[renfrey]

So I have been having a lot of fun with my ASG AW.308 (L96 clone). Especially with upgrading and modding it!

However, I have come accross a major issue, and although I have a few ideas on how to solve it, none are very simple, and I'm hoping that maybe someone else might have some other ideas that I can look at.

At a glance, here is what I have changed so far: 6.03mm tightbore barrell, upgraded spring (can't remember the brand), spring guide and piston (now aluminium). Outside of that, I have done many of the basic DIY upgrades (cleaning, removing burrs, sealing the bucking, stablizing the barrell, and I have even packed the body with this rubbery stuff that is used for pond liners (to balance, give a more solid feel, and deaden the noise).

Keep in mind that I am fully aware that I am working with a fairly inexpensive clone, and the build quality may not be as good as others, but where there is a will, there is a way!

The problem I am having:
Everything was working great, until recently. When I pull the bolt back, it goes smoothly and the sear catches without issue. When I push it back in, different story. Sometimes it starts fine, but as it gets closer, it gets REALLY hard to put back in, sometimes it simply wont. The really scary part, is that you can feel metal on metal scraping.

I've pulled the bolt & cylinder, and the cylinder does show signs of scraping, but not too major. Looking in the cylinder/bolt guide, you can clearly see that it is cast, as there is pitting and some bumps here and there. So I filled all that I could feel, down. Even the cylinder had a small round bit sticking out slightly (near the bolt).

Putting the calipers on the cylinder, and I see that it is not perfectly round. It is very slightly oval. very slightly.

The nozzle does not seem to line up perfectly with the hop chamber, and sometimes won't go in, other times it scrapes in, and has marred up the nozzle. I put a chamfer (beveled) on the edges of the hole in the hop, for the nozzle, which helped, but didn't stop the problem.

I also noticed that there is only a single nylon ring guide in the cylinder/bolt guide (closer to the front), and none in the rear. So when you pull the bolt all the way back, you can move the bolt/cylinder a little, and nothing is there to keep it aligned perfectly straight.

I am pretty sure that my cylinder is done, as is the nozzle. I also want to upgrade to a PDI hop-up, but not until I can fix this problem.

I have thoughts of somehow putting another nylon ring at the back, near the bolt, to align the cylinder as you pull it and push it back in, but that means grinding out a seat for it, which could be difficult.

Any Ideas?


I will try and put some pics up, I just need to figure out where I can put my pics on the web, so I can link them here.

 

[MiqaFox]

Another guide-ring would probably help some. Oval cylinder doesn't sound too good.

But the biggest issue is probably the sear. Mine had a 45-degree trigger, you have it too?
A 45-degree trigger will always have a heavy bolt-push, especially if you upgrade to a stronger spring.

 

[renfrey]

Interesting. I never thought of looking at the trigger. Now that you mention it, i did notice that the new piston is scraped up pretty good around the last ring, that the sear goes over.

When you say 45degree, is that the cut angle on the tip of the sear, or the angle that the sear sits at?

Maybe I should just look at a better trigger assembly all together, as it is still stock, and not the greatest build quality IMHO. At least it does contain some metal parts.

 

[MiqaFox]

PDI trigger for TM VSR-10

This explains the issue pretty well, even though their English isn't great.

 

[renfrey]

Ok, that actually makes a LOT of sense!

I beleive it actually explains a couple of my problems. I've attached some pictures, but my phone doesn't take the greatest photo's, so it may be a little difficult to see. With the exception of the broken peice!

When I pulled the cylinder out, this time I noticed that the trigger sear/set pin/sear 1 (whatever u want to call it), was broken. This also reminded me that ever since I upgraded the piston/spring, I was no longer able to push the sear/pin in all the way. Mine has a raised section on it, and that was preventing it from going all the way in, so all the pressure of the spring was placed on the 1/4" end of the pin/sear. Which explains why it broke (and that it is cheap and cast).

I put the pin/sear in the cylinder and forced the spring guide forward a bit, so I could see what was going on when I would normally pull the bolt back. The pin/sear was getting forced against the metal edge of the slotted guide opening in the cylinder, and just grinding/scraping badly.

On to the un-round cylinder.....after reading that page, I can totally see that it could very well be the reason why my cylinder is no longer round. The piston sear basically forces the piston up and in contact with the top cylinder wall. Combine that with the high force applied from the spring, a cylinder that may not be strong enough, and I can see how over time that upward force would eventually "stretch" (kinda) the cylinder. That would explain the very slight oval shape that I was refering to, however, I am now going to assume that it is not actually oval, it is probably stretched on the top side.

The other picture is just showing the cylinder guide/receiver assembly, and the different levels that I started to file down.

Now on to the fun part......figuring a way to fix my problem, without spending an obscene amount of $$$!

 

[MiqaFox]

Well, you're definitely gonna need a new set-pin/spring guide-stopper.

Other than that I would try to reshape the cylinder to it's original form, re-lube and put back together. If that still won't satisfy you, the you probably have to start spending the $$$.

 

[LUCAN2004]

.308 sniper rifle

I was just given one of these due to the fact that the trigger assembly was broken and some of the shell screws were missing. I'm looking for a place to buy replacement parts or mod parts. Thank you.

 

[DOS]

So I have been having a lot of fun with my ASG AW.308 (L96 clone). Especially with upgrading and modding it!

However, I have come accross a major issue, and although I have a few ideas on how to solve it, none are very simple, and I'm hoping that maybe someone else might have some other ideas that I can look at.

At a glance, here is what I have changed so far: 6.03mm tightbore barrell, upgraded spring (can't remember the brand), spring guide and piston (now aluminium). Outside of that, I have done many of the basic DIY upgrades (cleaning, removing burrs, sealing the bucking, stablizing the barrell, and I have even packed the body with this rubbery stuff that is used for pond liners (to balance, give a more solid feel, and deaden the noise).

Keep in mind that I am fully aware that I am working with a fairly inexpensive clone, and the build quality may not be as good as others, but where there is a will, there is a way!

The problem I am having:
Everything was working great, until recently. When I pull the bolt back, it goes smoothly and the sear catches without issue. When I push it back in, different story. Sometimes it starts fine, but as it gets closer, it gets REALLY hard to put back in, sometimes it simply wont. The really scary part, is that you can feel metal on metal scraping.

I've pulled the bolt & cylinder, and the cylinder does show signs of scraping, but not too major. Looking in the cylinder/bolt guide, you can clearly see that it is cast, as there is pitting and some bumps here and there. So I filled all that I could feel, down. Even the cylinder had a small round bit sticking out slightly (near the bolt).

Putting the calipers on the cylinder, and I see that it is not perfectly round. It is very slightly oval. very slightly.

The nozzle does not seem to line up perfectly with the hop chamber, and sometimes won't go in, other times it scrapes in, and has marred up the nozzle. I put a chamfer (beveled) on the edges of the hole in the hop, for the nozzle, which helped, but didn't stop the problem.

I also noticed that there is only a single nylon ring guide in the cylinder/bolt guide (closer to the front), and none in the rear. So when you pull the bolt all the way back, you can move the bolt/cylinder a little, and nothing is there to keep it aligned perfectly straight.

I am pretty sure that my cylinder is done, as is the nozzle. I also want to upgrade to a PDI hop-up, but not until I can fix this problem.

I have thoughts of somehow putting another nylon ring at the back, near the bolt, to align the cylinder as you pull it and push it back in, but that means grinding out a seat for it, which could be difficult.

Any Ideas?

I will try and put some pics up, I just need to figure out where I can put my pics on the web, so I can link them here.

Can you make a list of your upgrades please?