[Masterjuggler98]

You just have to be strong enough to be able to use the heavy guns. I filled my bar10 with clay so it now weight 9 pounds. I have no trouble carrying it long distances/long periods of time.

I got the after market spacers I use for 15$ back when I was just starting sniping. Now I wouldn't get them because I make my own. If you have a cylindrical barrel you should make a one piece paper or wax barrel spacer. I have the conical tapered barrel so I can't use a one piece spacer even though I wish I could. Instead of using tape I used some foam rubber and packed it tightly in between the inner and outer barrels. Works well and takes some hitting the end on the floor to get it all the way in there it's so snug.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

I used a high density foam... It absorbs more vibration! Paper will keep it stiff, but lets the vibration travel through easier.

It has been tested and proven that the solid spacers work better than soft spacers like foam. I won't give an explanation because I will probably get it wrong or not get the whole thing, so I will leave that to someone else.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

However, it's not wrong to use foam spacers :yup:. If you packed it well and are content with the results, then in my opinion it works just fine :tup:.

Now I have a question. As you can see in my sig, I am using a mix of tightly packed foam rubber and some old aftermarket spacers. If the foam is packed tight enough, could it potentially work just as well as paper or wax? I have it packed pretty tight in there.

I might try out some wax spacers because my outer barrel is conical, not cylindrical. I will have to research how to do it later.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

The bolt handle on my old Well mb10 is crimped and it has lasted me for the past 2 years now. Guess I justgot lucky. Anyway, I just realized I have never put barrel spacers in my Well mb10 because With it's 200ft range and the th I only use it to play around shooting with iron sights in my backyard, I never felt the need to. (Pretend this is a new paragraph. Having problems with the enter key again.) So I recently discovered oogoo, a cheap alternative to sugru. I wonder how well it would be at quieting my ba10. Right now I have everything clayed but I am constantly getting clay flaking off when I take off the assembly from the stock. Silent do you know how well silicone rubber stops echos compared to clay?

 

[Masterjuggler98]

I have everything clayed and have enough foam stuffed into the smaller places. I am wondering if this silicone rubber "oogoo" (look it up on instructables) is any good for this.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

My clay I'm pretty sure is modeling. It is one of those "never dries" clays. It doesn't really ship but whenever I pull out the assembly from the stock it pulls along a little bit of the clay with it and when I fully take it out, the little tab behind the trigger guard that holds the receiver in place scrapes some clay out with it too.

I'm going to try out some of that silicone rubber stuff, "oogoo", and see how well it works for stopping echoes and vibrations. Might even use that as a barrel spacer if I can get the mixture to produce a dense enough rubber.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

Is there a guide anywhere for the wax spacer? Tried researching it but just came up with results of how much better it is than other spacers. I would like a guide for the wax spacer because I can add some paint thinner to the oogoo mixture to give it any consistency I want before it cures. If I can get it to act like melted wax then I can use the same process. Otherwise I have to plan out the whole thing from scratch.

I just got the materials to make oogoo so I am about to experiment with it to see if it has the right density for a barrel spacer (as in if it is too soft it wouldn't be too good).

 

[Masterjuggler98]

So I just tested the density of oogoo with a 1:1 cornstarch to caulk ratio. Seems a little bit denser than those small rubber bouncy balls with a color on each side. Seems like it would work as an effective spacer but I'll wait for Silent's input on if this is dense enough before I make spacers out of it.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

Silent, this stuff is dirt cheap. In fact if I were to buy dirt from homedepot I would probably be paying more. A 10oz tube of the silicone caulk costs 4$ and the cornstartch is like 3ish. I just made a scrap piece to test out how it feels that I can also test the density of probably. But it is rubber so I don't know if that will pose a problem. I just have to find out how to measure the density because I don't have a scale that accurate, or know of anything that weighs less than .05g to test with a balance. I could use bbs but it would be roughly within .2g. I could up the volume of the rubber to get a more accurate reading though.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

So I did some testing with the density of the rubber. Keep in mind this is only rough but I did try my best to be as precise as possible. So I first measured out exactly 1ml of the rubber with the water displacement using a graduated cylinder method. I had previously made a balance scale with a two foot long steel rod with a medicine cup at either end for the pans. I also set up a leveled protractor so when I put stuff in it I could see exactly which is heavier for when I make things out of various powders (not going into that now).

I made sure the balance was exactly 0 degrees, meaning level with the ground or gravity. I put the 1ml of water in the left cup and the right rose to 20 degrees. When I put the 1ml of rubber into the right cup it sunk below the 0 degree mark and the cup with the water in it rose to 5 degrees.

I can't make out too much from this info because I don't have much experience with this, but from what I can tell the rubber's density is slightly over that of water, maybe 1.05g/ml or 1.1g/ml. Does that result sound right?

 

[Masterjuggler98]

if it sank slowly in the water i would say that sounds about right,

Well it sinks about three times slower than a piece of pink eraser so I would call that sinking slowly.