[wack2011a]

A new barrel either the KM 6.04 + G&G Rubber Set or the 2-Roy VSR Chamber Conversion + 555mm 6.03 Prommy would show great signs of improvement.

I don't see how the Tango barrel will add performance and apparently it adds quite a bit of weight to the front end of the gun which is why I opted out.

Post-Ban has 2 Chambers, Pre-Ban only 1.

That is a PCS bolt except missing the adjustment screw. That probably means you're using a Pre-Ban AICS that was changed half-way through production when they didn't want to scrap all of the already made Pre-Ban rifles.

I would assume the outer barrel tappers at some point or actually tappers the whole way down. If you check your AICS barrel you'll see the diameter is rapidly reduced just before it leaves the receiver. Judging by the M24s design it either does that or actually tappers all the way down the barrel. Check youtube.com

I'm also pretty certain you'll need to use the G&G hop-up with the Tango barrel. However the Tango kit comes with a 6.04 barrel, Hop-up and all the other goodies you need to get up and running.

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Outer_Barrel_Sniper_Rifle_G_G_Steel_Barrel_Set_for_Tanaka_M24_Fluted_Type.htm

Oh yeah, make an introduction post!

 

[wack2011a]

Don't worry about disassembly the gun has very few moving parts even the trigger box is a breeze to completely dissemble and put back together.

I realise you say no HPA at this time but it really is the first thing you should do.

Try to figure out what your goal is when making the rifle, for example range-wise with certain weights as well as accuracy.

 

[wack2011a]

Currently I don't think there are to many brands of BBs with a weight of .4g that are worth using, I use .29SGMs in my AICS on HPA. With that being said you really have to test around before you pick a certain weight.

I would aim for a 300' mark maybe 275' accurately because I know for a fact that you can make it shoot that if you put enough time and patience in. I'm using an IR-Hop(R-Hop for cold temps) and I always suggest people to give it a go because if you get it tuned right its well worth it.

With the R-Hop its really how much time and patience you put into it.

Just remember when you run out onto the field you're going to be one of the few toting a boltie against some people with Automatics. You want to be able to take the first shot and hit that first shot before they get the chance to re-angle their spray at you.

 

[wack2011a]

As far as I can tell the stock M700 barrel is already somewhat R-Hop inclined as its actually a rounded platform about .5cm long that you adjust up and down. Whilst you generally see a hop-up rubber mound in a barrel the M700 already incorporates the platform, although it isn't very long.

I actually used the stock Tanaka M700 hop-up rubber as an R-Hop for my KWA 226. And it made a huge difference compared to the mound hop-up that it used originally. An R-Hop in a pistol is actually hilarious when you can out-shoot most AEGs with .40g BB's. Also I installed an R-Hop into my springer P99 that shoots sub-150 and its quite scary what it can achieve.

Yes an IR-Hop is preferable for gas gun users due to the colder nature of the gas. I picked the IR-Hop after having spoken to HS5 about the differences between the R and IR and he basically made it known that the differences are negligible and I play in a colder environment during the winter so thats what I went with.

I honestly suggest you look at HPA set-ups before you sink any serious cash into the rifle. Its actually great since you can use a regular 3000PSI tank with stock regulator and then just have it run onto a 000-250PSI regulator. The total cost is around $175 for a usable set-up.