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Hey guys, first of all I am new to this forum, so I apologize if there is already a thread related to this but I was unable to find one. I have been having issues with slam firing and the bolt just slamming forward on it's own. I have done some minor upgrades to it such as a new barrel. I have also done a few mods to it as well (TDC, Teflon tape mod), but that's besides the point here. I figured as soon as these issues appeared that it was the sears, so I naturally took the trigger box apart and inspected the sears and they appear to be fine. Thinking that was odd I put the rifle back together and bam, worked fine for a few days. Then one day when I got home from work I went to test out my new silencer I built for it and all of the sudden it started bolt slamming again, so once again, out comes the trigger box. This time I didn't bother looking at the sears since I already had and I hadn't used it enough for them to even be affected. I noticed something I hadn't before and that was that the front trigger box mounting screw that holds the trigger box to the bolt assembly, or the receiver screw if you will, was able to be inserted and removed from it's hole without a driver. Obviously the hole was stripped of it's threads. Now this is where it gets weird. When the trigger box isn't attached to the gun, the screw goes in just fine and sits up nicely to the bolt assembly no issue, but when the trigger box is attached, it just slides in and out of the hole. I am guessing this means that the first few threads of the hole are stripped and the deeper ones are still intact but I really dont know much about threads and screws, or nuts and bolts for that matter. My next upgrade was going to be the PDI V trigger, but without a way to mount it to the bolt assembly that would be pointless to buy at the moment, so I am trying to figure out a way to fix this stripped screw hole issue. Ive read a ton of stories where people have used JB weld to fix screw holes and re-thread them with a tap in low torque applications, and this is very very low torque indeed, so I may go that route and just pick up a tap set. However, if anyone has had this issue before and has a simple route that requires me to not go tapping new holes, the be my guest. I have searched for the stock bolt assembly online and I cant seem to find one, only the PDI one which would break the bank for me atm. If anyone has insight I would gladly accept it. Thanks!
 

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Put Teflon tape on the screw until it screws in. The Teflon tape basically thickens the screw so it will fit. Also make an introduction post! It's a forum rule.
 

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Or simply use a longer one. Just make sure it doesn't go through and hits the cylinder.

Alternatively you can drill it out one size further and tap the metal for a bigger screw. I believe stock is M3, there's plenty of space to drill and tap an M4 instead :tup:
 

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When the holes in my JG receiver started stripping, I did everything I could think of to maintain them: thread lock, teflon tape, retapping. Everything worked for a little while, but the fact is that the potmetal is just not strong enough to stand up to repeated (dis)assembly. For me it was the stock mounting threads that became totally useless; I had to ziptie the gun to the stock.

I eventually replaced the JG receiver with a PDI receiver. I know you say that would break the bank, but I believe it's pretty much the only way to get a solid receiver off-the-shelf.
 

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Nope, you could also use Helicoils/V-coils or similar alternative thread insert to semi-permanent fix it, without having to go up a threadsize.

HeliCoil
 

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The same thing has happened to me, but my dad had a really smart idea where if you put a solution called bondic, (a strong plastic which is hardened by a uv light) in the hole for the screw (don't completely fill the hole), you can then use the original screw to re tap the hole, and then the thread is fixed. This solution is far easier in my opinion then using a heli coil, but to be honest I have never used one, so i wouldn't know, but it took a short amount of time. It has worked for a little over half a week, but im confident that it will work for longer than this, and if it strips, just re tap it, and also put the Teflon tape over the screws as well as it will make it harder for the screws to strip the threads. Amount of time it lasts may depend on how many times you take it apart.
 

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What I did was drill out the holes, and put larger hardware in and installed helicoils.

Considering that the receiver is normally made out of cast zinc, it is pretty soft.
 
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