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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to upgrade a v.2 gearbox, but have no idea what to do lol. The one I'm looking at comes with 7mm bushings, its a m4 long type. I know I don't need high speed... What about high torque? Gearbox shell is a javelin v.2. And I feel like I should hook up the hop unit as well(once again with no idea what to do).

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I wouldnt use anything higher than a 120 spring unless you replaced your gears with a high torque gears and maybe a higher torque motor but most motors can handle 120 springs. I wouldnt go very high power cause the v2 gearboxes arent very strong in my opinion. Thats one gearbox I wont own again,lol.. I have blown them out with 110 springs and a 10.8v battery. Three gearboxes to be exact. What are wanting to get out of it by chance? And just like a bolt rifle, the first things to mess with are the hopups and buckings. I dont know a whole lot about aftermarket parts like I used to. Too many new parts out and I am out of date,lol..
 

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My mechanic calls this his "bad ass AR build" It should come in under 100 dollars:
SHS M120 Spring
Stock Motor
Stock Gearset
Metal Bushings (or at least 7mm bearings)
Dielectric Grease for trigger contacts
Strong Piston (20-25 dollars), probably an SHS with multiple metal teeth, (ask your mechanic)
Stock Piston Head
11.1 Lipo
Madbull Shark Bucking with the Herringbone Spacer
 

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Everything he said except them dang madbull bucking with the fishbone nub,lol.. I hate hate hate them! I bought a 2 pack and I ended up giving them away cause they did nothing to improve my accuracy in my M4, 2 Ak's and my G36.. infact I chose stock bucking and nub over the madbull. I think I just hate madbull,lol.. I got them buckings with nubs and a black python v2 inner barrel and hated all of it. I cant understand how they wouldnt work in any of my rifles but other people say to get them. I guess I could have just gotten 2 lemon buckings and nubs AND a lemon Tb inner barrel but I really doubt them odds. I am under the impression madbull just sucks.lol..
 

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Dont change your order on my account buddy. Others say they liked the pythons. I felt my regular stock one was better but I'm pretty picky too. I paid $40 for it and was mad when my grouping were exactly the same or worse,hahaha.. paid $20 for them buckings too. So I dont like spending money on stuff unless its absolutely mandatory and I expected it to give results I would be happy or even ok with.
 

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I am old enough.

Is this going for an AR? You really should be wary of running autofire though a tight-bore. It can get hairy, especially if you have a high RoF. I do not think you should need a new inner barrel.

I have heard mixed things about the Shark bucking. In theory it should work very well. I ran my at 500 ft hitting about a double mansize before I switched to a R.E.A.P.S. (who taught the Chinese about acronyms?). Someone told me the Shark will cause a helical flight pattern, though I never noticed it.

Ah! A caveat: if you run the 11.1 lipo you must have a mosfet or dielectrical grease; or something to lower the resistance on the trigger contacts.

PS Does it already have a ported piston head?
 

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Yeah, shooting full auto "fast" can jam up in your inner barrel and its over with. There goes teeth from either some gears or a piston,lol.. I use stock as well. I keep hearing thhat them widebore barrels are great. I have a buddy who swears by it and is willing to bore a stock inner for me as long as I give reviews for him. I of course forgot to bring one for him last game.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Nah, if I did wanna Rambo some guys I would need an m203 though... Full auto wastes too much ammo. "One bullet, one kill" - anonymous sniper... I think it does have a ported piston head(if I recall correctly) is that important? I'm looking at a Javelin full metal m4 cqb. With an after market a 407 mm tight bore and a 30x130 mm mock suppressor.

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9.6v can turn over my m170 spring, but I am not sure how well it will work in this build. Probably respectably. If you want semi-auto only, you might find the motor response sluggish on a 9.6v.

Airsoft full auto is good, since the balls are unreliable. Fire discipline is still important though.

The ports on the head vent air outward from the inside of the gasket and help it seal tightly. It is important for an efficient machine.
 

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I run an 11.1 LiPo with an sp140 Guarder spring on stock gears with no mosfet. Trigger response is pretty quick. Semi only and I don't play often enough to worry about burning my contacts. If you're going be shooting it everyday then i would definitely look into a mosfet. A buddy of mine has an m60 that burns the trigger contacts way to easy. It won't even last a day.
 

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Well the problem with the m60 is that it is a microswitch. They aren't meant for the amount of vibration a airsoft gun puts out.
I highly recommend a mosfet with a lipo though. There are some pretty cheap and size efficient solutions out there as well. My favorite full featured mosfet is the AWS raptor (replaces trigger setup entirely), whereas my favorite basic mosfet is the infected armory mosfet (the mosfet itself is about the size of a nickle in diameter and about twice as thick).
 
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