AICS Barrrels

3010 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by swordfish1227, Feb 12, 2012

swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · Jan 17, 2012

So after some research(a lot of which lead me to this forum, which is why I joined) I've decided to do some upgrades to the externals of my AICS. Hoping a few of these things help the performance, but as long as they don't hurt it I'm fine with that.

A little background on the gun:

M700 AICS, Tan, bought Summer 2010
Completely stock

She's served me well. Never had a mag leak, shoots incredibly accurately. It shoots hard, even though it is not a PCS:

This is the bolt http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/swordfish1227/02a5610a.jpg

One quick question here - I have read that the post ban long mags only have one chamber in them - mine definitely has 2. Does this mean I have a preban mag in a post ban gun?

The gun and my TM 5-7 sidearm:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/swordfish1227/IMG_0031.jpg

On to the upgrades:

Would like to do the G&G barrel(I need the M24 barrel, correct?), but would like to have the ability to add a (mock) suppressor in the future.

1. Does this mean that I need to get the Tango type, or does the fluted style have threads on the end? I've found mixed information on that.

2. And if I need to get the tango type where can I find it? Also, will the stock inner barrel work with the new outer, or do I need to use the G&G inner and hop?

3. If the Tango barrel isn't available anymore, is the fluted outer barrel basically cylindrical the whole way down? Basically, is it balanced enough toss it in a lathe to knock the tip down and cut threads?

4. How much front end weight will this add? I prefer not using a bipod, so I don't want a super front heavy setup.

Is there anything else I need to think about upgrade wise other than HPA?

Thanks for enduring all the noob questions.

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1 - 16 of 16 Posts

danb

· #2 · Jan 17, 2012

Correct me if I'm wrong, but from the picture it seems you do have a PCS bolt, but you are missing the screw which you adjust the gas flow with.

Read the second post in this thread, it has a picture with the different bolt types which you may find useful.

When I bought my Tanaka M700 the screw in mine was missing too. It's a relatively easy fix, you can buy a screw to fit from a DIY type shop.

The one which fitted mine was an M6 size, which is a British measurement of the screw width. Not sure if it's the same wherever you're from though, best method is trial and error. Just take the half of your bolt which you need to the shop and try the screws for fit. I couldn't find a short enough screw, so I had to cut mine down (Quick job with a hacksaw) and also the head of the screw wouldn't fit through a certain part of the bolt where it narrows. The guy in the shop ground it down for me so it would fit, so again an easy fix...

Hope this helps!

Wolfgeorge

· #3 · Jan 17, 2012

2

+1 to the above, it looks like the adjustment screw is missing! But it should be an easy fix.
The pre ban guns only had the PCS bolt.
I had a Pre Ban AICS and had only one chamber for gas! And all 3 mag I had bought for it had only one chamber.
The G&G flutted barrel doesn't have thread adapter only the non flute barrel has.

I've installed on my M700 Police a Best Gun M24 flutted barrel with thread adapter but it's pretty hard to find. I was lucky enough to obtain one!! It heavier than the stock but WAY lighter than the G&G.

Here's some photo's of it. The only drawback of the barrel is the lenght! It's 26inch instead of AICS's 24inch barrel!

Wolf

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wack2011a

· #4 · Jan 17, 2012

A new barrel either the KM 6.04 + G&G Rubber Set or the 2-Roy VSR Chamber Conversion + 555mm 6.03 Prommy would show great signs of improvement.

I don't see how the Tango barrel will add performance and apparently it adds quite a bit of weight to the front end of the gun which is why I opted out.

Post-Ban has 2 Chambers, Pre-Ban only 1.

That is a PCS bolt except missing the adjustment screw. That probably means you're using a Pre-Ban AICS that was changed half-way through production when they didn't want to scrap all of the already made Pre-Ban rifles.

I would assume the outer barrel tappers at some point or actually tappers the whole way down. If you check your AICS barrel you'll see the diameter is rapidly reduced just before it leaves the receiver. Judging by the M24s design it either does that or actually tappers all the way down the barrel. Check youtube.com

I'm also pretty certain you'll need to use the G&G hop-up with the Tango barrel. However the Tango kit comes with a 6.04 barrel, Hop-up and all the other goodies you need to get up and running.

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Outer_Barrel_Sniper_Rifle_G_G_Steel_Barrel_Set_for_Tanaka_M24_Fluted_Type.htm

Oh yeah, make an introduction post!

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swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jan 17, 2012

Thanks Guys. I'll look into adding the adjustment screw to the bolt.

