Joined
·
407 Posts
Better cushion and more silent vsr piston
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Joined
·
969 Posts
Look into the WASP or other pistons like it. Airbrake or a soft rubber cup are the two best ways to make it quieter.
I don't think your spring idea would work well due to the complexity and risk of it jamming things up.
I don't think your spring idea would work well due to the complexity and risk of it jamming things up.
Joined
·
1,384 Posts
The new EdGi SAP is fancy and quiet. High price tag like most EdGi parts though!
So I’ve never done this to any spring gun, but there is a mod (hammar mod I think it’s called, after the user here who created it) which involves using silicone caulk on the cylinder head. I have done it on a handful of AEGs and all of them hold up for years when done properly. It helps so much with the piston slamming on AEGs that it leaves sorbothane pads and other rubber pads in the dust. So look up hammar mod, or it may even be stickied in the appropriate section. Remember, I have not yet tried it on a bolt action, and have not heard of anyone who has, so try it at your own risk. I may also try it later!
Joined
·
30 Posts
Old school solution that works- cut a piece of mousepad (much denser than sorbothane) to the size of your cylinder head, cut the center hole, score up the cylinder head with sandpaper etc, super glue it on. Voila! no more piston slam. Silicone caulk will not stick to rubber rings or metal on the cylinder heads and WILL eventually end up in your hopup and barrel- really bad idea.
Tssniper01 - wrong on multiple points. I suggest reading some stickies before misleading people.
The Hammar Mod has been tried and proven on AEGs. This means one application and no fuss for more than the lifetime of some other parts at a much higher cycle rate than a BASR. It lasts for years if done properly. It seems to have improved upon the efficiency of the old sorbo mod at least in theory and from data taken from other industries which translates well to ours. Go read the thread for details. I went back and dug up the old stickied post my self and it turns out, since my hiatus of lurking here, people have done it on BASRs with similar results.
So OP, if you have access to some 100% silicone caulk and feel confident, go find the how-to thread and give it a shot. It's easy to do right and even easier to clean up and try again if you don't get it right. When I did my 4+ cylinder heads half a decade ago I didn't even use an electric drill, I just spun it in my fingers. So all you really need is the caulk and some saliva or whatever you want to use for lube, probably water. Hammars post explains it well. Don't swallow the adhesive! 😂
Hammar Mod thread: https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/#/topics/9062
The Hammar Mod has been tried and proven on AEGs. This means one application and no fuss for more than the lifetime of some other parts at a much higher cycle rate than a BASR. It lasts for years if done properly. It seems to have improved upon the efficiency of the old sorbo mod at least in theory and from data taken from other industries which translates well to ours. Go read the thread for details. I went back and dug up the old stickied post my self and it turns out, since my hiatus of lurking here, people have done it on BASRs with similar results.
So OP, if you have access to some 100% silicone caulk and feel confident, go find the how-to thread and give it a shot. It's easy to do right and even easier to clean up and try again if you don't get it right. When I did my 4+ cylinder heads half a decade ago I didn't even use an electric drill, I just spun it in my fingers. So all you really need is the caulk and some saliva or whatever you want to use for lube, probably water. Hammars post explains it well. Don't swallow the adhesive! 😂
Hammar Mod thread: https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/#/topics/9062
Is the Piece of a mousepad better then the laylax sorbopads? How thick should it be?
Do You know any other mods or ways to get the vsr more silent? Mine sounds like a gbb...
I already done the can mod and did put lots of foam into the stock and around the inner barrel.
Atm I am looking for a decent silencer (at about 15cm/6 inches length) and a more silent piston (than the scw piston).
Anybody tried the edgi sap piston and gated supressor?
Do You know any other mods or ways to get the vsr more silent? Mine sounds like a gbb...
I already done the can mod and did put lots of foam into the stock and around the inner barrel.
Atm I am looking for a decent silencer (at about 15cm/6 inches length) and a more silent piston (than the scw piston).
Anybody tried the edgi sap piston and gated supressor?
Joined
·
3,875 Posts
Honestly, probably about the same lol.
