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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a JG gspec and the tm vsr10 bolt m. After watching wolverine's installation video I started wondering if I should have gone with the bar10 bolt m instead. Is there a difference between the cylinder heads or should it be good to go ahead and install. Thank you
 

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Ditch it and switch to the electronic Wolverine Bolt! If the M is anything like that one in terms of cylinder specs, they have JG and TM options because the threads on the cylinders are different.
 

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Ya, I hardcore recommend the old style electronic BOLT, another $50 or whatever, a small 7.4 battery with one of those red JST plugs, and you're totally set.

I absolutely love mine and Blind Sniper has had probably 25 in his possession over the years, so if you have issues then we're probably the guys to talk to, as we've fixed issues that Wolverine didn't know about.

Also, I've made some replacement/upgrade parts for the BOLT like this little air fitting with a Delrin glide ring, so it doesn't chew up your cylinder.
It aided in FPS consistency somehow, improved bolt pull, and has made it so a cylinder will actually last forever, even aluminum ones.
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I'm curious as to what the advantages is of the Bolt M vs. the standard Bolt E? Purely mechanical is more appealing to me as I don't need to worry about charging up another battery (on top of the dozens of camera batteries and portable chargers).
 

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No batteries is the NUMBER ONE excuse for a bolt M. I think people get it because it allows you to be “hpa” for cheaper. I put “hpa” in quotation marks because while you now have a sniper rifle with the ability to be powered with an air tank and reg; you still have sears. You just took your spring sniper rifle and added an air source to it for no reason really. The whole point I went hpa in my vsr was to avoid having sears.

Back to the battery. Sorry not sorry but it’s practically no inconvenience at all. Yes there is a battery. It’s NOT a big ass aeg battery that will die. It’s tiny af, and it takes months to die. You can leave it plugged it for a long time and it won’t die because the e bolt has no fcu. If it dies…recharge the battery. Dampness was never an issue for me. The battery can also be stored many places, most common being in the butt of the stock. Don’t fall into a pond, and you’ll be okay. Even if you do it should still work lol.

Moving forward, the e bolt allows more customization, you can relocate the trigger, add a secondary trigger, and use any trigger blade that you can fit inside of the vsr trigger box. The e bolt can have a much shorter bolt pull, straight pull mod and they are much easier to make damn near silent. This is because it’s a pneumatic engine, which is a puff of air. No piston. No slap.

You can mount and route the air line many ways. Internally, externally, upgrade the fitting…I could go on and on. I get why people want a mechanical engine. But for the bolt, the electronic rules all. Opinion based so take all of that as you wish!! 🍻
 

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The BOLT old style is a easier to cock, more air efficient, possibly quieter, has the ability for a really short pull, has the ability to make it auto retract, sounds cooler than BOLT M, has a nice clicky trigger, can be put in about any gun if you want to (see my VSR-SS), and seems to have less reliability issues than the M, throughout my 3-4 years with a used engine and a good deal of experience from other people.

The M is alright, but if you want a mechanical engine I'd just get the Mancraft SDiK as it costs less and is made of longer lasting material, instead of having aluminum at wear points.

The disadvantage to the M is that is HAS to have the old 45° trigger, which if you're coming from a T10, T11, or SSG10 that's another $30 you have to spend for a piece of garbage essentially, without a nice pull even.

As for the battery argument which applies to all engines, they last are less of a hassle than people think, as they can sit in a BOLT or Reaper electro mechanical for months without dying, and you can easily get 10K plus shots.
In the rest of the HPA market I'd have to agree that the battery thing is annoying when trying to store it in a pistol grip, and they can't be left there for more than a day as the Fire Control Unit drains the battery while not in use. Still, this only applies to semi auto engines excluding the mechanical ones and the Reaper electro mechanical, but full auto and better features certainly do come at a cost, the small cost of using a battery.
 

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The bolt m is more appealing because I operate in very damp conditions, so I generally try to avoid batteries when I can
Unless you jump into ponds and swim with your rifle, I doubt it will be a problem. I have never had a problem and I play in the rain constantly. if you are worried then a little silicon goo and di-electric grease or marine heat shrink will fix that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Those are all pretty good points. Since I have the bolt m on order I'll run with that for a bit. I did not realize the bolt didn't have an FCU. I may switch out to the E bolt later on and sell off the M. Thanks for your guy's input
 
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