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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I haven't done anything to the guts of this weapon (only the barrel and hop up) but when I push the bold forward, its rough. Almost like something is wedged in between it and the stock, there's just alot of resistance. The bolt pull, however is fine. This problem kind of just came about suddenly. Any ideas on what this might be and how I could fix it?
 

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BOLT GLIDE RINGS. Yes cap rage is necessary. The glide rings are a little plastic rings that go around the cylinder. If you lose them. Your bolt pull will be weird and awkward or in your case hard. Remember to lube the cylinder too.
 

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Cap rage is never needed ;)


If you can't find those rings, just go to a hardware store and buy some o-rings that are close to the propper size. Slide them over your cylinder and you are good to go. Just make sure that you cut the one for the rear.
 

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As woogie said, you need #14 O rings to replace your nylon bushings.

You will, however, probably find the reason for your difficult bolt push is due to the sears pushing the back of the piston up against the cylinder tube, which is why by fitting a zero trigger group gorem cured his problem, as it holds the piston back at 90 degrees rather than 45 like the stock trigger group.
 

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When you take the barrel out of the reciever.... there should be a white ring in there. As well as one in the back, just forward of the bolt handle inside the reciever. If you take that back piece off you will find it.

These are the "rings" that we are talking about. Though I have found that some o-rings work much better, and last quite some time longer in my eyes. That and they don't fall out of the rifle when you take off the outer barrel.
 

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BTW this is really random but somewhat on topic. Scarecrow. I have a Jg bar 10 that I am selling for 70 dollars. I just screwed up the hop up. You can loot it for all of it parts. The gun shoots 480 fps and is easily shooting 250 feet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright, its been a while.

So I am about to take this puppy apart (finally) to check it out, but there was one thing I want to add. I put some silicone spray on the external cylinder and It improved the bolt push, but only for a short time. What exactly am I looking for?

Sears pressing up against the cylinder? And if they were, what could be done about that essentially?
 

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Have you read the thread?

I would check the piston to ensure it's not doing what is shown above.

I would check to see if the guide rings are in tact.

I would apply some white lithium grease to the entire unit, regreasing, and cleaning until its shiny and "spotless".

I would check to see if the spring guide is "loose". Sometimes the laylax spring guides come apart. Same for the PDI's.

If none of that works, let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry about that. This is my first time to take it down outside of the barrel/hopup unit and I'm not sure exactly what all the parts are and what they do, so a little bit of this goes over my head.

Sears- Not pressing up against the cylinder as far as I could tell, there isn't any wear.
Guide rings- intact however it seems to be a loose fit on the piston but on the cylinder cap it's fine.
Spring guide- seems fine and intact as far as I could tell. It's still on one piece.

The cylinder's parts, however, have sort of a chalky black grease on them. Does that need to come off? I feel like that's my problem. When I took it down it was on the lip of the second sear too. And because it's sort of chalky, toomanybbs' theory begins to make sense as well.

And thanks for helping me thus far, I really don't entirely know what I'm doing in there.
 

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The front guide ring will be loose. Or at least that is how mine is. It is tightened into place when you screw the outer barrel into the receiver.

As for the black chalky grease...

Clean her up good with some paper towels and perhaps add some white lithium grease so that the black grease comes off more easily.

Once you have removed all of the black grease, go ahead and apply some white lithium grease again, this time lathering it up and making sure its smooth. Take a paper towel and wipe off the access grease. Now your cylinder unit, as well as o-rings should be smooth and somewhat shiny. Stick everything back in and see how things go. Let us know, as there are many other possibilities as well.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lithium grease doesn't wear down on the plastic parts does it? The internals of the cylinder are still stock.

EDIT: My question still stands, however it is too late to do anything about if it will because I am done. The bolt is smooth as far as the last 25 times I've tried it.

Thanks so much again fuzzywolly, you really helped me out with this.
 

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WHITE lithium grease is the stuff you should use. I tested it on some rubber o-rings and no damage was done at all over a good 6 month span. In addition, it shows no signs of wearing down the internals inside my rifles.

Glad the bolt pull is smooth again. One of the things with stock guns or even upgraded ones is that when they get dirty with grease, it sometimes becomes very chalky and can cause problems with smoothness.

Let us know if any other problems come up!

Fuzz
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Unfortunately, one has.

My rifle is now slam firing, every couple of shots or so will be fine, then the next ten will slam fire. Would that have anything to do with the way I put it back together? I thought I did a pretty god job of that...
 

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Also check your trigger sear isn't sticking, down mainly, and is central. Check the spring guide back plate isn't coming loose, and finaly, I know it sounds obvious but you'd be suprised how many car owners think their broken down when all they are is out of gas..... Are you using proper bolt pull procedure? ;)
 
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