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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To replace the deleted guide.

You should really polish your barrel after every skirmish regardless of how often you used the rifle, and you should also take time to polish the barrel in a new rifle, as you can never be sure of what nasties the manufacturer has left in there.

What you will need infront of you for a primary/service clean -

Your chosen barrel stripped from the rifle, with all hop parts removed.

1/ A cleaning rod long enough to travel the full length of the barrel being cleaned.
2/ Some lint free cloth cut into strips that fit through the end of the cleaning rod ( Iuse 'Jay' cloth)
3/ A variable or low speed drill
4/ Some low abrasive compound ( I use 'T'cut)
5/ Some Wax or Silicon base polish ( I use Auto Glym polish)
6/ Avice or clamp to hold the barrel firmly without squashing it

A picture for reference when you are wandering round Halfords/your dads garage looking for these items.....

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/vindicareassassin/Airsoft%20Weapons/1001.jpg

Once you have these items collected together you can start...

1/ Clamp the barrel firmly in the vice.

2/ Place a small amount of cutting compound on the tip of the swab in your cleaning rod, the amount will vary depending on the barrel length, but it should be enough to coat the inner of the barrel fully, and feed the rod in and out of the barrel to distribute the compound evenly.

3/ Now fit the rod into the drill, and on a low speed, feed the rod the full length of the barrel 2 or 3 times.

4/ Now replace the swab with aclean strip of cloth and repeat part 3.

5/ Repeat parts 3 and 4 a further 2 or 3 times or until the swab is coming out near clean, like this.....

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/vindicareassassin/Airsoft%20Weapons/1002.jpg

Now using a new set of cleaning swabs follow steps 1 through to 5 only this time using your chosen wax, and the job is done.

Make sure you clean all residue from the hop cut out and barrel ends with clean cloth, then you are free to re-assemble the barrel and hop and re-fit into your weapon.

From now on all you should get in the habit of doing is running a clean, dry swab down your barrel after every skirmish to keep it reasonably clean, and only doing the wax application process at every major service/overhaul.

VA
 

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If you just clean the barrel with a dry piece of paper towel, no silicon or anything, it won't damage the barrel will it? And also, is it necessary to disassemble the gun and run the rod through the back of the barrel as opposed to leaving it in the gun and just running it down the front end and back?
 

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If you use paper towel it will scratch the barrel. Use cotton cloth. Also, use rubbing alcohol and no lube whatsoever. Keep the barrel as dry as possible. Second, you should take the barrel out so as not to touch the bucking, as it would reduce accuracy and if something happened to the bucking, you're screwed. Third, this guide is to polish a barrel, not to clean it normally.
 

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Thought I should add this bit of info but if you wrap your barrel in cloth or anything like it, you can tighten the vise a little bit more and keep the vise from scratching the barrel.
 

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It doesn't matter if the vice scratches the outside of the inner barrel, the problem is the vice squishing it.
 

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There is a lot of talk on the forums as to why you shouldn't use silicon spray inside your barrel. so it leaves me scratching my head thinking it's not ok to leave silicon lube inside the barrel but it's ok to put a car wax in? And what can we expect from a good inner barrel polishing job? Better consistency? Higher FPS. What can we expect out of this mod?
 

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This mod will yield better accuracy/consistency. Higher FPS would come from a tightbore barrel.
I for one polished my stock CA M24 barrel and noticed a slight improvement. Enough to postpone a tightbore barrel purchase.
 

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Silicone oil will most likely drip into the bucking and screw up the backspin. I still wouldn't ever put wax down my barrel, but it is meant to not drip off so it won't contact the bucking. It has nothing to do with making it a tightbore or raising fps, it is means to reduce friction inside the barrel and keep the bb on a more consistent path. I can't say how well it does that job, because I've never tried it, but I have used brasso to polish my stock barrel with good success.
 

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Just did it testerday, inner very shinny.

just do with a little different, when I done polish, I reclean my inner by alcohol

Is it bad influence to my polish ?
 

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If you're not sure what the coating is your safest bet probably is to get some green rouge off Amazon or something (I think it's 10$. there are different sizes (it's like a big abrasive crayon)). I think the green buffing compond should do it, but there is also a white (I think it's white. they're color coded) that has a finer grit size. the green is normally 3 micron grit while the finer one is about 1.5 micron grit.

With the buffing compound, or rouge, or whatever you want to call it, just put it on a strip of cotton cloth and follow the steps in this guide. If you plan on LRBing though leave the barrel unwaxed so the barrel can grip the bb.

I use the green stuff as the stropping comund for my knives. Gets my x-acto knives (yes I resharpen them. I'm cheap) so I could even shave with them if I was so inclined.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Anybody have any ideas on how to polish a black python? It doesn't seem like Brasso would do anything, but ya never know.
I presume you mean the Madbull barrels??

They are teflon coated, so quite hard.

I just use my Autoglym polish, maybe just a little cutting compound first, just to take out the initial dirt, then polish the crap out of it using the polish, making sure to change your swab regularly :tup:
 

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Okay, thank you!
Sorry, I should've clarified MadBull's.

I'll use Brasso and move to AutoGlym. Is that available at Lowe's, or more so at an Automotive shop?
 

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Do you guys never used this "Sidol" for polish your barrel??
I've a PDI 6,01 made with Stainless steel...i usually clear my barrel with this type of polish ( is composed with "triammonium citrate", "ammonium" and "ammonia" )..did you think is a good choise or i've to buy others?
Thanks,Ace.
 

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