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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys/gals, this my first post. I am looking to buy my first rifle. I pretty set on the ARES AW-338. I've been in love with the L96 platform for years. I'm in the process of actualy building a "realsteel" version, well it's been a loooong project lol. Anyways I would like to know what upgrades are possble with this rifle. I like the fact that this version has a very ralistic "feel" to it, when I spoke with Airsoft Gi they stated that the only thing you can do to it, is buy a "O" ring kit upgrade. I've stumbled across a few threads that talked about barrels, triggers and external air systems. If someone could please provide a list of know upgrades, I would greatly apreciate it. Thanks again :)
 

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You'll find more info if you search the forums.

AEG TBBs 650mm
AEG buckings
ARES hammer spring
ARES o-ring kit
ARES gasket
external HPA or nitrogen
dual regulator air rig

External Air will be the best gain in performance but even then if your seals are off you will be missing a good bit of desired performance. Haveing an air rig with two regulators allow you to dial the PSI more accurately with more stability. Use a 450PSI output HPA tank if you can. Use the springs, o-ring kits and gaskets to keep your system problem free. They are all stock parts so think of them as ware parts not upgrades. AEG bucking and barrels... (does this really need to be explained?) Try ehobbyasia for the parts.

good luck
 

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Yes you can shoot 300', but you have to factor in the amount of skill a marksmen acquires over time not only with his rifle but with how the environment impacts it's performance. I have seen shots confirmed at farther distances closer to 400' in game at 550FPS. Obviously I did not make these shots. I more into a spotter's role. I am not a great shot but my M60 can shoot 300'. Limit me to a single shot and you would probably do fine but with a 60rnd burst I can get the remainder of a squad to re-route their direction. Which is great for my sniper that needs more time to line up a shot than me. I just heard the flock and makes the shots.
The Ares AW-338 is not just a L96 its its an AI-338 which has been and I think is still used in a military application by Great Britain. You can probably find better trades but it is a great rifle that I prefer over the Tanaka from a technical and financial stand point. Which, at the end of the day, is still just a Remington M700 either way you dress it. Ares has a much better replica, end result performance is a matter of money and patience between the two, but the Ares IMO is the better of the two. Some praise the Tanaka PCS bolt but its pointless with external air which is a primary upgrade for any gas rifle. External air is like bathing your VSR-10 in PDI or Laylax parts. Whether this is the "best" L96 of both spring and gas replicas is even more debatable.

I'm curious to know your age and how long you have been playing airsoft? Let me guess, you are a noob?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am noob to airsoft. But not to realsteel fire arms. I build ARs as a hobby, I'm just now starting to build bolt action rifles. I'm working on my own clone using Accuracy International chasis system. My main reason for geting into airsoft is for the price and fun aspec of it. I'm honestly geting tired of pay $300 to $400 for 1k rounds and having them gone in a day of training. I'm a tinkerer so this is a new thing for my wife to give me crap for.:) It will be a long time before I actualy play. I'm 30 btw. Mateba, ould you a recomindation of a wright up on how to build a HPA system and their applications. I've been looking, but you seem to know your stuff so your input is valueable. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thats exactly what I was lookin for, thank you very much. I will post my built in the right forum when I start. Again I am new to the Airsoft. What brands make quality parts? As far as tanks, regulators and such.
 

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I have played paintball for 6years if you get a tank, dont get a steel one from walmart they are rated for 2-3 years. at the end of that time you have to have it tested, most of the time they dont pass. you want a tank like this
http://www.paintball-online.com/shop/Product/Pure-Energy-Paintball-Tanks/Pure-Energy-50ci-4500psi-HPA-Tank-w-And--Reactor-2-Regulator-TKNP4550R.aspx
it has a 5 year rating before re-test, I just had my tanks tested and they passed. My friend had a steel version and it failed so he had to buy a new tank, so dont waste your money and go with carbon wrapped tanks.

The tank the link shows is a peanut, it is more then enough to last you all day if you are using a regulator at a med-low setting(around 400 to 500 fps).

