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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Remove all stock screws and pull stock apart
18540

Fill with foam to reduce sound and make feel less cheap.
(I used Calmflex F2 and various scrubber pads)
18541

Put back together without losing a screw like I did
18542

Fill with more foam
18543

Remove trigger and barrel/hop chamber
18544

Disassemble trigger
There's a hidden screw behind the safety, so pull the safety back
18545
18546

Polish here and here on the trigger and main sear.
This will reduce trigger pull weight and improve longevity
18547

Polish on the front and back of the piston sear too.
This also helps with trigger pull weight and longevity.
18548

Add better grease and re assemble.
Grease reduces friction, improving trigger pull, bolt pull, and longevity.
18549


Wrap a layer of Scotch tape and a layer of aluminum tape on this part of your barrel.
This will center it in your receiver better.
You also need to poke out that hole.
This improves accuracy/range, sound, and stability
18562

Cut a piece of aluminum can and put it in the receiver to make an ejection port cover like so.
This improves sound and keeps out sand, dust, dirt, and everything bad
18565

18561

Make a cylinder guide sleeve like so.
You want it to be a sliding fit on your cylinder, and a tight fit in your outer barrel.
I used a notebook cover and some tape, but a soda bottle or Delrin tube would be ideal.
This improves bolt pull, sound, and longevity
18564

Make a barrel spacer out of painters tape and install the hop chamber, barrel, and cylinder guide sleeve.
This improves sound, accuracy/effective range, and rigidity
18566

18567

Wrap electrical tape on both ends of your spring.
This improves sound
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Put trigger back on receiver
18550

Polish the inner barrel with metal polish and clean until clean.
This improves accuracy/range as well as possible FPS.
18551

Crown the end of the barrel
(I used a knife and sandpaper)
Improves accuracy/range
18552
18553

Sand hop chamber face flat.
Improves nozzle seal
18554

18555

File and sand where you see this brass residue.
Improves bolt pull and push as well as not making metal dust
18556
18557

Apply a band of super glue around the bucking and let dry completely.
Improves air seal/FPS a lot
18558

Shim hop arm with aluminum tape or similar and glue a piece of rubber between the two prongs
(I used 4 layers to get the right thickness)
This will prevent you from having the weaker half of your hop adjustment, but that doesn't really matter unless you like firing .20g BBs.
This improves accuracy/range a ton.
18559
 

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If it's ok to ask, is there any chance I could get a quick run down on what each stage will achieve? foam inserts, sanding, barrel crown etc? I have one arriving next week.
 

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If it's ok to ask, is there any chance I could get a quick run down on what each stage will achieve? foam inserts, sanding, barrel crown etc? I have one arriving next week.
Return it.
They are not good guns.
Get an Action Army T11 instead.
It will be so much better.
 

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Black Dog's Notes on this:

I would like to make a couple of additions to it, in this post, I will be talking about parts compatibility from the VSR10 and the modifications needed for them to fit, as well as what one can do with the stock parts to improve performance.
Most of this info is sourced from various youtubers who I will link at the bottom of this post as well as @T4nkcommander on this forum.

The Trigger:
One can't do much to this. The one upgrade part that does fit is the 2nd 45 degree sear from the VSR10.
Other than that, you will either have to manufacture your own components or just do what @SiliconeSword sword did and polish up your stock sears and buy a new gun when they break.

Cylinder:
Not a lot that one can do about the actual cylinder. Any cylinders that one might find for an 'asg m40a3' are for the proline version.

Cylinder Internals:
APS2 internals fit.
Hopup Rubber:
VSR10 hopup rubbers do fit, however, as @T4nkcommander informed me, the the bucking slot is on the opposite side of the chamber. You will have to cut off the ridge on the side of VSR10 buckings for them to work.
The stock barrel is bridged so ML buckings don't work. Either remove the bridge or use a different bucking like a Madbull, 9ball or Unicorn.
Rhop and Flathop also work.

Barrels:
VSR10 barrels fit.
Lambda, Maple Leaf and Lonex recommended (by me).
Add barrel spacers made of masking tape or something else (hockey pucks like @Zero Roaster maybe?)

Hopup Unit:
Action Army hopup unit (the only one that you should bother changing the stock one to) works, however, mag mod is required.

