[Zero Roaster]

Tech note: DO NOT use WD40 on anything with plastic parts. It is a solvent (petroleum distillate), not a lube...and it will eventually mess things up. If residual WD40 makes it to the hop, it could wreck that too. The plastic spray bottle they sell it in is made of material that can resist it.

Always use a synthetic, poly or silicone based lube on anything with plastic parts unless the plastic is known to be petroleum safe (not necessarily the case with airsoft guns). It might work for the short term, but eventually, the plastic and o-rings may degrade if not compatible. Hop up buckings will tend to fail as well.

 

[wyz2285]

Let's agree to disagree. do agree it is mainly a solvent, that's why I'm using it to dilute the lube.
Again, don't have any parts that are plastic that can be dissolved with WD-40. I also only apply the minimum necessary lube so nothing (hopefully) leaves the cylinder nozzle but air.

 

[Plazmaburn]

wyz2285, I wasn't talking to you specifically. Though it does help when there is more detailed information. I also did not see yours when I typed mine.

I have both c-cup and O-ring
many sizes of c-cup
also many size of O-rings
and yes i have tested on all of them
ill post pic later now im just at work

This is the last one I saw when I replied.

As far as your intro post is concerned, yes I saw it, read it, and needed to be manually approved. As the board software decided to auto moderate yours. Matter of fact, this thread needed to be approved as well. Just because no one replies to it does not mean it does not get checked for or read.

I would rather not artificially raise my post count with a bunch of "Welcome to the forum!" posts. I already have a hard enough time sifting through my 3,000+ posts looking for something I said in a thread. I dont need to compound that with 1,000+ "Welcome to the forum!" posts.

=====

As for the topic, WD-40 is not a good lubricant. Works well enough as a cutting fluid for aluminum, and to help protect steels from flash rusting. Past that its, its not really usable in airsoft as a lube.

WD-40 has been known to swell and deteriorate rubbers. Buna-N (nitrile) I think slowly degrades in it. FPM/FKM/Viton, I dont know about. I think they resist it. Silicone, breaks down. Urethane, I think swells and becomes a gel like substance. Its been a while since I have needed to pull that info out of my brain, so I could be wrong on some of it. Silicone being eaten by WD-40 is accurate though as WD-40 contains kerosene, and kerosene destroys silicone rubber.

 

[bmr3]

Let's agree to disagree. do agree it is mainly a solvent, that's why I'm using it to dilute the lube.

Again, don't have any parts that are plastic that can be dissolved with WD-40. I also only apply the minimum necessary lube so nothing (hopefully) leaves the cylinder nozzle but air.

But why? Diluting lube doesn't really make sense, just seems like extra effort to add in a substance that will eat your o-ring.

Just use Superlube and call it a day.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wyz2285]

I don't buy stuff when what I have at hand can be made to work, that's all. Never had o-ring problems so not worried about it neither. Back to the original topic, end of line is my piston is moving fine with or without the lube. I do use lube to improve the seal and for the larger o-ring to move better.

 

[Zero Roaster]

Ok, in a bolt gun, the piston may move just fine without the lube, but at some point the dryness will either cause the ring to wear flat on one side from the friction against the cylinder wall, or, the mixture of distillates and lube will eat the o-ring...eventually.

Now, in a bolt gun, the cycle is slow enough and the number of times the gun is actually fired is substantially less than an AEG and could take quite some time before you get a catastrophic fail. But it will fail. Synthetic grease is cheap...really cheap. The amount you need is minimal. Just buy the right grease, lube it properly, and enjoy your rifle for a long, long time.

 

[Jeppe]

Tbh airsoft piston o-rings are pretty forgiving compared to other pneumatic products. VSR, AEG etc. I've toyed back and forth with various o-rings before, and unless you go to the extremes they perform the same. Extremely rare that a piston o-ring actually wears out to any meaningful degree as well.

 

[Zero Roaster]

Well they're not under anywhere near the stress of most pneumatic products either. It's not like a compressor or impact tool and the likelihood of seeing a hundred psi is just about nothing. hehehehe.

Personally, I way over engineer everything I build. That way when it's done, it's done.

 

[wyz2285]

I am using a synthetic lube, I just add a little of WD-40 to make it less thick, while still stay in place. I do not use spray type lube because they always get shoot out a bit.
I enjoy teching guns more than play the game, so I never bothered with the extra longevity, I open my guns at least once a week anyways.

Used to make PCP rifles and other types of airguns, I know my stuff but thanks for the advise.

 

[kopzaxx4005]

The reason I dont mention which brand I used due to this community regulations. Its made in my country, high quality material. Polish 1 peice cnc stainless steel cylinder, harden aluminum guidring, bearing (like on ssg24) and 2 types of pistons (plunger and oring) with stainless steell at the tail part, R-hop, stock hop up chamber, 6.02mm diameter inner barrel (same stock length), cnc stainless steel 90 degree trigger both external and internal parts.

You dont have to agree with me. Its hard to admit thay this is true, even for me in the bening. I could be wrong. I couldve just made this up, who knows or there could be some stupid factors I haved missed. so, lets just try it for yourself and let us know what results you guys got. Experiament from many different people are the best way to prove this theory.

 

[nearsighted_ash]

Do you use any lube in your cylinder and on your piston head?