If you want more explanation here is a youtube vid

[flash=350,287:s4ytxuik]http://www.youtube.com/v/e1GBPXFBUzc&hl=en&fs=1[/flash:s4ytxuik]
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That should help explain everything you need do run a air source other then your mag, I highly suggest you upgrade all of your internals before you do this. You do not want to go to shoot this and it explode on you(it wont explode just break and let alot of air out). Hope this helps any other ?'s about tanks or paintball just ask
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I started watching that vid, that's funny lol. I liked his set up from what I saw of it. I'm now brain storming on how I want to attach it to my person. I'm probably going to attach to a vest, before it's all over I will make a few and try out differant attachment points. Thanks so much for the replys. You guys seem alot more mature then the other forums.
 

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ARES is suppose to come out with a Magazine that holds a CO2 cartridge in the mag.

that should be interesting. I just saw photos of the product/prototype. Haven't really researched into it further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That does sound interesting. I'm geting a parts list together for the HPA rig. Wife said she would buy me the AW338 for my birthday..... Yay wifey. So I'm geting the rest of the gear sorted out. Maybe I'll be shooting with in a month or two
 

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pkidd said:
hidden187
What internals do you have to upgrade before using an external air rig?
Better orings maybe a stronger hopup, when you put a hpa tank on you are adding more pressure then what that gun is ment for, that is why you have a regulator on the air rig to keep your gun from poping. so i guss im wrong on internals but rather the parts for the rig from air tank to mag and everything in between. i will ask a friend what he did to his scar that runs on hpa then get back to you on that(might not be alot of help cuz thats a gbb and this is a sniper).
 

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Glad to hear you are only a noob to airsoft. Welcome to airsoft and to the forums. I raised an eyebrow to the 300' question and automatically assumed you might still be dreaming of the day your mom won't have to pick you up from the mall. Sorry. Its not that I dislike our teenage couterparts but they tend to post hopes and dreams instead of actual goals. With that said you have nice tastes in replicas. :) Don't forget about a sidearm. Regardless of what anyone says Tokyo Marui GBB pistols are some of the most skirmishable handgun replicas on the market.

Don't go cheap on your air rig. This is your primary air rig and you don't need a carbonfiber wraped tank. Go buy a used one in person at a paintball park. BUT CHECK THE HYDRO DATE!, no one fills an out of date tank. Look specifically for a low output or 450PSI output tank if they have it. The links below are great sorces from guys that rely on their rigs. I would just buy one if I were you unless you have some of the parts already.

http://classicairsoft.org/forum/showthread.php?8764-Tumerboy-s-rig-guide

http://classicairsoft.org/forum/showthread.php?9002-WTS-Pre-assembled-dual-reg-gas-rigs

HPA is not harder on your gun! Its totaly different from using in-gas mags. In-gas mags require enough gas to opperate a whole mag plus while HPA does not. Which is why your first shots are terribely hot or low. Hot, due to excess pressure or low due to too much pressure in the mag. HPA opperates on maintaining a PSI level and topping off the mag as the volume and pressure changes. Now, its not harder on your gun but it may be harder on your hop-up bucking. I have exceed 800FPS with external air and a rifle before. Your mag on HPA is just a cylinder or an expansion chamber with CO2. CO2 mags opperate on 12g which have MUCH higher PSI, >1000PSI. Unregulated anything, be it propane or CO2, opperates in a balence of pressure and how long the valve in knocked open by the striker so it will always change. HPA, regarless of how long the valve is open will only allow "said" PSI. Volume does matter in this case but you are essentially looking at the difference of nimh and 7.4v lipos in terms of performance and wear and tear on motors if that makes any sence.

You do not need to upgrade a thing to go external air. I run my TM 1911 on higher PSI than any of my other replicas, ~140+PSI. All you need to focus on is tapping that mag, your air rig and accuracy upgrades as said above. DO not store your replicas outside your closet. You don't want to lose a seal.

You might want to try placing your tank in a camlebak or a hydrant pouch off of country comm. I have tried many things buy since you are only running a bolt action rifle try 13ci 3000psi tanks. They are very slim and should be very easy to hide.

