Well, I finally started putting together my Bar-10. I got the airsoft gi/planter enterprise parts, not due to cost, but due to the fact that everything else was out of stock. I got the spring(170 spring), the piston, spring guide, and new sears. I know your not suppose to go over the 150spring without the zerotrigger/piston combo, but dad didn't think it would hurt anything, so he ordered 2 of them, considering he is building the same weapon as well. I Tefloned the cylinder head. I also got my dad to some of the parts to work and re-machine them. I got all of the burrs off of the rifle parts so nothing catches. I also cut some out of my cylinder and smoothed it out, like in Noobie's guide. Firing .20's stock, after assembly was 400. After the cutting and modding, it was 450. Now, with the parts installed, it is shooting 600 with .20's. I have .25's and .30's, and it actually shoots the .25's better. I'm going to have to go down a spring size to make it field legal for louisiana though. It defiantly shoots hard enough, just have a few problems. What should I do for accuracy? The rifle itself isn't consistent at all. Would a new hop-up bucking be all I needed? Or should I replace the hop-up completely? Would a tight-bore barrel really help that much? And is there anything else I need to upgrade? Would the Teflon cylinder/damper head be worth it? I'm also having a problem with the bolt pull. Sometimes when i pull the bolt back, and push it back forward, it explodes all my bb's from my magazine into my barrel. Idk if its the mag release button causing it or what, but it makes it skirmishible due to the fact that i can randomly lose my whole mag. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks again.
Bar-10 Questions
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The mag problem, I really don't know what the problem is.
Teflon cylinder- It will make the bolt bull easier
Damper head or kit- It will make your rifle a little bit more quiet
Now for accuracy- first step is a tightbore, yes it will make a difference, get a nice 6.01, PDI, DBC, I don't know how well the new GI ones work yet, but I'd like to see. Get a new bucking, and one of the most important things, with such a high FPS rating you are going to need heavier bb's, I shoot .36s out of my rifle and it only shoots 500fps with a .2. You may want to consider .36, .4, or maybe even .43 gram bbs.
-Yankee
Teflon cylinder- It will make the bolt bull easier
Damper head or kit- It will make your rifle a little bit more quiet
Now for accuracy- first step is a tightbore, yes it will make a difference, get a nice 6.01, PDI, DBC, I don't know how well the new GI ones work yet, but I'd like to see. Get a new bucking, and one of the most important things, with such a high FPS rating you are going to need heavier bb's, I shoot .36s out of my rifle and it only shoots 500fps with a .2. You may want to consider .36, .4, or maybe even .43 gram bbs.
-Yankee
The hop up unit compensates for that, by adding backspin to the bb, with the power of the air behind it giving it good backspin the bb has a long flight path. The more hop up the bigger the backspin, hence when you over adjust a hop up the bb goes into the stratosphere. Your range may drop, but the range you'll have will be much more accurate then the range you have now. Accurate range and capable range are two different creatures.
-Yankee
-Yankee
Well, the thing about my hop-up, is when I use it at all, it flings bb's straight up, no matter if i turn it all the way up, or just a click. Idk if my hop-up is faulty, or its just the fact that the heavier bb would even out the hop-up?
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The heavier ammo will need more hop up to cause the same ammount of spin.
Have you looked at the hop up arm? It could be just a little long.
If that is the case you can adjust it so that it will work better for you. Just don't do it to much or you can really mess up the arm.
Have you looked at the hop up arm? It could be just a little long.
If that is the case you can adjust it so that it will work better for you. Just don't do it to much or you can really mess up the arm.
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I'll just add a couple of things here
Don't worry about a TBB.
What you've been told/read about TBBs is mostly only relavent over the first 50 foot of a shot, after that how tight your barrel was has got fek all to do with it, it all now rests on how heavy your ammo is,
The trouble is what most hear/read about TBBs is either myth or legend that has been banded about the forums until it has become law, and this sadly is all bollox of the highest order, a case in point....
I just signed up to ASR as some guy on the forums over here was asking how a TK twist barrel actualy worked, he was linked to a thread on ASR that supposedly showed how it worked...... Oh, how I laughed when I read it! The kid who posted it hadn't even understood the basic principale of it, but was happily doing a full write up on it and the principles behind it, and then it was being linked to from all over the world! It realy doesn't take long for misguided musings to become airsoft law
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Along side this theres the dross that a longer barrel will increase your accuracy, fact is a barrel only needs to be between 300 and 450mm long to achieve the most accuracy after that its all pointless.
