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The degree stuff has 2 meanings.
In buckings it stands for durometer shore hardness, but in triggers it means the angle at which the piston catch is set.
A 90° trigger will have the piston catch going straight up while a 45° trigger will have it set back at a 45 degree angle.

For power, if your gun is upgraded to last, then I would say push the field limit, but if your gun is stock then I'd say leave it at that power until you replace the trigger and piston and maybe other parts.
Doesn't always apply to some guns, but for the most part it does.
 

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If your new to airsoft, I wouldnt push your power to the max. I watched a new sniper with an SSG10 wreck a regular with a 3.6J/.43g at 15ft with a headshot this weekend. I almost shot some dipshit kid in the back of the head when he walked in front of me right before I pulled the trigger. He was less then 5ft. Good thing I have better situational awareness then most and better trigger control... (think my vsr has a .5lb trigger pull, its silly light.)

I did kinda loose my shit a little and said something to him as soon as he did.
 
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These are some good points. With power comes responsibility (Ice being a 52yo dad he know what that is way more than me LOL). Now there are a lot of dad's I run into that do not realize the power these things can have and just look at all airsoft guns as toys. The worst feeling in airsoft is accidentally hurting someone. I guess that is why I like running a low power build sometimes is I can play aggressive with out that responsibility. Kinda like those old back yard "clearsoft" games. Had a blast with that! So before you actually play, shoot some things close range and see the power these things got. Have some one shoot you at a reasonable range. Decide from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The simple answer: yes basically. 40d softer than 80d. Most on here go for around 60d as the softness provides enough "tack" but still pretty durable.

You by no means need to push the limits to have a playable weapon. Cons are you may loose a little range. It will not be any more "acurate/precise". It really depends on how you play and the field you play in. If you can only take 60yd shots (due to field size or max line-of-sight), not much difference between a 1.5J build and 2.3J build except time-to-target and the "ouchie effect". In my experience (which there are many on here who have a lot more) there is not a "huge" range difference within .4 joule (say 450 to 500) and even less if you do not have the access to heavy ammo to support the power (say shooting .25g at 2.3J does not increase range much from 1.8J and is not even noticeable). Now if you have the heavy ammo to support the high power, you will see a small difference. If you are within .2J, you will probably not even notice. As a sniper with a bolt action, every little last bit helps to keep up with the AEGs especially if the aeg limit is close..
Thanks for the info !!!

So some questions for you, what is the AEG limits and is there a lot of shot opportunities over 60yds?
Here is a copy paste from the rules doc:

AEG's & sidearms 1.5 Joules
DMR's 1.9 Joules w/ 50 ft. MED
Bolt action 2.3 Joules w/100ft. MED
DMR and Bolt must carry a sidearm for engagement under the Minimum Engagement Distance.
Rate of fire (ROF); maximum ROF for guns intending to utilise full auto will be 30RPS.

I wouldnt say there is likely a LOT of opportunities over 60m no. A lot of the play is in wooded areas with a few open areas (container lot, open field).
 

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AEG's & sidearms 1.5 Joules
DMR's 1.9 Joules w/ 50 ft. MED
Bolt action 2.3 Joules w/100ft. MED
DMR and Bolt must carry a sidearm for engagement under the Minimum Engagement Distance.
Rate of fire (ROF); maximum ROF for guns intending to utilise full auto will be 30RPS.

I wouldnt say there is likely a LOT of opportunities over 60m no. A lot of the play is in wooded areas with a few open areas (container lot, open field).
With this info, to me what would make the most sense is to run a DMR. If you still would like to run a bolt action, I would make sure you are running at (might be nice for the shorter MED) or over 1.9J as you want at least some advantage over the DMRs. Doesn't sound completely necessary to hit the 2.3J cap. One positive thing for the BASR is that your field is wooded so I would assume good cover for concealment in which case the quietness of the BASR will come in handy if you are the sneaky/ambush type player.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
With this info, to me what would make the most sense is to run a DMR. If you still would like to run a bolt action, I would make sure you are running at (might be nice for the shorter MED) or over 1.9J as you want at least some advantage over the DMRs. Doesn't sound completely necessary to hit the 2.3J cap. One positive thing for the BASR is that your field is wooded so I would assume good cover for concealment in which case the quietness of the BASR will come in handy if you are the sneaky/ambush type player.
I am definitely NOT an aggressive or run and gun style player. I tend to be very cautious and move slowly, crawling etc. Some rounds I have played and not even made enemy contact, which is well, not very fun. Which is why I am thinking that perhaps sniper might be more rewarding for me. I feel that perhaps sniper more suits my play style/disposition.

DMR might be a nice compromise though between a full on assault style play and sniper?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Merry Christmas to me.

I found a guy local (like, "my city" local , so no shipping cost) who can get me a CSI JG Bar 10 GSPEC clone for $170 CAD (plus tax).

It's this gun: https://www.evike.com/products/42716/

I did some homework and have determined that this is a rebranded and somewhat improved WELL clone of the JG Bar 10 GSPEC. Apparently I has a full metal silencer instead of the JG plastic one and full VSR 10 compatibility.

https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/8298-jg-bar-10-csi-vsr-10-a.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/39x65f/csi_vsr10_gspec_clone_mini_review/
I realize there will be upgrades eventually but I am looking forward to this journey.

