[Unforgiving Apple]

Alright so I'm back :bird: (most of you are like )

So on the left side of my gun (because I am right handed) I have a note card. On this note card I have a table for sighting corrections and millings. I kinda stole this idea from a tv show (Top Sniper and it is on Netflix)

I have never heard of millings in the airsoft world. So I'll explain, Milling is how far apart the mill dots are at a given range. If I know that at 200 feet my mills are 6 inches apart I can use that to make the corrections to my scope.

Back to the table. I have my gun sighted to a base 110 feet (due to the closer engagements at my field, I know a lot of you guys sight for 150ish feet) and I have the millings for 110 feet. Then on 125 feet I have the correct scope adjustments from 110 feet and the millings. Sorry I don't have pictures. but this is the general idea.

110 feet___ 1 mill = 3 inches
125 feet 15 Up 5 Right 1 mill = 4 inches
140 feet 30 up 5 right 1 mill = 5 inches.
If i am sighting for 140 feet I do NOT take 15+30 to come up with 45. I adjust it 30 from 110 feet.
then I would do 155 feet and so on. I think you guys should get the General idea of this.

 

[SuperiorArsenal]

That's a great idea. I've done something similar, though I've never thought of putting it right on the gun itself. I determined the mils for 100ft, 125ft, 150ft, and 175ft (about the max I can do under ideal conditions with my stock MB03), and the appropriate adjustments for each range (125ft is my zero). My illuminated scope has a nice little "graph" of sorts that helps with windage, though I've never tried actually adding windage corrections in (partly because I don't have any ways to accurately measure it).

Props for putting it on the gun though. I'll have to do that.

Also, I had a friend stand out at various ranges, and I compared mils relative to body size. If you can get a rough idea of where the mils "fall" on a body at various ranges, and burn it into your memory, range estimation becomes nearly automatic.

 

[Dishmechanic]

Natural wind indicators to ponder grass sways at appox. 2-3 MPH and tree leaves at 5-8. at 10+ I could be wrong but hitting someone with a bb is kinda "eh". Another thing, your mil rangefinding only works on the magnification you zero your rifle at, your zero will also shift when you change your magnification.

 

[lulukchoo23]

Another thing to add is about variable magnification scopes. The mil dots change "distances" as you change magnification.

I'm not sure if this is correct, but I think that mil-dot distances change by a function to however much you change your magnification by, perhaps?

For example, let's just say hypothetically you are at a 4x power level looking at a target 150 feet away, and your mil-dots are, let's say, 6 inches apart downrange.

If you go up to 8x power, the mil-dots would be 1 foot apart? Is that correct? Twice the magnification, twice the distance? Then, it would be a function:

Original Mil-Dot Distance * (Final Magnification / Initial Magnification) = New Mil-Dot Distance.

Is this right? Or am I completely wrong?

 

[Dishmechanic]

You basically reiterated what I just said, albiet in more detail. But no I dont think it quit works that way. literally to use Mil-dots the way they are designed you need a slide ruler if your constantly changing your magnification. . It would be irrelavent in anycase as like I said your Point of Impact changes when you change your magnification.

 

[Unforgiving Apple]

I would choose a mangnification (either the most or least) for the milling. Lukluk I didn't think of that given as I have a 4x non variable scope but it would be 3 inches with a variable 8x. You did eveything backwards

 

[Bushmaster Recon]

In that case, if i want to hit 40ish meters i adjust 1 and a half mils?

 

[Unforgiving Apple]

No you would turn your adjustment knob on your scope so many clicks. I guess you could write in how many mills up or down it is too.

 

[Dishmechanic]

You really dont want to play with your adjustment knobs too much, they tend not to go back to were you want them, and you will have to re-zero the scope.

 

[Unforgiving Apple]

How don't they go back?

 

[Bushmaster Recon]

What he means is that it never seems to go back to where you had the zero perfect. Though there is bo reason why it shouldnt go back, I see where he's coming from.

 

[Unforgiving Apple]

My zero is never perfect

 

[Dishmechanic]

Its how they are built, Unless your using a high end scope like a Nightforce, Vortex, Leupold, Swarovski etc, the repeatability is iffy at best. The turrets put spring tension in varying amounts on a piece called the erector tube, the part were most of the lenses are held. The tension in turn tweaks the tube in one direction or the other in minute amounts giving you your elevation, depression, and windage.

Among other things with the lesser quility scopes the springs arnt manufactured to tight tolerances and so they exert differing amounts of force each time you adjust them, in some cases they just "squish" and dont move when you adjust. The erector tube system, is very fragile, and is often the man cause of failure in a scope. Ive seen some scope manufactures, namely Simmons off the top of my head, make use of a gimble to increase endurance and sensitivity. Also as with your BASR piston springs they weaken over time with the constant tension, and you get whats called a shifting zero, every time you shoot your zero shifts.