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My sniper rifle had no spacers but I made my own using masking tape wrapped around the barrel in three places so that it fitted nice and tight. My accuracy has increased greatly with first round hits an easy possiblity. plus, it cost me next to nothing. I don't see the point in buying them when making them is alot cheaper and preforms just as good.
 

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I use a full length paper barrel spacer.

Yes, they are definitely worth it because they will improve your consistency in accuraccy, but there are cheaper alternatives. The was barrel spacer is a good one but I've never tried it myself!
 

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I agree with them. They are a very big improvement in accuracy and consistancy. I make my own also and I wouldnt buy any. Masking tape does the trick. I would start with the very front one first. Each one you make, test it by sliding your inner barrel into your barrel and make sure its right and move to the next one and then test its fit. On the vsr rifles the barrel tapers and gets smaller towards the front so each spacer would be larger than the one before it. Leave some space near the tip for your endcap and some space for your hop up slider adjuster. "I sreiously suggest a TDC hopup mod and shim your hopup arm" I hate them slide adjusters cause I always bump mine and it drives me mad,lol.. the TDC mod is a great mod and you can find how to do in on here someplace. Make sure you take pics of your rifle cause we ALL love gun porn!! If you have ANY questions dont hesitate to ask bro.. Were here to help...:tup:
 

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They are necessary to any airsoft gun, whether its springer,gas or aeg... Most every aeg has a tight enough fit for the inner barrel to slide in the outer barrel nice and snug. All inner barrels move when shooting. If you was to put an m16 inner barrel into an mp5 you would have wobble from the tip of the outer barrel to the tip of the inner barrel. Therefore a suppressor with something to support the extra length is needed. If you care about accuracy that is.. but if you like your aeg spitting bbs all over and not hitting dead on then they arent needed. I dont see how you think otherwise!

Edit......

I hope you dont think I am trying to be nasty or anything Wolfgeorge,lol.. I mean no harm and I am simply just talking with ya my friend..
 

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I was recently watching a video from AirsoftGI advertising a replica Barrett M82. Now, that's a really long gun with an exceptionally long barrel, being a to-scale replica, and the most astounding thing about it wasn't its weight or its power, but the fact that beyond the hop-up unit, the inner barrel had no support whatsoever, not even at the far end at the muzzle break. I would check if your gun already has spacers, and if they're to your liking, don't bother getting new ones.
 

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Really? That dosnt make any sense,lol.. How could that happen? I got soooooo much better results after I made mine in both mine and my kids bar10 and with my old rifles back in the day. I had a buddy who owned 2 barrets but we dont talk these days so I cant ask how his was inside. He moved away and I never got his new number. I cant imagine how much better it would be after adding some. That would be sick! Hahaha... I about broke in half when I tried his rifle in a game. That sunuva gun was heavy!!! There is no way I would ever want one. And I hear its really an l96 inder that sweet metal body.
 

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You just have to be strong enough to be able to use the heavy guns. I filled my bar10 with clay so it now weight 9 pounds. I have no trouble carrying it long distances/long periods of time.

I got the after market spacers I use for 15$ back when I was just starting sniping. Now I wouldn't get them because I make my own. If you have a cylindrical barrel you should make a one piece paper or wax barrel spacer. I have the conical tapered barrel so I can't use a one piece spacer even though I wish I could. Instead of using tape I used some foam rubber and packed it tightly in between the inner and outer barrels. Works well and takes some hitting the end on the floor to get it all the way in there it's so snug.
 

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Manufactured barrel spacers are not worth the money. You would need at least 3 pairs to get near the effectiveness of making your own spacers.

I have aftermarket spacers and I've tried all the DIY methods you can find online. I've personally settled on a wax spacer.

Unless you can buy several pairs of aftermarket spacers, I would highly recommend making your own tape spacer, paper spacer, or wax spacer.
 

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I used a high density foam... It absorbs more vibration! Paper will keep it stiff, but lets the vibration travel through easier. Did you know sound travels on the air in a wave called a frequency, and your barrel resonates on a frequency. So using foams to space (one piece is best IMO) the barrel can help silence the weapon too...
Also I would like to thank Ranger for teaching me how to make barrel spacers here... http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?p=43344
Sent from my MB870 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk 2
 

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I used a high density foam... It absorbs more vibration! Paper will keep it stiff, but lets the vibration travel through easier.
It has been tested and proven that the solid spacers work better than soft spacers like foam. I won't give an explanation because I will probably get it wrong or not get the whole thing, so I will leave that to someone else.
 

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Foam absorbs sound better than a solid spacer because it is a porous material with more effective sound absorbing properties. Vibration is dispersed mostly at the inner barrel and foam spacers.

Solid spacers reduce higher amounts of vibrations regarding the inner barrel so there's less sound generated overall. Vibration is dispersed more evenly throughout the inner barrel, solid spacers, and outer barrel because the vibration is better dispersed by a solid channel rather than a porous material.

An easier way to see it:

Solid spacers are better at preventing sound from happening while foam spacers are better at absorbing sound after it has been created.

In either case, the sound advantage over one or the other may be negligible, but the vibration reduction of the inner barrel is greater for a solid spacer. So concerning accuracy, solid spacers will yield more preferable results.

However, it's not wrong to use foam spacers :yup:. If you packed it well and are content with the results, then in my opinion it works just fine :tup:.
 