Peyote the fluted barrel doesn't have the threads. Is there an aftermarket barrel that has a threaded end, or an adapter for the stock AICS/M24 barrel to give it threads?

So the G&G barrel and hop is better than stock if I go that route on the barrel?

Can someone link to the post with the bolt pictures? I can't seem to find it.

I'll make sure to make an intro post.

Edit: I'm going to go with the G&G fluted barrel. I know I have a friend with a lathe somewhere so I can put a suppressor or flash hider on it later. Anything I should be wary of with this setup? From what I've seen the g&g hop and barrel seem to be fine.
Do I need to get anything else along with it to make it work?

A little anxious about disassembling my $600 rifle but I think I'll be okay. Can't be any harder than that WR engine or the eaton supercharger, right? Haha

EDIT2: One more thing - Anyone know any coupon codes for Redwolf?

EDIT3 - I swear this is the last thing. Maybe. Has anyone tried spinning one of these barrels in a lathe? Is the barrel cast or forged? If it's cast I may not be able to do it, as the material will just flake as I try and cut.

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swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 23, 2012

Ok Sorry about the double post here, but if I added anymore to that previous post it was going to get way confusing:

Anyways after a little shootout with a friend's KWA M4 I have come to the conclusion that this gun needs some lovin.

This is my write up on the shootout from another forum:

Accuracy wise they're about even with any other airsoft gun in stock form. Put my stock M700 up against a friend's KWA M4. 90ft range, winds at ~15mph. We were both shooting from a rest, hitting different boxes with the same target paper on them. Side by side, alternating fire. Of the 25 shots we took, I hit 10 on the paper and he hit 8. Most of the misses were caused by wind, but occasionally one of us would get a flier.

Things we noticed:

1. The Tanaka was hitting much harder. We had to light his target at an oblique angle to see the hits on the paper, not so much with my rifle. Of course this is easily fixed with either gun, but for out of the box it's something to consider.

2. When my rounds missed, 9 out of 10 times it was wind related - He had a tac light on his M4 so I could see where my bbs were going - the misses always followed the same path. His gun had a a greater percentage of "fliers" caused by some other factor(something spun it into the wind, underhopped, overhopped).

3. Even though you could hear the Tanaka shooting slower as the gas level dropped, the flight path was largely unchanged.

4. The Tanaka is much quieter from the shooter's prospective. Downrange the difference is not as noticeable, but there is still a difference(Also his Socom gear Noveske flash hider makes a huge difference)

Anyways as I said above I already ordered the G&G barrel set. The G&G set should make the inner barrel more stable, and I will tape/shim it to keep it tight in the outer barrel. Is there anything else i can do to improve the gun(Not HPA at this time)?

wack2011a

· #7 · Jan 23, 2012

Don't worry about disassembly the gun has very few moving parts even the trigger box is a breeze to completely dissemble and put back together.

I realise you say no HPA at this time but it really is the first thing you should do.

Try to figure out what your goal is when making the rifle, for example range-wise with certain weights as well as accuracy.

swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 23, 2012

Peyote said:
Don't worry about disassembly the gun has very few moving parts even the trigger box is a breeze to completely dissemble and put back together.

I realise you say no HPA at this time but it really is the first thing you should do.

Try to figure out what your goal is when making the rifle, for example range-wise with certain weights as well as accuracy.

Currently I run .3g bbs. I really need to step up to .4s or so as it is(my hop is almost all the way off).

So for conversations sake let's set a reasonable goal - .4s at 200' consistently. It is pretty consistent at 125' right now on .3s. How much is really going to need to be done?

wack2011a

· #9 · Jan 23, 2012

Currently I don't think there are to many brands of BBs with a weight of .4g that are worth using, I use .29SGMs in my AICS on HPA. With that being said you really have to test around before you pick a certain weight.

I would aim for a 300' mark maybe 275' accurately because I know for a fact that you can make it shoot that if you put enough time and patience in. I'm using an IR-Hop(R-Hop for cold temps) and I always suggest people to give it a go because if you get it tuned right its well worth it.

With the R-Hop its really how much time and patience you put into it.

Just remember when you run out onto the field you're going to be one of the few toting a boltie against some people with Automatics. You want to be able to take the first shot and hit that first shot before they get the chance to re-angle their spray at you.

swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 23, 2012

Peyote said:
Currently I don't think there are to many brands of BBs with a weight of .4g that are worth using, I use .29SGMs in my AICS on HPA. With that being said you really have to test around before you pick a certain weight.