In my springer, I use 55° 4mm rubber that I punched out of a sheet, but anything will do really.
As for the rest of the noise, what barrel, spring, BB, and speed are you using?
If your barrel is too short or your BBs are too light your gun will be a bit loud.
A silencer will only do so much, but I suggest a 32-37mm outer diameter one, no more, no less, as I have found that diameter is about optimal for some strange reason.
For picking one out, just get the coolest looking one to you, and make the filling out of some open cell foam or some Scotch Brite.
For more silencing effect, use the smallest holes in the foam and the exit hole of the suppressor that you can,it makes a huge difference.
As for making the filling, I have tried punches to an extent, but nothing really beats a good pair of scissors and a couple hours to cut foam.
I like to have a sharpened aluminum tube such as a piece of arrow, and I like to put little notches in the sharp end with a knife, so that it can cut more like a saw and cuts very cleanly.
I then wrap painters tape on the tube about 2 inches up from the sharp part, and I make it so that it is a tight fit in the suppressor of choice.
I then line up the tube on top of my foam so it is perfectly level, and I twist away until I exit the other side of the foam.
Then, I trace around the tape with a marker onto the foam on both sides.
I then cut out the piece leaving about 4mm of waste around it, and I slowly and very carefully cut it off to line up with the traced circles until it is perfectly symmetrical.
I prefer 6.5 and 7mm holes, but I your case you should start off with at least 8.mm as you have never made a suppressor before.
Besides that, try to decrease the inner diameter of the exit hole on the muzzle of your suppressor, I used a lathe and made a hardened steel insert that shaves off extra air and sound, but you could probably use tape wrapped around a larger diameter drinking straw.
In my springer, I use 55° 4mm rubber that I punched out of a sheet, but anything will do really.
As for the rest of the noise, what barrel, spring, BB, and speed are you using?
If your barrel is too short or your BBs are too light your gun will be a bit loud.
A silencer will only do so much, but I suggest a 32-37mm outer diameter one, no more, no less, as I have found that diameter is about optimal for some strange reason.
For picking one out, just get the coolest looking one to you, and make the filling out of some open cell foam or some Scotch Brite.
For more silencing effect, use the smallest holes in the foam and the exit hole of the suppressor that you can,it makes a huge difference.
As for making the filling, I have tried punches to an extent, but nothing really beats a good pair of scissors and a couple hours to cut foam.
I like to have a sharpened aluminum tube such as a piece of arrow, and I like to put little notches in the sharp end with a knife, so that it can cut more like a saw and cuts very cleanly.
I then wrap painters tape on the tube about 2 inches up from the sharp part, and I make it so that it is a tight fit in the suppressor of choice.
I then line up the tube on top of my foam so it is perfectly level, and I twist away until I exit the other side of the foam.
Then, I trace around the tape with a marker onto the foam on both sides.
I then cut out the piece leaving about 4mm of waste around it, and I slowly and very carefully cut it off to line up with the traced circles until it is perfectly symmetrical.
I prefer 6.5 and 7mm holes, but I your case you should start off with at least 8.mm as you have never made a suppressor before.
Besides that, try to decrease the inner diameter of the exit hole on the muzzle of your suppressor, I used a lathe and made a hardened steel insert that shaves off extra air and sound, but you could probably use tape wrapped around a larger diameter drinking straw.
i posted my gun build in my introduction post
https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/25-new-member-introductions-tips/64493-new-member.html
https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/25-new-member-introductions-tips/64493-new-member.html
Joined
·
5,711 Posts
Mouse pad is not as good as sorbo. It will sound good and sometimes better when new but mouse pad will quickly compact and not expand back out. So in a short time, it will not be bouncy anymore. If using mouse pad in an AEG, this will effect the AOG. In a sniper it wont do any damage but it will just not last.
Joined
·
3,875 Posts
Try using a flat faced piston and put an oversized O-ring between that and the cylinder head.
I did this not too long ago and it worked surprisingly well, as there was zero slap sound that you get with something like a standard rubber pad
I did this not too long ago and it worked surprisingly well, as there was zero slap sound that you get with something like a standard rubber pad
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