Thanks guys!
 

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I am definitely NOT an aggressive or run and gun style player. I tend to be very cautious and move slowly, crawling etc. Some rounds I have played and not even made enemy contact, which is well, not very fun. Which is why I am thinking that perhaps sniper might be more rewarding for me. I feel that perhaps sniper more suits my play style/disposition.
Cool, a BASR sounds like it would be right up your alley.
Merry Christmas to me.

I found a guy local (like, "my city" local , so no shipping cost) who can get me a CSI JG Bar 10 GSPEC clone for $170 CAD (plus tax).

It's this gun: https://www.evike.com/products/42716/

I did some homework and have determined that this is a rebranded and somewhat improved WELL clone of the JG Bar 10 GSPEC. Apparently I has a full metal silencer instead of the JG plastic one and full VSR 10 compatibility.

https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/4...-vsr-10-a.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/com...e_mini_review/

I realize there will be upgrades eventually but I am looking forward to this journey.

Thanks guys!
Awesome! Congrats there on your find! As far as upgrades go, based on your gameplay style, I would give it a good clean first (use rubbing achohol to clean inside barrel, warm soapy water to clean hopup packing, lightly grease all metal to metal/plastic friction areas, and lightly oil o-ring and cylinder bore with silicon oil) then do some DIY mods and play with it like that first and see how you like it. I would focus on accuracy mod.s (couple tape barrel spacers, shim hop up arm, use ptfe tape to seal any air leaks), heavy ammo, quietness mods (taping a couple spring coils, sorbothane piston/cylinder head, fill mock suppressor) and an optic (I have had good luck with cheapy real rifle scopes). With this you should have a very playable gun if you are patient. If you really like playing this way, and just want a little more range, start adding the upgrades.

Edit:
You can even bore out the cylinder head and radius the inside of it to gain some extra power (10-20fps in my experience with a stock setup).
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Cool, a BASR sounds like it would be right up your alley.

Awesome! Congrats there on your find! As far as upgrades go, based on your gameplay style, I would give it a good clean first (use rubbing achohol to clean inside barrel, warm soapy water to clean hopup packing, lightly grease all metal to metal/plastic friction areas, and lightly oil o-ring and cylinder bore with silicon oil) then do some DIY mods and play with it like that first and see how you like it. I would focus on accuracy mod.s (couple tape barrel spacers, shim hop up arm, use ptfe tape to seal any air leaks), heavy ammo, quietness mods (taping a couple spring coils, sorbothane piston/cylinder head, fill mock suppressor) and an optic (I have had good luck with cheapy real rifle scopes). With this you should have a very playable gun if you are patient. If you really like playing this way, and just want a little more range, start adding the upgrades.

Edit:
You can even bore out the cylinder head and radius the inside of it to gain some extra power (10-20fps in my experience with a stock setup).
I am not yet comfortable going inside guns to do things: I am a bit afraid to mess things up. I do have teflon tape I believe on hand and will definitely order heavier BBs (which I was going to do anyways for my MP5) and a scope. I probably wont do too much more until:

a) I feel more comfortable going inside the gun - I will likely disassemble my mp5 to see if I can figure out why it has sub-optimal range/accuracy.
b) I have played a couple games and know whether or not I am going to enjoy this role as much as I think I will LOL

How would I know if barrel spacers are necessary on a gun?
 

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I am not yet comfortable going inside guns to do things: I am a bit afraid to mess things up. I do have teflon tape I believe on hand and will definitely order heavier BBs (which I was going to do anyways for my MP5) and a scope. I probably wont do too much more until:

a) I feel more comfortable going inside the gun - I will likely disassemble my mp5 to see if I can figure out why it has sub-optimal range/accuracy.
b) I have played a couple games and know whether or not I am going to enjoy this role as much as I think I will LOL
At very least do these couple things which is basically cleaning inner barrel good and testing performance. This is the process I go thru to tune a gun if I do not have a lot of time(or doing as a favor for someone).
1. If you have a chronograph, measure velocity to establish a baseline for max output, and velocity consistency. If not use the coke can "poor mans chrono". If velocity is lower than advertised, could point to a problem.
2. Turn your hopup all the way off and use a clean cloth (I use .22 cleaning patches), some rubbing alcohol, and cleaning rod to clean potential gunk out of inner barrel. Run a dry one through to clean any remaining alcohol out. (you can actually skip this step the first time, I just like to see what comes out of the barrel the first time lol).
3. Test velocity again. Turn hop-up back on with some over hop and shoot around 25-50 good quality .20g though it. This does a couple things. It helps you see if your packing/nub is aligned (are they hopping straight up) as over hopped .2 exaggerate any misaligned hop packing/nub. The other thing it does is give a chance for any excess grease/oil in the cylinder to come out into the barrel.
4. Repeat step 2
5. Repeat step 3 except this time fire 100-500 .20 though it. This is doing the same things but also is helping to start bedding in your hop packing.
6. Double check that inner barrel is still clean with a quick swab.
7. Start testing with heavy bb.s. From the advertised velocity, I would start with at least .30g then work up to .43g. Just shoot them and watch them fly. Then test output in joules. If you don't want to do this step, I would recommend just getting .36g or .40g.