Mag mod:
13:43 in this video:
(1) M40A3 Sportline Full Upgrade How To | SaltyOldGamer Airsoft Guide - YouTube

Video Links:

Also, if mods could please move this post to below the last post @SiliconeSword made in his upgrade guide, that would be brilliant. Thank you in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright, I've reached my 20mb limit, so just text from now on

Wrap solder and electrical tape on your piston

Wrap electrical tape on both ends of your spring

Put lots of teflon tape on your cylinder head

Put teflon tape on the bolt handle shaft until your bolt handle is snug

Put everything back together and use it


After all of this, I gained .09J, ability to hop heavier BBs, much better accuracy/effective range, much better sound, and a dope paint job, so I'd definitely recommend do this if you own one of these.
 

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Alright, I've reached my 20mb limit, so just text from now on

After all of this, I gained .09J, ability to hop heavier BBs, much better accuracy/effective range, much better sound, and a dope paint job, so I'd definitely recommend do this if you own one of these.
What range you getting now (and what bbs?) Stock, my rifle would shoot both .36g and .40g bbs quite accurately out to 240ft, whereupon they'd drop like a rock - both full hop.

I put the upgrade spring into it which seemed to give me an extra 40ft, but then also put a Mr. Hop bucking into it. I ended up cutting up too much of the barrel, and thus left a big hole in front of the bucking, which I patched with teflon tape. This, coupled with the horrible hackjob on the bucking left me surprised it worked at all - that said, I'm now launching .46g bbs to about 250ft, whereupon they drop like a rock. I'm convinced a barrel and new (unmolested) bucking will have the gun shooting like a laser out to 300ft. Gonna take the gun apart in the meantime and see if I can fix the airseal, as that seems to be my problem.

Regarding sears - this sear will fit, but the sear housing unfortunately will not. My youtube playlist for helpful videos regarding the gun: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbBcQaDdqeQX4dqnZ4hkxbJQasePuNzB-

I plan to do a proper review on the gun, but overall for $80 it is a great buy. Most of the cost goes to performance, but for an entry level sniper that's exactly what you want.
 

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Mine is arriving tomorrow. Definitely going to do the sanding, grease, foam inserts. I've never worked on an airsoft gun before though so I don't know if I will attempt all of this just yet.
 

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Mine is arriving tomorrow. Definitely going to do the sanding, grease, foam inserts. I've never worked on an airsoft gun before though so I don't know if I will attempt all of this just yet.
Get yourself a more powerful spring and put it in, then see how you like it. That'll get you some familiarity with the takedown and make a major upgrade to the guns performance with minimal effort. I've seen several people argue that a good spring is all this gun needs performance wise. I think the stock hop up is pretty weak, but a more powerful spring really will make the gun sing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I put in some BLS .36g and got a max range of maybe 65m, at 1.10J.
Here's a VIDEO of me recording through the scope using the before mentioned power and BBs.
The range is 60m exactly, with a decline of 6m, and the target is a 320mm steel plate.

I will be doing more air seal mods and putting in an R-hop to hopefully gain better accuracy, power, and range, but even then I would still not get this rifle as it sort of sucks.
 

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Yeah I ordered an SSG69 spring, as that was the one recommended with it. So my plan is to fit that, do a little internal work like the foam filling, and see how it runs. A friend has let me borrow a chrono to test it.
 

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I put in some BLS .36g and got a max range of maybe 65m, at 1.10J.
Here's a VIDEO of me recording through the scope using the before mentioned power and BBs.
The range is 60m exactly, with a decline of 6m, and the target is a 320mm steel plate.

I will be doing more air seal mods and putting in an R-hop to hopefully gain better accuracy, power, and range, but even then I would still not get this rifle as it sort of sucks.
That's shockingly worse than my STOCK rifle. Did you get the green ASG? I've heard that one is a far cry from the black models, tho why that is I haven't a clue.

I was getting close to 2J out of the box with the standard spring, and 250ft with .4g BBs. Granted, mine is a [exact] clone of the ASG, but it shouldn't matter.
 

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So I tried to remove the trigger box and met some resistance. I unscrewed the four small screws, two at each end, and something else was holding it in place. I wanted to check before just giving it a good tug that there wasn't something else holding it in place.

Second, you mentioned electrical tape on the spring ends, is that flat over the 'opening' as it were, like an end cap, or around the ends to make them a bit thicker?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I bought the black version.

It definitely lost power over time, but I just finished putting in an R-hop and doing lots of air seal stuff to the bucking and I'm up to 1.69J, way better than 1.10J.
The cylinder air seal is good, but the hop chamber and bucking need even more super glue that I thought, and I had to use RTV glue to glue the bucking to the barrel for a somewhat decent seal.
 

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