger and feel for any wobble in the rotation and adjust with shims accordingly... atleast thats how I've been doing it, if someone has a better method I would love to know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Sigh.. update:

I finally went to eHobbyAsia today to get the Star SL8... and lo and behold.. they only had 2 left in stock.

So I ask them to bring both out so I can pick which one I want. I first one had a few very deep scratches and the magazine adapter seemed like its seen better days. Some of the metal parts were rusting.

The second one was slightly better, except for one part of the plastic starting to fade in colour >.<

In the end, I just couldn't bear to buy either one >.< I think the only SL8/9 available now in the market are either the CA brand or the Conversion Kit >.<

SIGH!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Another update:

Well, I gave in... and bought the SL8!!!

Initial impression:

Its slightly heavier and longer than the G36E. Love the cheek rest!

I'll use it stock over the weekend and see how it goes. I heard that the stock hop up sleeve is bad though.

 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The conversion Kit is available at Dentrinity Shop (from HK). Check its website.

However, I'm alittle disappointed at the gun. Here's my super quick-no-picture review. I'll try to write a more detailed one later on.

1) As it's grey, the injection points of the mold are pretty visible. This will most likely require some sanding (which may be a problem.. will write about further below)

2) 8.4v battery pack with 3 cells parallel and 1 across DOES NOT FIT in the forestock.

3) No cleaner rod - com'on...>.<

4) No fuse!

5) Was hoping to do a rear stock battery mod - I don't think its going to work out. Not enough space unless you extend the movable stock entirely. Even then, you can't fit a 9.6v battery >.<

So I brought it out to play stock yesterday (Sunday) and here was my impression:

1) Had to borrow a 7.2v lipo from my friend.. it fitted, but wasn't the best. I think the wiring has to be shorten to allow easier battery fitting

2) The BB curved up around 8 to 10m after firing... and that's with the Hop Up turned OFF! However, did occur as much after using full-auto and playing for a while. But as soon as I let it rest, it would start curving all over again. I heard the hop up sleeve was typically bad on STAR guns.

3) The body scratched pretty easily - I played in a forest and a part near the foregrip was scratched up pretty badly (to a lighter shade of grey). Since the body its not black, its very visible. As mentioned in my first point, I think if I tried sanding it down, there would be dis-colouration. I also used the mesh steel half mask yesterday, and it also scratched the body pretty badly when I had the gun up in the shooting position (I was aiming by eye since I didn't have time to calibrate the iron sights or put a scope on).

4) Like Vindi said though, the balance of the gun is pretty good. I didn't feel tired at all while holding it in the shooting position. But I would suggest getting a sling anyways.

5) Slight misfeeding from hi-caps (various brands) and mid caps (MAG). However, that might be attributed to having to spray some silicon in my mags to lube things up


6) Ohh, I tried the Vindi mod and interchanged the forestock with my JG 36Es'. Just for clarification, they were not 100% compatible with each other. The forestock pin holes didn't did not line up perfectly. So in the end, I used a M4 bolt and nut to secure it.

So overall, I really wasn't impressed by the performance and quality of the gun for the price I paid (around 200US). The gun can't be played stock for its role (something of a mid to long range gun). As I don't wish to get a Lipo, I have to now try to find a battery pack that actually fits. I think the SL-9 deals with this issue with a bigger forestock.

Also, I'll have to think of a way to protect the gun from scratching - probably buy a roll of camo-form camo tape and wrap it around the gun.

Comparatively, my JG G36 was very good when I first bought it. I didn't need to change anything for it to shoot straight and far. It was also super durable as well.

Out of 5, I would only give it a 2.5 for the STAR SL8

New Update: Was taking off the outer barrel to take off the forestock yesterday... and the part of the 'gas chamber' that the outer barrel screws onto broke right off! That part wasactually connected with crappy pot metal. I'm pretty mad right now, but I've superglued it back on. Hopefully the repair will take the stress of screwing the out barrel off and on. I might have to figure out a new battery location >.<
 
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