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You just have to be strong enough to be able to use the heavy guns. I filled my bar10 with clay so it now weight 9 pounds. I have no trouble carrying it long distances/long periods of time.
Yeah I have degenerative disk disease and bulging disks.. Heavy is one thing, anything heavier than a vsr right now will put me out of commision for a week,lol.. before this back issue I woulda been fine as I was a roofer for over 10 years and was used to carrying heavy stuff. My m14 last year was too heavy so I was forced to trade it off for a g36. My M28 was even too much and made my back stiffen up withing 10 minutes and then I couldnt walk.

A few years ago before I got hurt I was able to do one armed chin up with either arm! So yeah its not that I'm weak like a little girl,lol.. I'm injured.

And I totally agree with Kranium. I am using a full lenght foam wrap with tape on my inner barrel. Its quiet as all heck. But my piston slam fires 75% of the time right now so I cant hardly do much testing on its accuracy right now. My kids barrel spacers are masking tape and his ridle has like a "poing" noise when it shoots. I believe that echo from the sound in the barrel or something like that. I plan to keep them different for a few games and then change his to be like mine with the foam wrap. Then I will know for sure.
 

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However, it's not wrong to use foam spacers :yup:. If you packed it well and are content with the results, then in my opinion it works just fine :tup:.
Now I have a question. As you can see in my sig, I am using a mix of tightly packed foam rubber and some old aftermarket spacers. If the foam is packed tight enough, could it potentially work just as well as paper or wax? I have it packed pretty tight in there.

I might try out some wax spacers because my outer barrel is conical, not cylindrical. I will have to research how to do it later.
 

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Now I have a question. As you can see in my sig, I am using a mix of tightly packed foam rubber and some old aftermarket spacers. If the foam is packed tight enough, could it potentially work just as well as paper or wax? I have it packed pretty tight in there.

I might try out some wax spacers because my outer barrel is conical, not cylindrical. I will have to research how to do it later.
A wax spacer will pack the empty space between the inner barrel and outer barrel completely so your method can produce similar results, but a wax spacer is more mechanically sound. Give it a shot and let us know how it turns out :)

Btw, I've done a method similar to yours and although it probably wasn't exactly the same, I tried a wax spacer and never went back to anything else.

@Ranger- The sound can be caused by a difference in BB weight, barrel bore, barrel brand, FPS, air seal, hop up, and so forth.

If your foam spacer encompasses a greater length than his tape spacers, then your rifle will probably be more quiet. The one concept I would have to endorse regardless of material is that:

full-length spacers of material 'X' > non-full-length spacers of material 'X'

I think that's a statement nobody will argue with :yup:.
 

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@Ranger- The sound can be caused by a difference in BB weight, barrel bore, barrel brand, FPS, air seal, hop up, and so forth.

If your foam spacer encompasses a greater length than his tape spacers, then your rifle will probably be more quiet. The one concept I would have to endorse regardless of material is that:

full-length spacers of material 'X' > non-full-length spacers of material 'X'

I think that's a statement nobody will argue with :yup:.
I was only dry firing it lastnight to hear if there was any difference. their both Bar10's with the same piston,inner barrel,hopup. I dont know for sure if I wrapped his cylinder head with teflon yet or not. I cant remember,lol.. But his fps is lower than mine by a little. I dont have a chrono to know how much yet but his spring is softer than mine by a little bit. I know his cylinder is an aluminum one while mine looks like a stainless steel or something. Way more glossy than his and his rear of his cylinder was crimped into the bolt handle thing :I dont know the name of it" and mine has pins running threw it. I also do have a different cylinder head. I also noticed his head goes all the way into the cylinder while mine stops at the o ring. so when all the way tightened I can still see the black ring slightly. I cant say if thats ok or not but it will not go past it no matter how tight I try. I can take pics and post em on another thread in the morning. I have lots of stuff to do tonight and wont have the time to mess with it.
 

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A visible o-ring should not affect performance as long as the airseal is tight.

In terms of sound though... I've never tested an o-ring inside the cylinder vs. an o-ring wedged near the threads >:D. Never passed my mind. All I know is with constant use and manipulation of internals, the o-ring may eventually settle perfectly inside the cylinder; it's just a matter of time.

Oh by the way, dry firing is okay to determine a general sound difference. Don't forget the hop-up levels though! Assuming similar "FPSs", a hop-up turned up really high will be a lot quieter than one that has little or no hop-up.
 

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I recently swapped my cylinder to this shiny one since I saw it looked stronger. I tried a few different cylinder heads and all ended up the same way. So I guess this cylinder is just different. But I was afraid of the crimped style one cause I've seen the come apart before. In my own hands! My old rifle did that. I wanna say it was just a cheap old m50 swiss arms or something like that. It was a sorta alright rifle I guess. I wanna say the cylinder head wasnt removable so it was un upgradable without a new cylinder. Once it popped I did everything I could to save it but it was dead in the water at that point. I got a Socom gear R700 after that and it was ok. Nothing super special,just ok. I must admit I do like these Bar10's though. They feel nice and solid and no creaks like them other rifles. My M28 is bad assed though!! Thats why I used the stock for my Bar10 once it died. Well worth the work I did to make it fit. I suggest getting an m28 from a boneyard deal just for the mags,magwell and stock! Its more than worth it!!!
 
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