I could go on but then it would turn into a rant
Make sure you polish the original one you have for now and then maybe upgrade to a quality 6.05 or 6.08 later on
Heavy ammo carries more kinetic energy, that is why they travel just as far as, or in some cases upto .28s, farther than a .2.
Your hop issue is more likely to be tha fact that your using .2s to test it, I use .28s minimum in mine and its only shooting at 350 fps (when you buy a VSR brand new it comes with .25s in the box and that shoots at only just above 300)
Don't worry about a TBB.
What you've been told/read about TBBs is mostly only relavent over the first 50 foot of a shot, after that how tight your barrel was has got fek all to do with it, it all now rests on how heavy your ammo is,
The trouble is what most hear/read about TBBs is either myth or legend that has been banded about the forums until it has become law, and this sadly is all bollox of the highest order, a case in point....
I just signed up to ASR as some guy on the forums over here was asking how a TK twist barrel actualy worked, he was linked to a thread on ASR that supposedly showed how it worked...... Oh, how I laughed when I read it! The kid who posted it hadn't even understood the basic principale of it, but was happily doing a full write up on it and the principles behind it, and then it was being linked to from all over the world! It realy doesn't take long for misguided musings to become airsoft law
" title="" border="0"/>Along side this theres the dross that a longer barrel will increase your accuracy, fact is a barrel only needs to be between 300 and 450mm long to achieve the most accuracy after that its all pointless.
I could go on but then it would turn into a rant
Make sure you polish the original one you have for now and then maybe upgrade to a quality 6.05 or 6.08 later on
Heavy ammo carries more kinetic energy, that is why they travel just as far as, or in some cases upto .28s, farther than a .2.
Your hop issue is more likely to be tha fact that your using .2s to test it, I use .28s minimum in mine and its only shooting at 350 fps (when you buy a VSR brand new it comes with .25s in the box and that shoots at only just above 300)
Just to help you with the problem that it squirts all the bbs in the barrel..
Drill a very small port (2-3mm) in the middle of the black block in between the hop-up rubber and the cylinder head, the part what moves up and down to make sure that the gun loads only one bb to the chamber. this also helps to the problem when the gun empties the mag into the cylinder well. (notice: There might already be a small port there already.. but i found it helping alot by making it 1-2mm bigger.)
The purpose of the port is to allow the part to keep only one bb quided in place by the small port, when the first bb sets to the port, it sort of locks in place, that the next bb cant push it in to the chamber on its own. Also what would help is get a new hop rubber, or modifying your hop arms.
Drill a very small port (2-3mm) in the middle of the black block in between the hop-up rubber and the cylinder head, the part what moves up and down to make sure that the gun loads only one bb to the chamber. this also helps to the problem when the gun empties the mag into the cylinder well. (notice: There might already be a small port there already.. but i found it helping alot by making it 1-2mm bigger.)
The purpose of the port is to allow the part to keep only one bb quided in place by the small port, when the first bb sets to the port, it sort of locks in place, that the next bb cant push it in to the chamber on its own. Also what would help is get a new hop rubber, or modifying your hop arms.
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Yup ....
The issues with alot of the stock barrels is that they are not an even diameter all the way down. This even inner diameter is what will impart the best accuracy. The more consistant the inner diameter is the better the accuracy.
Then when you start to get into the larger... 6.05 and up in my book... There is a more even cushion of air to help the bb get to the top of the barrel if it drops down.
The issues with alot of the stock barrels is that they are not an even diameter all the way down. This even inner diameter is what will impart the best accuracy. The more consistant the inner diameter is the better the accuracy.
Then when you start to get into the larger... 6.05 and up in my book... There is a more even cushion of air to help the bb get to the top of the barrel if it drops down.
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What the fine young gentlemen above me have said is true, based on physics, fact and a hell of alot of testing.
What you will find is that most VSR users over here are swapping their PDI 6.01s for their 6.05 barrels, as the accuracy actualy increases due to what woogie made mention of in his above post.
What you will find is that most VSR users over here are swapping their PDI 6.01s for their 6.05 barrels, as the accuracy actualy increases due to what woogie made mention of in his above post.
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