How would I know if barrel spacers are necessary on a gun?
They are not really necessary unless the stock spacer is missing and inner barrel is just flopping around inside outer barrel. They just help stabilize inner barrel and therefore help with accuracy. Chances are though you may not even notice a difference. Just one of those things that if it has the potential to help with accuracy, why not? (sorta like trying to reach the velocity limits). It doesn't cost that much and you may have painters tape to make your own lying around.
 

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Honestly the bolt action is the easier to work on then the MP5.

I would get the Archwick Chamber. Better then the AA chamber in my opinion. Considering that you just got the rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
At very least do these couple things which is basically cleaning inner barrel good and testing performance. This is the process I go thru to tune a gun if I do not have a lot of time(or doing as a favor for someone).
Cool thanks for this!

7. Start testing with heavy bb.s. From the advertised velocity, I would start with at least .30g then work up to .43g. Just shoot them and watch them fly. Then test output in joules. If you don't want to do this step, I would recommend just getting .36g or .40g.
I actually made another post about bb weight. That's pretty heavy! The vendor recommended .3s.

Not sure if my understanding is correct but is it better to use heavier bbs for shorter barrels? (This has A 303mm inner AFAIK).

They are not really necessary unless the stock spacer is missing and inner barrel is just flopping around inside outer barrel. They just help stabilize inner barrel and therefore help with accuracy. Chances are though you may not even notice a difference. Just one of those things that if it has the potential to help with accuracy, why not? (sorta like trying to reach the velocity limits). It doesn't cost that much and you may have painters tape to make your own lying around.
So painters tape? That's easy enough LOL. Are barrel spacers any good? I saw someone had a pack of 5 for like $3
 

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Not sure if my understanding is correct but is it better to use heavier bbs for shorter barrels? (This has A 303mm inner AFAIK).
Yes, hence my suggestion. It may be on the heavy side for the velocity but with the short barrel I think you will have better performance, quieter, and more power output granted if your gun can hop them (which it should). Your best bet is to get a few different weights and test.
So painters tape? That's easy enough LOL. Are barrel spacers any good? I saw someone had a pack of 5 for like $3
If you can get already made spacers 5 for $3, do it! That is a steel. Making painters tape spacers works well too and cheap. It just takes a little patience. Again, you probably won't notice a difference unless you paper test indoors (which is a good idea to start doing). Two spacers are good and three is plenty.

Like Plaz said, vsr-10 are easy to work on. Don't feel afraid to take it apart and don't feel bad to just use it stock for a bit to get the feel for it and the taste (do clean it and use quality heavy bb to give it a chance to win your heart lol).
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yes, hence my suggestion. It may be on the heavy side for the velocity but with the short barrel I think you will have better performance, quieter, and more power output granted if your gun can hop them (which it should). Your best bet is to get a few different weights and test.
Ya, my mp5 has a really short barrel (~144mm), and I am now reading that I should be using .3s or heavier in that instead of the .2s I have been using. Does someone sell a variety pack LOL?

If you can get already made spacers 5 for $3, do it!
OK so it turns out I may have misunderstood a listing. These are not actual barrel spacers?

https://andysairsoft.ca/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1772
 

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Ya, my mp5 has a really short barrel (~144mm), and I am now reading that I should be using .3s or heavier in that instead of the .2s I have been using. Does someone sell a variety pack LOL?
I don't know of a quality variety pack. There are a couple out there but bb quality is concerning at best. Too bad. Actually sounds like a great idea for some one to repackage a variety of BLS bbs and market.
OK so it turns out I may have misunderstood a listing. These are not actual barrel spacers?

https://andysairsoft.ca/index.php?ro...roduct_id=1772
Nope, those are just orings for aeg barrel spacing (which I have had limited luck with). VSR-10 barrel spacers are what you want (there is a lot of space between inner and outer barrel on vsrs.
https://www.evike.com/products/91155/#pagetabs
These are normally quite pricey for what they are. If you have access to a 3d printer, that is the way to go. If not, use painters tape and wrap a bunch of nice neat layers until it is the right size. If you have more money than time, just pay the piper.
 

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Thanks for the info !!!


Here is a copy paste from the rules doc:

AEG's & sidearms 1.5 Joules
DMR's 1.9 Joules w/ 50 ft. MED
Bolt action 2.3 Joules w/100ft. MED
DMR and Bolt must carry a sidearm for engagement under the Minimum Engagement Distance.
Rate of fire (ROF); maximum ROF for guns intending to utilise full auto will be 30RPS.

I wouldnt say there is likely a LOT of opportunities over 60m no. A lot of the play is in wooded areas with a few open areas (container lot, open field).
Are you from Quebec? I live in Montreal and I planned to order a ssg10 since fully upgraded JG vsr10 costs more
 
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