I used 1/8"NPT tap which requires a 11/32" bit and a pilot hole. Go easy on the tap. Cheak youtube on how to properly tap a hole. Aluminum is very easy so you have that going for you. Just take is slow and if you have it a 3-1 oil would not hurt. Of course you'll need to take the mag completely apart and clean it afterward. I put mine center of the semi-circle of the magwell on the left side of the mag. Looks good too, and it does not interfer with the folding of the stock.

Good luck and let us know how the the air rig goes,
mateba
 

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mateba said:
Don't go cheap on your air rig. This is your primary air rig and you don't need a carbonfiber wraped tank. Go buy a used one in person at a paintball park. BUT CHECK THE HYDRO DATE!, no one fills an out of date tank. Look specifically for a low output or 450PSI output tank if they have it. The links below are great sorces from guys that rely on their rigs. I would just buy one if I were you unless you have some of the parts already.
You might want to try placing your tank in a camlebak or a hydrant pouch off of country comm. I have tried many things buy since you are only running a bolt action rifle try 13ci 3000psi tanks. They are very slim and should be very easy to hide.
Ok let me start here, paintball tanks are comprised of to types. Solid steal, and steal core wrapped in carbon fiber or a different carbon wrap. They would never use fiberglass, i say get a carbon wrapped for the reason of they last longer(my uncle has one from 1995 that they still fill) and they are lighter the solid steal tanks.

secondly, he does not need a low output or 450psi output(standard on alot on tanks). That is what the regulator is for, also some food for thought. the first number is the internal cubic inches of the tank, which means how much your tank can hold. the second number is the pressure at which your tank can holds the air. so a 13ci 3000psi tank does not hold alot of air you have to consider a couple different things even though it is hpa it is effected by the weather, not in performance but rather air loss. all the tanks i have are 68ci 4500psi or higher(the biggest is 120ci 5000psi) and with all of them, i mean all tanks in the world. After they are filled you will lose 500psi within the first hour of filling then the air will settle so you arent really getting a 3000psi tank its more like a 2500psi not only that at 13ci that would be about 10 to 15% of your air gone.

IN NO WAY WAS THIS MENT TO INSULT YOU IN ANY WAY
Im not saying you dont know what you are taking about, you are coming from a different angle. I say all this from 6 years of paintball experience(the only thing they use is hpa tanks), you make suggestions from your experience. I dont want to make foes in a form i just joined, that why i came here in the first place, alot of other forums have to meny 15 year olds who think they know everything.

If you wish to rebuttal pm me lets keep fighting off the forum
 

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I can see where you both are coming from...

The double reg makes the rifle alot more consistent. And you have that extra safety in the system as well.

He is hooking it up to a single shot rifle. A 13ci tank will last a long time. I have one on an air rifle that I shoot.... with a full load of air I am able to get close to 110 shots before I need to refill her. And this is shooting a pellet that is 16 grains at 800 fps, consistently.

Meteba does know his stuff ;) Having bought a really nice rifle from him, which I am pissed I sold :(, and having done a ton of classic airsoft stuffies, he knows his stuff.

There is a big difference between how much air a paintball gun will use as compared to an airsoft rifle. A paintball gun will use a lot more HPA than an airsoft rifle will.

You would be fine with a 13ci tank. If you empty that in a game.... then you probably need to find a different rifle ;) I usually go three days and only shoot maybe two mags in any of my rifles.

** I am sure Meteba wont be mad... Discussion is great for people, as you can see many side to one option. Just make sure that we don't sound to condescending and mean to people. We are all adults and have to keep the maturity high on here
That is why this forum is awesome!! **
 

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+1 karma to woogie. He gets me. I'm not offended. In my experience the closer the PSI settings are the better that is why we use two reg. If you can drop 400PSI off the bottles max PSI or even lower with a ninja tank, even better. I have a 98ci 4500PSI tank and it can be a pain to field. 13ci for just a bolt action would be my preference. He will only need 110PSI per shot but I'm not sure about the volume.
 
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