I would aim for a 300' mark maybe 275' accurately because I know for a fact that you can make it shoot that if you put enough time and patience in. I'm using an IR-Hop(R-Hop for cold temps) and I always suggest people to give it a go because if you get it tuned right its well worth it.

With the R-Hop its really how much time and patience you put into it.

Just remember when you run out onto the field you're going to be one of the few toting a boltie against some people with Automatics. You want to be able to take the first shot and hit that first shot before they get the chance to re-angle their spray at you.

I would be one of 2 with a bolt action in our usual group. And both of us carry M4s as backups. My theory with the bolt action is be so quiet that they can't find me when I fire. We typically play night games so I am somewhat concealed as it is, just need to get the rifle to the point where I'm never doubting it.

My current bbs are KSC .30s, and they do work well. I run KSCs exclusively in my guns, haven't had an issue yet.

I need to read up on the R hop.

EDIT: did a little basic reading on the R hop as I had heard a lot about it but hadn't been shown it in the 3 or so years I've had high end guns. My first reaction is - that's brilliant! Why didn't I think of that?! Anyways I think I will use my stock barrel as a test platform for an R-hop(assuming installation of the new setup goes well. That way I can have my working setup to skirmish with and I can be testing on my other setup.

Also - gas gun, is the IR-hop preferable to the regular one because of the gas temps?

wack2011a

· #11 · Jan 23, 2012

As far as I can tell the stock M700 barrel is already somewhat R-Hop inclined as its actually a rounded platform about .5cm long that you adjust up and down. Whilst you generally see a hop-up rubber mound in a barrel the M700 already incorporates the platform, although it isn't very long.

I actually used the stock Tanaka M700 hop-up rubber as an R-Hop for my KWA 226. And it made a huge difference compared to the mound hop-up that it used originally. An R-Hop in a pistol is actually hilarious when you can out-shoot most AEGs with .40g BB's. Also I installed an R-Hop into my springer P99 that shoots sub-150 and its quite scary what it can achieve.

Yes an IR-Hop is preferable for gas gun users due to the colder nature of the gas. I picked the IR-Hop after having spoken to HS5 about the differences between the R and IR and he basically made it known that the differences are negligible and I play in a colder environment during the winter so thats what I went with.

I honestly suggest you look at HPA set-ups before you sink any serious cash into the rifle. Its actually great since you can use a regular 3000PSI tank with stock regulator and then just have it run onto a 000-250PSI regulator. The total cost is around $175 for a usable set-up.

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swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jan 23, 2012

Hmm.... I have a springer p99. Might have to do that lol

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to wait and see what kind of hop is in the G&G setup before i decide on the R hop, but unless it's already an R hop I'll be getting one.

Ordered 2 sets of IR-hops today, and cleared the block on my CC (caused by ordering from Redwolf lol) so hopefully the barrels will be on their way soon.

swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · #13 · Feb 7, 2012

Anyone done an R-hop on the AICS? Especially on the G&G barrels?

It the hop window in the new inner barrel is a circle. Not exactly sure how to do an R-hop with the round window other than cutting out the barrel. Is that what I'm going to have to do?

Anyways the barrel isn't as heavy as I thought it was going to be.

Cheese Man

· #14 · Feb 9, 2012

The original tanaka hop is very much like an r-hop already, I actually prefer it to the VSR design. However, I would just mill out the window and install the r-hop patch. Or, you could cut the r-hop patch in a circle, but that is a real PITA.

swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · #15 · Feb 9, 2012

Alright. Well like I said I'm going to do it to the stock barrel first and use the heavy barrel in the meantime. That will happen best week sometime.

swordfish1227

Discussion Starter · #16 · Feb 12, 2012

Alright got it apart. As you said the stock setup is an r hop for sure.

I think I have to get the G&G rubber set to make the new inner barrel work. Although I guess I could use the old inner.

Anyways I seem to have an extra part right now. It's a pin, smaller than the two that hold the hopup, not exactly sure when it came out of the gun. Anyone know what it is?

EDIT: found it. Trigger mech pin. All good now. Just have the one extra hop unit pin.

Barrel is really stable even without that forward screw that is in the stock setup. Not nearly as front heavy as I thought it would be. Looks really good.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/swordfish1227/photo.jpg

And it works perfectly. Yay I didn't screw anything up. Using the old inner and the new outer and hop.

Hitting 225' consistently. Thinking .40g bbs will bump me to at least 275'

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